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dominic

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Posts posted by dominic

  1. Posted · Edited by dominic · Report reply

    Dominic, I don't see why you couldn't use either. Don't put the resolene on to thick...I would do it 50/50. The better solution would be Feibings Bag-Kote or Feibings Uassie leather balm. The bag-kote was developed for the mail carriers who used to use the large leather shoulder bag to deliver the mail. Semper-fi Mike

    Mike, I have another couple of questions:

    1. Is there any way to distinguish at home if my jacket is top coated with natural resins, acrylics or polyurethanes?

    2. Which are the main components of the Bag-Kote?

    3. Should I mix Bag-Kote with distilled water or alcohol and what ratio of mix?

    4. Should I slightly dampen the leather before applying the Bag-Kote with a dauber?

    Dominic

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hello to all members here,

    From all the cleaning and rubbing on my leather jacket by River Island the finish has come off (only on the back of the jacket), and I want to bring back its original shine and water protection.

    For more details on the jacket by River Island please have a look at the link below:

    http://www.riverisland.com/Online/men/coats--jackets/leather--non-leather-jackets/light-brown-leather-jacket--258335

    So my questions are as follows:

    1. Will finishing it with Fiebings Resolene (acrylic finish) mixed with distilled water at 50:50 ratio cure this?

    2. Will finishing it with Fiebings Tan-Kote (resin finish) mixed with distilled water at a 80:20 ratio or for a little less gloss 60:40 cure this?

    3. Will finishing it with Fiebings Tan-Kote (resin finish) mixed with denatured alcohol at a 80:20 ratio or for a little less gloss 60:40 cure this?

    4. And overall... what kind of top finish do leather garments by River Island (or other similar leather clothing Companies) generally nowadays have?

    Any suggestion would be helpful. Many thanks.

    Dominic

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I have seen people shorten sleeves on fabric coats, jackets and shirts. Typically, there is a cuff. Remove the cuff carefully so there are no nicks. Observe how the lining was attached. Shorten the sleeve and lining, then put the cuff back on. The problem I see with leather is the old stich marks on the cuff to sleeve joint. Maybe it would be best to hand stich the cuff back on rather than use a machine. Then you can use the same holes and it will look just like the original.

    If there is not a separate piece as a cuff that can be removed, then I would again carefully pick out the stitches. Shorten both sleeve and lining by the same amount and reassemble same as it was originally done.

    Becarefull to keep the same alignment. Don't want the buttons or snaps to be twisted around to different positions. Might look like someone has a broken arm!

    Try looking up sewing alterations on sewing websites. Should be some examples and pictures of how to.

    I agree, hand stiching the cuffs back using the same holes is the best technique!

    Alas, the trickiest part for me is figuring out how to re-assemble the lining to the straight sleeves 'without cuffs' by machine.

    I can do it manually, but it lacks a neat and professional look.

    I suspect there must be a technique that must be learned...any help would be appreciated.

    Dominic

  4. Posted · Report reply

    A big hi to everyone on this forum,

    I collect and sell vintage leather clothing (mostly leather jackets and coats).

    Does anyone have the secret of professionally shortening sleeves from the bottom on fully lined leather jackets/coats?

    Any instructions, especially with pictures/drawings, would be greatly appreciated.

    I've searched this forum, and other places, didn't find anything specific about this type of leather clothing alteration.

    There were some videos on the web, but unfortunately no drawings/sketches.

    Many thanks

    Dominic

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Dominic,

    You could, straight-stitch machines for garment-weight leather do not take a lot of energy to drive, but it would need to be a custom solution and it would be unlikely to work very well. If you want to have a hand-cranked machine you could use a good quality patcher.

    Your best bet for extreme control may be a good servo motor that is properly programmed to allow very low-speed work. A more important factor is relentless practice with the machine.

    It depends on the needles. Industrial sewing needles come in a huge number of different standards. The 100/16 is the metric/singer size, the 134-35 system needles the Pfaff 335 takes are available in sizes that will match the high end of domestic machine needles. According to the 335 brochure on Pfaff's site it takes size 80-100 needles.

    The Seiko TE-6 takes DBx1 needles that are available in metric sizes from 65 up to 160, so you've got no problem with the range there. I don't know what the range of sizes the machine will use is but I doubt you'd have problems with needles in the 80-110 range.

    Thank you so much, you are always very precise and informative in your responses.

    However, I've found a big second hand industrial sewing machine dealer here in Italy.

    Here's the link to his website in English:

    http://www.foggiato.it/en/

    Are there any particular sewing machine that you think could potentially suit my needs? Could you indicate the brand and model of the machine pls?

    I'd appreciate any suggestions and recommendations. Thanks.

    Dominic

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I don't want to abuse of your kindness, but have another couple of questions for both you Amuckart and Trox:

    1. Could I convert a modern industrial sewing machine such as Seiko TE-6, Pfaff 335, Pfaff 345, Aldler 205 from electric to hand crank? Would that be feasible with all modern industrial sewing machines?

    I would love to have the speed control to work on very small areas of the garment at a time with extreme accuracy and precision.

    2. Which industrial sewing machines needle size is equivalent to a domestic sewing machines needle size 100/16 or 110/18? Do all the above mentioned industrial sewing machines take fine needles as well?

    Many thanks

    Dominic

  8. Posted · Edited by dominic · Report reply

    Amuckart, thanks a lot for these very useful advices!

    Seiko TE-6 sewing machine with 10mm clearance under presser foot by knee and flat-bed attachment seems perfect for my needs.

    However, I have another question and was wondering if you or someone else could help me.

    Here's the story:

    I am looking at buying an Adler 1048-7S from a guy locally.

    post-14733-025445600 1320423523_thumb.jp

    The machine is refurbished. Everything appears to be in working order. I've searched this forum, and other places, didn't find anything specific about it, could you fill me in on this type of machine? What would be a fair price on it? The guy wants 1060 EUR (about 1459 USD) just for the head without the motor and table. Will it work for hems, cuffs and arm holes? Thanks

    Dominic

  9. Posted · Report reply

    A big hi to everyone on this forum, this is my first post. I'm a new member here, however, I've been reading this forum for a while and finally decided to officially join today. It's a very nice community!

    I collect and sell vintage leather clothing (mostly leather coats, jackets, vests and military peacoats). I just want to alter hems, cuffs, arm holes and nothing else. I don't want to use leather point needles to not damage the leather and want to use regular point needles size 16/100 or 18/110 instead.

    Also I want a clearance under presser foot of 8.5-9mm and want to be sure that the presser foot doesn't leave scuff marks or scratches on the leather.

    What would be the best leather sewing machine for me?

    From what I have read on this forum, I need a medium-duty, single needle, cylinder arm, walking foot sewing machine like a Singer 153w-102, but it is hard to find here in Italy.

    An old used Dürkopp Adler sewing machine would be easy to find in Italy. But what model is right for me?

    I don't want to spend a fortune as I won't use the machine for anything else apart from alteration of hems, cuffs, and arm holes, but also don't want to go "on the cheap" and have nothing but frustration.

    Thank you in advance for your professional help.

    Please turn a blind eye to my poor English :-(

    Dominic

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