Hyde

Here's a better shot illustrating no problems with color and highlighting the stiching A larger pic of the finished product

Took the plunge, had nothing to loose... and it paid off!!!! I WON'T be redoing this piece as there's no longer a need (the stain took and looks great!) -but WILL be trying my hand at dipping in vinagaroon for my next black project. I want to say "Thanks" to everyone who provided insight, info, and words of encouragement. It's truely appreciated... Now for the (LONG overdue) pics- note: the fluroscent lighting in my workshop (where all these photos were taken) is very 'white', which aid's in highlighting the problem. In normal (warm) lighting, it was evident there was a problem with the finish, but not to the degree shown. The first couple pics are of my initial color, buff, and 1 coat of resolene. Color is USMC Black, 3 coats laid by hand (not sprayer). I buffed the residue between each coat there was NO sign of mishap before I sprayed 1 light coat of resolene (full strength) with my airbrush. Upon the topcoat drying (24hrs) the problem surfaced. Left Side- Before (light makes this look a lot worse than what it was) Top- Before (highlights the problem area well) After NF oiling on top of resolene (the oil penetrated on it's own but didn't even out any color) See next post for the finished product. Ended up redying, applying NF oil (let sit for 24hrs), another coat of dye, more NF oil (let sit for 24hrs), and yet more dye (evenly applied by airbrush), final buff, light coat of resolene (airbrush), and Kiwi Neutral shoe polish (which DID remove the tack!!!)

Thanks for everyone's input... the drama continues. As suggested, I applied NF and let it sit for 24hrs. As suspected- it DIDN'T even out my color/blotchy issue (that would've been too easy). I ended up taking some pic's (before and after) and will post as soon as I can get around resizing... plus the flash really washed out the richness of the color (makes it look horrible... but actually highlights all the issues very well). So... on to the next step- RE-DYE. Interestingly... the NF seemingly allowed the spirit dye to penetrate through the resolene (is this even possible?)... so much so that it nearly corrected the problem with one application (wiping- no spraying)! I'll admit- I was totally surprised by this outcome and immediately grabbed a blow-dryer to lightly warm the leather and aid in cure time. After a light buff, another coat was applied in effort to achieve 100% opaque (it is now evident I need to dip all black pieces in the future- hello vinegaroon). While the coverage looks good, I've starting seeing another issue- the leather seeming isn't taking the dye evenly everywhere (albiet so slightly). After another light warming and buff, my suspicions were confirmed (again- ever so slight). So... on to my LAST attempt before scrapping and starting over (yes- if it comes to that, it will be dipped). I applied (yet another) light coat of NF and am in the process of waiting (another) 24hrs before attempting to apply (yet again...) hopefully an even coat of USMC spirit dye. Here's my questions: - What (exactly) did the NF do to allow dye to penetrate through it? I mean - I use resolene as a resist (for antique) all the time! Is it becase the antique I use is the ecoflo gel? - Any opinions on if I should spray the final coat of black? All I want now is even tone... and it continues to amaze me how even I can get with the airbrush. Assuming the above works- I still plan to airbrush resolene over the final coat. Thoughts?

I spray everything (spirit dyes, sealer) with an airbrush (and a respirator, of course!). Now I'm no expert, and I don't have ten's of years doing this craft, however, I've had exceptional results spraying resolene (uncut). Sure, it gives the item a sheen- somewhere between satin and semi-gloss (IMO- any more gloss than that and your applying the product too thick). Also leaves a slight tacky feeling (that WILL permenantly leave a finger print if handled too soon). You may have read, and I've experienced, about a white milky-ness on the leather. As stated elsewhere- it DOES dry clear, however, I attribute that to too heavy of an application. Finally- I have witnessed the shine dulls down with use and time. I like the idea resolene provides... sealing (both color and wealtherproofing). I can live with the glossiness. With that said- I am currently dealing with an issue that surfaced AFTER the resolene was sprayed but it may just be amplifying an underlying problem (still not sure). I'm trying to work through it and will continue to use it (although may try dipping in vinagaroon in the VERY near future). I recall reading somewhere on this forum that the Prevail sprayer was NOT the best for shooting sealer. Think it had to do with the fact that there's no control over the mist pattern... ?

Thanks Mike- didn't know that (NF going through resolene)... I have plenty and will definitely consider (btw- I typically lightly oil and let sit for at least 24hrs BEFORE staining- not sure if I should've oiled again AFTER staining?). As for vinegaroon- I really wanted to make some and dip these pieces but a.) time was of the essence and b.) thought I'd be rushing it, having not 'experimented' with it on a smaller project (i.e. knife sheath). In hindsight- guess I'm conducting an experiement anyways (go figure!). The vinegaroon really does looks nice on a lot of rig's I've seen on this board. I'm still planning on making some and may go this route if I have to re-tool/stitch the seat- we'll see. Thanks again for the suggestion!

BUMP... anyone? After thinking long and hard about this, I may just reapply USMC Black (OVER the resolene) to see if it'll cover the spots, let it dry, buff, and re-seal. I fear without feedback and/or direction from you all that I've accepted the fact I may not be able to save this piece (which is a shame). While I haven't really contributed to this forum much (not much to offer due to lack of experience), I've gained a lot of knowledge and saved a lot of time/money by steering clear of pitfalls that I'm certain I would've encountered through trial, error, and tribulation. I value any thoughts anyone may have on this as well as suggestions on how to move forward. And in any case- I'll update this post with the results of my actions (will also take/post Before and After pics). Thanks again...

Sorry - no pic's (yet- can provide if needed)... but I have a MAJOR issue going on that I'm looking for input/suggestions on how to correct. I tooled, punched, (lightly) water-formed, stained, and hand-sewed a custom motorcycle seat (approx 80hrs so far). Stain used was USMC Black (Fiebings), and while typically airbrushed, was applied with a dauber (I seem to get a richer looking black this way). Stain and buff was complete before stitching (note: no blemishes in any peice at this point). Ater sewing was complete, I top-coated with Fiebings Acrylic Resolene. This WAS sprayed, and turned out exceptional (as it has on other items in the past) with one major exception- it looks as if the resolene has caused the dye to 'spot' (for lack of a better term) under the top coat. I guess it looks more like a 'halo' than a spot- with the center being the same density/color as the rest of the piece, but surrounded by a dilluted (slightly less intense) color 'ring'. There's a half dozen or so ranging from 1/4" to 3/4" in diameter in very OBVIOUS places. I guess it's possible water vapor may (from my compressor) may be to blame but would think the entire peice would finish like this? Not to metion I spray in a swiping/fan pattern (constantly moving)- not just in one area? While a 'light coat' is hard to describe- it didn't haze over or 'milk' up as would be typically associated to a 'heavy' coat. I'm stumped- although I haven't been doing this for years, I've never seen (or heard of) this before!?!? Is it even possible for the top coat to have an affect on a dried/buffed peice? Please note that none of the finishes were 'forced' dry. So, as a last ditch effort, I'm in recovery mode- trying to save the seat as I don't want to have to start over when I'm on the last step. The entire piece is solid black, which I'm hoping will work to my advantage. I've searched the forum (and elsewhere) to no avail. I think attempting to strip anything will cause more harm than good so I'm curios if dying OVER the existing light coat of resolene is an option? If so- I'd spray the entire piece (black), re-buff, and re-top coat (spray). Any and all suggestions welcome and appreciated!!!