ginny

wiz, this confirms my 'fears'. i did the same for mine, (it is the exact same dimensions as yours btw, little over 11" long and 1/8" thick) and my arch is significantly greater. when measuring from the bottom to the top of the metal, (including the 1/8" thickness) it measures 1/2", and if measured to under the metal, 3/8" (obviously this makes sense as it is simply 1/8" less, or the width of the bar). i am off to charleston sc for the weekend, to visit with family, but i will be online if i can, and will def. check in on sunday night. thanks for this WONDERFUL thread, all the replies and this great website, leatherworker.net.

ok, so one person has objected to the bending of the spring... however, others of you have suggested that after looking at their machine, their spring isnt as curved. the reason i feel that the spring may be too far bent is that the presser foot is very heavy... making foot markings (even when not sewing, just dropping the foot down) even in its lightest setting. so it appears that the spring is pushing the foot mechanism down too hard, because of the curvature. i'll re-post the picture too, maybe some folks can take a look and compare it to theirs...

Trox and Wiz, thanks for your input. i havent gotten to play with the machine yesterday or today... but will be messing with it tomorrow, so should have some more feedback. as for the instruction manual, i have: 1. adler 30: manual for mechanics 2. instruction manual for singer 29-4 3. instruction manual for 29k70 i will def. look into a new spring, and possibly a new feeding mechanism. will let you know how tomorrows 'experimenting' goes! thanks! keep the ideas coming! i am SURE this thread will be useful to others down the road too, so im happy to keep the discussion going on behalf of ALL 30-1 users!

Wiz, i am actually going to see if i can get someone who knows steel/cast iron? to bend it back straight.... or straighter... i have experimented both with and without the leather spacer... i think that fixing the spring will eliminate the need for the spacer, but we will see. unfortunately, flipping it over kinda just takes it from one extreme to the other, but i really think there is a happy medium somewhere!! i am still having difficulty getting the tension right on the thread. i have the bobbin tension set as tight as i can. i have loosened the top tension as much as possible, even to the point of just taking the spring off. i still have 'tight upper tension' according to the example images in the instruction manual. any thoughts about this?

ok, flipped over the spring... and have some 'jerry rigging' going, but sucessful! i am getting longer stitches (i think because the foot isnt pressing down so hard, it can advance properly)... and so far so good. ultimately, the patcher isnt the solution to my stitching needs, but it will keep me going for now... until i get my cobra from steve!! and, a quick plug for steve, he called me today to check in on the adler. though i have promised to buying his machine, he has not received a penny from me, yet took the time to call and check in on my used adler, and offer any support he could. thanks steve! and thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me with this machine! i am more grateful than you will ever know! -ginny

anyone have any thoughts on the rear spring?? see picture/comment about 3 posts ago. can i 'flip' it over and use it the other way to bend it back? or is it supposed to be that curved to begin with? thanks!

so i took the leaf spring off the back, and noticed that it has a pretty significant curve to it. is that normal, or has it 'warped' over time?

wiz, thanks for your confirmations here... you mention the "You set the pressor foot tension with the thumbscrew in the middle of the leaf spring" which # is that, or did i even give it a #? any resources for parts (websites or whatnot) that i should try? i do have a shop kinda near me that works on commercial/industrial machines so i will call them too, but i dont think i want to pay what they are going to ask... id rather do it myself if possible. thanks again! you ALL are a blessing and a Godsend!!

ok, its time for parts quiz time!! put your thinking caps on, and NO GUESSES! please add/correct anything i have wrong/missing.... 1. Thumb Screw - locks/loostens the foot (swings 360 degrees) 2. Tension Plates - FOR DARNING?? 3. Tension Plates (upper) - using this one, knob adjusts tension on upper thread 4. Take up lever adjustment 5. Presser foot drop down 6. Stitch length regulator - the lower the bracket, the longer the stitch? (at lowest setting now, still getting 10-12 stitches per inch... too tight!) 7. Leather 'washer' over 'puck' - unsure of why this is here, but machine will not work without it. 'puck' doesnt raise enough without it to reach the bar to move the foot 8. Wing nut - adjusts the lift of the foot? 9. ??? does this adjust the pressure of the foot onto the material? (i am getting pressure foot marks on the material, its pushing down too hard) THANKS!!!

WE HAVE STITCHES!!!!!!!!!! apparently clockwise on the wheel works better ok, so the foot isnt traveling very far on the uptake... thus, not advancing the material... i know that the stitch regulator bracket can be changed... improving how much the foot swings forward/back (decreasing stitches per inch) but what controls how high the foot comes up to clear the material in order to allow for that swing forward/back?? also, does the machine stitch in reverse (ie turn the wheel the other way) or, do you just utilize the 360 degree rotating foot to back-tack? THANK YOU TO ALL!!!

ok, first issue. any suggestions on seized/stuck screws? trying to remove the first two screws... per the instructions: "parts can be examined or removed from the rack box by taking out the two screws (f) the cover plate" seems two screws (f) are stttuuuuucckkkk.... i have started in with the wd-40...

thanks Knut! i will start working on it. i take stuff apart all the time, im not intimidated or anything, just didnt know if thats what i was SUPPOSED to do (i just imagined the sewing machine in parts all over the living room, when someone walks in and says.. 'didnt you just know to turn that screw there 1/2 turn?') lol lastly, if i need the shuttle to be coming forward sooner, i ASSUME i move it one tooth clockwise (if i were looking at the arm from underneath)

ok, here is the the position of the wheel. i have been rotating counter clockwise...

ok, so i dont think the timing of the shuttle is correct. how do i correct this? per the instructions i have, i can remove parts from the rack box... ultimately taking out and repositioning the shuttle carrier. is this the correct way to adjust the shuttle, or is there another way? in addition, there is mention of adjusting the shuttle driver by way of the eccentric pin... is this relevant as well? in addition to adjusting the shuttle, do i need to adjust the needle bar lift?

in addition... here is a closeup picture of the needle...