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chaosready

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Posts posted by chaosready

  4. Posted · Edited by chaosready · Report reply

    Quite perceptive of you, Big O. Yes, I did have a hell of a time getting that glock into the wet holster as far as did, it literally took all of my strength. I definitely cut that trigger guard stitch line too close. I guess I'll give it another quarter inch (maybe?) of clearance or so next time.

    Thanks for your commentary once again. You've helped out a lot with my previous stuff.

    I made a nice little tool for doing the edges. I just took a short length of oak dowel, put a wood screw through it, cut the head off the screw, and stuck it in the dremel. I burnish first with just water, then go over it again with beeswax. Ends up looking pretty good, especially with black dye. And gets the job done FAST, like in minutes.

    And yeah. My great-grandparents were mountain gorillas :D

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Chaos' I think that you are missing the point. Nobody is knocking your work....it's just an unsafe design. Try it yourself. With the gun in your belt (or holster) back there at 6 o'clock, butt of the gun facing down toward the floor, you must slide your hand between the gun butt and your body to draw the weapon.......the back of your hand will be against your back. Grasp the gun, and as you draw it, you will see that your hand will naturally rotate forward in order to align with a target in front of you. This rotation will cause all kinds of problems ( as I previously explained). Now, try it with the gun butt facing up....sort of toward your left shoulder (for a right handed person) grasp the gun and draw, it comes out just like a strong-side draw.......which it is. Now, stuff that shooter back into your belt line ....it goes in easily............the wrong way, butt down. This is why some feel that it is a good way to carry the gun. It AIN'T. Your customer has either been watching too many movies, is very inexperienced, is a fool.....or a combination of these. Do a little research on SOB holsters ........ they don't come with the butt of the gun facing downward. Again, it ain't you or your work.......it's an inexperienced customer .........and the excitement of your first order ......... been there, done that. Now you may know why I am considered by some to be a grumpy old man .......... i won't build something I don't think is safe. Mike

    No, I didn't miss the point. I understand (after the fact) why it's not a safe idea.

    All I'm asking is, couldn't a [right-handed] customer intending on carrying in this fashion simply order a normal left handed holster from you (perhaps with adjustable cant) and just wear it in the 5:30 position? That's what it basically boils down to.

    But yes, knowing what I know now, I'll not build such a holster if I'm aware the customer wants to use it this way.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    This is my first holster made for a customer. He wanted an IWB for his Baby Eagle compact, in a special configuration. It looks like a left-handed holster, but is actually for a right-handed draw. He wants it to ride in the 5:30 area with a backward cant. He finds this a more comfortable way to draw.

    Holster is equipped with dual belt loops (for 1 7/8" belt) with Pull-The-Dot snaps, with multiple mounting locations for full cant and ride height adjustment. Holster also has skin guard and front sight channel. Inside surface is burnished.

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  10. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the advice guys, y'all are awesome.

    As far as the closed muzzle, I'm thinking that would be a customer option (open or closed muzzle), with disadvantage made known beforehand. I do like the looks though, and it would be ok with proper maintenance.

    Good point about the belt slot being way out there, my thinking with that was the farther apart the belt attachment points, the more stability you'd have. Maybe not though.

    Big O, that upward stitch at the front sight is actually my F-up, I meant to make it straight all the way down. In reality, I molded a front sight channel inside the holster, so no snags to worry about.

    Thanks again you guys, I will proceed with new knowledge.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I just completed this today. Used 4/5 oz tooling leather from Hobby Lobby, best stuff I have access to right now. Used t-nuts to attach the belt snap loops, I like this better than stitching them on, they are easily replaceable if needed.

    I don't have the proper tools really yet, I've been making do with a dremel sander for edge beveling and a cutting bit for stitch grooving. Worked out ok, but I'd like to order the right tools as soon as I have the cash.

    I think it looks pretty good, let me know what you think.

    -Thomas

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  16. Posted · Report reply

    I think the design for the IWB, the way you folded the leather over from the bottom, is just ingenious.

    Thanks.

    Looks like you're using thick waxed nylon thread (like I do - Nyltek), but you're not cutting grooves for your stitches, so they're just sitting there on top of the leather and going every which way. I use an adjustable stitching groover for the stitching around the edges, and a freehand stitching groover for the stitching along the outline of the handgun. They are some VERY inexpensive tools, and are well worth buying and using.

    Ive seen the groovers used in the online tutorials Ive looked at, just haven't gotten around to ordering them yet. I've got a big order of tools and materials in my shopping cart at springfield leather, just waiting til I have the extra cash on hand to get everything.

    On the holster for the Glock 36, there's not enough clearance to get a grip on the pistol while it's holstered. It also doesn't look like there's much of a sight track molded in, which raises the ugly possibility of the front sight snagging on the holster during the draw.

    On the magazine pouch, the belt slots look very narrow, and uneven. I cut mine out freehand with a utility knife to begin with, too, with the same results. I bought a set of round punches, also dirt cheap, and now punch out the top and bottom of the slots with a punch, and then connect-the-dots with an ordinary wood chisel. MUCH more consistent, functional and attractive. You'll want to buy a "poundo" board for this purpose, to keep from dulling your punches and putting holes in things you don't want holes in.

    Yeah, I know the belt slots are ugly. :) Thanks for the wood chisel idea, that helps a LOT.

    Most people find rounded edges more attractive than square corners, and curves more attractive than straight lines.

  17. Posted · Edited by chaosready · Report reply

    Hello, all. Just found this board and I really like it, has a lot of interesting info. I just got into working leather a few months ago. I am mainly motivated by my disappointment with many commercial holsters I've tried to use with my carry pistols. Here are the third and fourth holsters I've created (the first one isn't really worth showing and the second I gave to my bro-in-law for his gun). I've also made a simple little mag pouch.

    Comments and critique welcome!

    Ruger SR9

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    Glock 36

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