dominic

Mike, I have another couple of questions: 1. Is there any way to distinguish at home if my jacket is top coated with natural resins, acrylics or polyurethanes? 2. Which are the main components of the Bag-Kote? 3. Should I mix Bag-Kote with distilled water or alcohol and what ratio of mix? 4. Should I slightly dampen the leather before applying the Bag-Kote with a dauber? Dominic

Hello to all members here, From all the cleaning and rubbing on my leather jacket by River Island the finish has come off (only on the back of the jacket), and I want to bring back its original shine and water protection. For more details on the jacket by River Island please have a look at the link below: http://www.riverisland.com/Online/men/coats--jackets/leather--non-leather-jackets/light-brown-leather-jacket--258335 So my questions are as follows: 1. Will finishing it with Fiebings Resolene (acrylic finish) mixed with distilled water at 50:50 ratio cure this? 2. Will finishing it with Fiebings Tan-Kote (resin finish) mixed with distilled water at a 80:20 ratio or for a little less gloss 60:40 cure this? 3. Will finishing it with Fiebings Tan-Kote (resin finish) mixed with denatured alcohol at a 80:20 ratio or for a little less gloss 60:40 cure this? 4. And overall... what kind of top finish do leather garments by River Island (or other similar leather clothing Companies) generally nowadays have? Any suggestion would be helpful. Many thanks. Dominic

I agree, hand stiching the cuffs back using the same holes is the best technique! Alas, the trickiest part for me is figuring out how to re-assemble the lining to the straight sleeves 'without cuffs' by machine. I can do it manually, but it lacks a neat and professional look. I suspect there must be a technique that must be learned...any help would be appreciated. Dominic

A big hi to everyone on this forum, I collect and sell vintage leather clothing (mostly leather jackets and coats). Does anyone have the secret of professionally shortening sleeves from the bottom on fully lined leather jackets/coats? Any instructions, especially with pictures/drawings, would be greatly appreciated. I've searched this forum, and other places, didn't find anything specific about this type of leather clothing alteration. There were some videos on the web, but unfortunately no drawings/sketches. Many thanks Dominic

Thank you so much, you are always very precise and informative in your responses. However, I've found a big second hand industrial sewing machine dealer here in Italy. Here's the link to his website in English: http://www.foggiato.it/en/ Are there any particular sewing machine that you think could potentially suit my needs? Could you indicate the brand and model of the machine pls? I'd appreciate any suggestions and recommendations. Thanks. Dominic

I don't want to abuse of your kindness, but have another couple of questions for both you Amuckart and Trox: 1. Could I convert a modern industrial sewing machine such as Seiko TE-6, Pfaff 335, Pfaff 345, Aldler 205 from electric to hand crank? Would that be feasible with all modern industrial sewing machines? I would love to have the speed control to work on very small areas of the garment at a time with extreme accuracy and precision. 2. Which industrial sewing machines needle size is equivalent to a domestic sewing machines needle size 100/16 or 110/18? Do all the above mentioned industrial sewing machines take fine needles as well? Many thanks Dominic

Thanks Amuckart. You were a wonderful interpreter of my thought. I will treasure your advices! Thank you again. Dominic

Amuckart, thanks a lot for these very useful advices! Seiko TE-6 sewing machine with 10mm clearance under presser foot by knee and flat-bed attachment seems perfect for my needs. However, I have another question and was wondering if you or someone else could help me. Here's the story: I am looking at buying an Adler 1048-7S from a guy locally. The machine is refurbished. Everything appears to be in working order. I've searched this forum, and other places, didn't find anything specific about it, could you fill me in on this type of machine? What would be a fair price on it? The guy wants 1060 EUR (about 1459 USD) just for the head without the motor and table. Will it work for hems, cuffs and arm holes? Thanks Dominic

A big hi to everyone on this forum, this is my first post. I'm a new member here, however, I've been reading this forum for a while and finally decided to officially join today. It's a very nice community! I collect and sell vintage leather clothing (mostly leather coats, jackets, vests and military peacoats). I just want to alter hems, cuffs, arm holes and nothing else. I don't want to use leather point needles to not damage the leather and want to use regular point needles size 16/100 or 18/110 instead. Also I want a clearance under presser foot of 8.5-9mm and want to be sure that the presser foot doesn't leave scuff marks or scratches on the leather. What would be the best leather sewing machine for me? From what I have read on this forum, I need a medium-duty, single needle, cylinder arm, walking foot sewing machine like a Singer 153w-102, but it is hard to find here in Italy. An old used Dürkopp Adler sewing machine would be easy to find in Italy. But what model is right for me? I don't want to spend a fortune as I won't use the machine for anything else apart from alteration of hems, cuffs, and arm holes, but also don't want to go "on the cheap" and have nothing but frustration. Thank you in advance for your professional help. Please turn a blind eye to my poor English :-( Dominic