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Bingo

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Posts posted by Bingo

  5. Posted · Edited by Bingo · Report reply

    Two more holsters...the OWB was for someone in Pittsburgh.

    I also have a question: how do you all attach the belt loops for IWBs? I cut out two strips of leather - for the loops - and then drilled through the holster and the loops. Then I stitched the two together. It holds up, but I think there could be a better way.

    Thanks all. :)

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  7. Posted · Edited by Bingo · Report reply

    My thought on this is number one.. get the glue on as much surface as possible.. but to do that you really need to know how far to go.. and then you might as well stitch first. Second wouldn't it also allow for a tighter fit if you force in after stitching? You can just look at the old holster and figure out where to stitch to be closer? Meaning look at how far out from the guns shape you put the stitching and tighten it up? Not sure how everyone else does it.. but just things that went through my head on the subject.

    The way I glue is I set the gun on top of the inside piece of leather (for a pancake holster). Then I outline the gun with a pencil and just basically glue in the outer areas, leaving a space of about an inch (could probably go smaller) between the gun line and the glue.

    I figure without the constraints of the stitching, I can mold the leather perfectly over the gun, and have a tighter, more defined mold. Then I can drill the holes and stitch as close to the gun as possible. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the closer you can stitch to the gun, the more durable the mold will be and the tighter the leather will hold the gun. It'll also look aesthetically pleasing as it'll follow the mold outline perfectly (or as near perfect as I can do it).

    I hope that makes sense.

    I would suggest that you get you leather wet and form it to the gun before you sew it. This way you can let you leather dry out completely before you stitch it. Use Masters Leather Cement and you won't have any trouble with the glue not holding. If you sew you holster closed before you form it, then you are only guessing at how much leather you need to fold over. It in my experiece it far easier to make a holster or a knife sheathe to fit well if you know exactly where you need to be. Sure you can force something down in it, if you have enough stretch in you leather. But what if you don't? Leather will only stretch so far. Form it before you sew it. Another suggestion is to use an awl to hand stitch it together if you don't have a sewing machine. Drilling those holes out doesn't allow the holes to close up around the thread like awl holes will. Thats my 2 cents worth.

    Ross Brunk

    www.nrcowboygear.com

    How much space do you leave between the glue and the gun?

    Thanks, all, for the responses.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Does anyone do this? The first two holsters I made, I stitched then molded. I'd like to mold it first so that I can stitch along the lines of the gun more accurately, and get the stitching as close to the gun as possible. I use Beacon 527 glue, and it says it's waterproof, so I'm thinking the glue should hold. I'm wondering what the experts here think.

    I also wonder if it'll be more difficult for me to make thread holes, as I use a drill press. I guess I could just raise the leather up to the drill bit?

    Thanks.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Nice looking holster. After glueing, I use a holster press for my initial forming. I press the dry leather around the pistol and draw out my stitch lines. Once the stirch lines are drawn out, I flatten then stitch the holster. One I've finished the stitching, I wet the leahter and do my wet molding.

    Randy

    Thank you for the tip. I was wondering if I should form before stitching. I just wonder if I'd be able to get the gun into the dry leather - it was pretty tight even after it got wet (haha, that sounds wrong). Also, short of a holster press, is there any other way to form it?

  12. Posted · Edited by Bingo · Report reply

    Thanks for the comments, everyone. :)

    I burnished the edges and I'm impressed how a little gum tragacanth and a plastic boning tool can make the edges so smooth. I'm going to put the 'tan-kote' on tomorrow to finish it up.

    This stuff is fun. I'm already working on my next holster (in the drawing stages): another OWB pancake holster for a S&W 65.

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  13. Posted · Report reply

    Very nice first attempt. Good basic design. Nice forming work.

    You have already commented on the belt slots, so no more needs to be said on that. Just about every one involves some learning and experience always results in improvements.

    Thumbs up!

    Thank you for the compliments.

    I worked on a 92 holster last night too....heh...great minds.

    Good work on the first holster. What weight leather did you use? Hand stitched?

    7-8oz shoulder. Hand stitched. I used a drill for the holes, but I'm thinking one of those 4-prong punches would be easier except for around curves where I'd need a single punch. It took me 8-10 tries to find the right sized drill bit...settled on something right around 1/10"...the thread was thicker than I thought.

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