TackCollector

76 is probably year 1976. The white buckstitching is a holdover from the '60s and early '70s. Later ones had brown buckstitching, or none The double skirts are in fashion, so that's favor, value-wise. It's also not real dark brown, which is good. Don't put any oils on it because it will probably turn dark brown again. I'm not western, either. If it's a 16" seat, I'd try for $500-$650. 15" would be worth less. Herford had a dark chocolate 16" model in 1980 that was pretty much the same as this one, except no white buckstiching.

I really don't have any reference books on modern methods, either. I have one British book, Repair Your Own Saddlery and Harness, A Step-by-Step Guide, by Robert H. Steinke. ISBN 0-85131-597-6, 1994. published by J. A, Allen, London. It's probably out of print. It is more of a book that gives the gist of things, not a full tutorial. https://www.bookfinder.com/author/robert-steinke/

This is how Freedman does their webbing. This is a 1996 or 1997 saddle. Freedman saddles were built like a tank back then. There is nothing else like them. I haven't seen any of the newer layered leather ones in person so I can't count on their construction. I'm not a fan of layered leather on cutbacks. The huge flaps are too much acreage to rely on glue alone. And I hate the way that soft sticky leather mars too easily.

The riveted billets were on a point billet, riveted to the tree, right? A "point billet" is traditionally riveted to the tree point. Not all saddles or horses require a point billet. I read somewhere that the purpose of point billets is to anchor the saddle tree point back behind the scapula on a horse with a forward girth groove. Cutback (Lane Fox) saddles have traditionally always had those. Some of the USA made Campbells by Whitman are actually the only cutbacks I've seen that lacked point billets. Many but not all dressage saddles have them. Lovatt & Ricketts and Freedman and perhaps others over 20 years ago started riveting a piece of webbing to the tree points, instead of riveting the leather billets themselves. Then when it comes time to replace the billets, the repair person doesn't have to take much apart. If the webs hang down or stretched far enough with use, the repair person may not even have to drop the panels to remove the old billets and stitch new ones on. This photo is a L&R Louisville cutback saddle made in 2002.

If it's smooth leather, I wipe it down with Lysol disinfectant wipes or any Dollar General or Family Dollar knockoff. I found that really works and the mold doesn't come back. I had tack in storage, I was only in back in town for a day or so, found green hairy mold on stirrups and fenders, and I didn't have time to properly clean it, so I hastily wiped it down with the Lysol wipes that I keep behind the seat. To my amazement, it didn't hurt the leather, strip the color, or do anything undesirable. 18 months later, saddles are still stored in the same place but mold has not returned. I'm not sure what would happen on "new" roughout that is still dry, porous, and rough. But it should be okay on older stuff that had worn a little smooth and has been oiled some.

It looks like an Argentina saddle to me. Cantle cover (see pic for example; this is from CWD) or the other thing I've seen in English saddle repair books is slip a piece of leather underneath there, smooth it out, glue it, and pinch up the seat edges as close together as possible while it's druing. Then take a wax pencil and fill in the gap with wax afterward. I can see where the cap might be faster, lol.

Can anyone suggest what type of rancher saddle that Clint Gibson is? Association tree or what? Or know how to track down the maker?

This is the Circle Y. Bullhide tree, not that Kevlar thing. What do you think is a fair price for it? Tag is 2722-2-0202 on the top line, and 1504 on the second line. Has 28" square double skirt and a rawhide wrapped tree. Circle Y said: The model #2722 was a hardseat roping saddle that was built on a rawhide covered wood tree with a semi-quarter horse bars. The color is regular oil.

http://s889.photobuc...King_RancherRO/ (more pics in that album) That's the saddle. The stamp on the back says Clint Gibson, Big Horn, WY. Big Horn is not far from Sheridan, so I am uncertain whether this was made as an independent or as an employee of Don King's Sheridan shop. I can't find any contact information online for Clint Gibson. I want to sell this saddle, or else sell my Circle Y rancher instead. I get all kinds of Qs from people who want to know what tree is in this, who made it, has it been roped off, etc. Well, it's a 50# saddle and a rawhide covered tree. I am the second owner. The first owner bought it brand new in WY and used it for some trail riding. Does anyone have any idea how to advertise this saddle? I am in PA, and ranch saddles are unknown here. If it's not a cheap Circle Y Flex or High Horse or American, they don't want it here. But I don't know anything about true rancher saddles, their tree types, and what's used for what. I also bought this for trail / training use, and just because I wanted to sit in an old fashioned upright position and not ride a cheap POS, haha. Neither fenders nor leathers have been cut. I am 5'1" and the stirrups are actually a bit long for me, shortened up as far as they go. Does anyone have any ideas about what this model's tree / style of rigging / strengths / purpose / weakness / fair selling price are? I presume this would cost at least $2500 - $3000 new. Am I too far off? Thanks!

Don't use suede unless the customer specifically wants it. Smooth leather is in vogue now, and suede is out of fashion. (I am not a saddle maker, lol. I just dropped in to read.)