DepME

Thank you gentlemen. I took the advise of airbrushing the dye. It worked great.

After much experimenting, I was getting good results with Eco-Flo dyes but I recently switch to Fiebing dyes, mainly because the alcohol-based dyes seem to penetrate the leather better, rather than laying on top of the leather, like the water-based dyes seem to do. Now I have to deal with other issues. I still haven't worked out the issue of the dyes seeming to be so dark (especially after oiling). Even the light brown turns very dark. So dark in fact, that antiquing doesn't bring out much detail but besides that, my biggest issue is the unevenness that occurs. Where the leather has been worked, the dye isn't penetrating the leather as well. What I ended up with is a photo negative affect. The leather is dark where it hasn't been worked and lighter where it has been worked. The depressed areas (where the antiquing should be catching) end up several shades lighter than unworked areas areas). Applying a block, before the dye seems to help but I'm concerned the dye won't be penetrating the leather. Anyway, I'm open to suggestions.

Coming from a noob... I use Eco products and have been happy with them. Why? Because that is what I started with and I haven't had a problem (except for my noob inexperience issues) with them. I think '50 years leather' hit the nail on the head. It's a question of preferences. It's like when I use to paint show cars. I used product X because that's what my instructor used, so that's what he taught. Later, I got caught up in the 'product Y is so much better' claim and that only caused me worry and time lost on learning a new product. In the end, I went back to product X. The end result being, both paints systems produced a great looking end results. Personally, I think leatherwork is probably the same. I laughed when I read your comment about dragging leather around to make it look old. 40 years ago, I did the same thing with coveralls and welding leathers, when I worked in the shipyards.

The reading I have done recently is that a number of people oil their leather after dyeing but prior to applying a finish. I can see an advantage to that and thought I might apply a light coat of neatfoot to some belts I am doing. The two questions that come to mind though is: 1) Will it make my belt leather to soft and stretchy? 2) Will the oil transfer from the belt on to clothing. If it makes a difference, I usually use a resist before applying antiquing. Aussie Leather Conditioner is used as a finish. The inside of the belt is left untreated except for some gum tragacanth.

You know the saying Eric, "Good minds think alike."

You might take a look at this threading link. I haven't read the entire article but I use procedure #2 when I thread my needle. I'm new at this so I certainly don't know if there are better ways but this is the way that is taught in "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" by Al Stohlman.

Thanks. I sure appreciate the input

Okay Kate. Thanks a lot. Dennis

Well, I did my first wet forming (or whatever the correct term is). After the leather dried, tool marks were visible on the leather. I'm I stuck with these marks or is there some way to remove them? BTW, in the pic you are looking at half my work bench. Welcome to leatherworking and 5th wheel living

Howdy I brand new at this leather stuff and have just progressed to a point where I can hand stitch a straight line and burnish an edge. Forget about trying to stamp, carve or dye anything. I am looking for some instruction and have looked at the work that Paul Burnett does. There is no doubt he knows his carving. Paul's instruction course on Stamping looks interesting but I would like to make contact with someone that has reviewed or better yet, used the instruction. Input on material covered, completeness, clarity of instruction, and etc. are what I am interested in. Pluses and minues are all welcome. I'm really looking for an honest appraisal so if you feel more comfortable handling it in a PM, that's fine with me.