DMH

@kgg thanks for the advice on thread options.

@Constabulary thanks for the advice. I will check all those options. I really appreciate the jeans thread brand suggestions.

@nylonRigging the US I'm going to be working on is chainstitch, my first, it should be another learning experience. I like that video you sent. A feed of the arm chainstitch machine is on my wishlist. Even a used Juki is close to 2K and a vintage Union Special is over 3K, but I will definitely be adding one to my workshop. Along with a old school keyhole style buttonhole machine. Lots of old machines to choose from in CA, but the shipping alone to FL can get pricey.

I think the issue was the thread I was using on the left needle. I changed it to another tex 80 cotton poly fill and had no issues. To make sure I switched back to the all poly and the thread immediately started again. To make sure I switched back to the cotton/poly gave it a few passes and even a heavier denim with multiple layers and no issues at all. I have 4 rolls of this tex 80 poly in 2 colors, but hopefully it won't go to waste. When I get started on my waistband setup on my double needle Union Special, I'll start with #21 size needles and hopefully I will get some use out of this poly thread. No more rolls of thread from Canada regardless of the low price.

@AlZilla you're correct the manual does mention the right hand twist thread. I read it and didn't know much about it and I have to admit I disregarded the importance of it, but I'm learning that lesson now the hard way.

@nejcek74 @nylonRigging I will consider a #22 needle. I recently changed to #20 in anticipation of using tex80 thread. I have another topic on leatherworker.net with all the issues I had retiming the machine to work with the bigger size needle. I will look at the spacing between needle and hook on both to make sure they are consistent. All of these little trials will make me better at this. I would rather learn to do it myself than rely on a overpriced mechanic to do it for me.

@councilman24@nylonRigging thanks for the advice on the thread quality. The right needle is using tex 80 cotton polyester core thread from Wawak. The left was cheaper brand thread from Kava. I agree the cotton/poly thread is better quality and I didn't take that into consideration. The cost of good thread is out of control and the cheaper options are just not worth it. There is definitely a difference between a $9 roll of thread and a $28 roll of thread. If I'm ever going to be a small batch denim workshop I have to keep all of this in mind. This is a lesson learned.

@dikman that's one of the possible causes that ChatGPT mentioned may be the issue.

@nylonRigging thanks for the information. Is this an issue with all double needle machines or just the Singers and their clones. I have a double needle Union Special that's going to be my next addition to my workshop once I get this 112w working properly and consistent. But that was going to be setup as a waistband machine. Maybe Juki has a double needle without this flaw. I really appreciate the knowledge, most people would of kept that to themselves or may not have been aware of it. I can find a way to use that flaw to my advantage. I'm thinking of just using a different thread and color for the left side and make it a signature of my jeans and jackets. My next step was to use a seam folder with this machine, but that may be to ambitious. Maybe one day I can make you a pair. Thanks again for the help.

I'm using tex 80 thread with #20 needle. I've adjusted the top tension I also replaced the needle as soon at it happened, but same result on that left needle I added a video I just took, but of course it worked perfectly when I recorded I'm starting to think it may be the bobbin. That's the only most recent change I can think of. In my other post when I was timing machine you will see I got everything dialed in without any issues until now. Left skip stitch.mp4

I need help figuring out why the thread keeps snagging and stitches are skipping on one of my needles. Both sides have the same weight thread and needle size, but the left keeps balling up the thread and skipping stitches. I've adjusted the tension multiple times, but it's not getting better.

I think you're right, it makes me wonder what other pieces are missing. It shouldn't be this difficult to get the presser bar to lift using the knee lifter. I need to find an exploded view of the presser bar to the knee lifter connection. I'm assuming the previous owner did not use the knee lifter and it didn't matter. Or this may be the reason they were selling the machine. Video Project 5.mp4

I was able to get the knee lifter replaced and I installed it to now engage the lifting rod. But as you can see in the video, it lifts the rod but still doesn't lift the presser bar. @Constabulary mentioned that I may be missing a part (#224413) that connects to the rod. I tried locating a visual or video that shows the connection, but was unsuccessful. If you can offer any advice on installing that part or a way I can get this to work, I would greatly appreciate it. Knee lifter not engaging.mp4

I'm going still do some fine tuning to make sure different stitch lengths sew properly. I feel like this machine can't change from 5 per inch. I'm also feeling some stiffness in the wheel when I move it manually. Overall it's much better than when I started.

This is 4 layers of 14 oz: 4 Layers 14 oz front.mp4 4 Layers 14 oz back.mp4