beerbeer95648
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Everything posted by beerbeer95648
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3" J-Frame Help
beerbeer95648 replied to beerbeer95648's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks everyone. I plan on starting on a practice run using some Tandy 7/8oz today. I have some HO 8/9oz on the way for the final version. Hoping the 8/9oz is not to heavy for a 3" j-frame, but I needed the residual HO for my commander. Ill try and post when I am done. Thanks again. KC -
3" J-Frame Help
beerbeer95648 replied to beerbeer95648's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks Mike. I agree, I think crossdraw should work a little better for her. I think I will go the route you mentioned and make the pocket deep enough on that side to cover the hammer. I know it was addressed slightly above, I have only made 3 holsters so far and all have been for semi autos with relatively uniform thickness. I assume with a revolver I take measurement at both the cylinder and frame/barrel areas to determine my stitch lines? So my lines around the frame and barrel may be 1/2 inch while at the cylinder the lines may be more like 3/4 inch. -
3" J-Frame Help
beerbeer95648 replied to beerbeer95648's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Understood. I am trying to picture how you could a similar hammer shield with a pancake style. My wife wants the holster to sit as close to her body as possible. -
3" J-Frame Help
beerbeer95648 replied to beerbeer95648's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks for the help guys. The gun is a hammer version. When you mention a hammer guard, are you referring to a thumb brake like in your pictures? If so, do you recommend any snap in particular that will positively release easily? Is this only necessay on a crossdraw due to the cant? -
Just picked up a older 3" model 37 air-weight for my wife to carry. Having never made a holster for a revolver, I had a couple questions: I am talking to her about cross-draw, and am wondering if it is best to have a neutral or raked cant? I have noticed a few revolver specific holsters that come up a bit higher to cover the top of the cylinder. Is there a reason for that? When it comes to measuring the thickness to determine the stitch lines, how does this differ from a semi-auto? Also, I have had a hard time picturing how to install the welts for the rather tall front sight blade. Is there any tips/tricks to making a holster for a female shape? I know that some women can have the gun dig in a bit, and my wife has a relatively short midsection with normal female hips. I know I am asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.