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Thanks guys. Those are the 7th and 8th that I have completed. A couple where abandoned midway. Yeah I don't plan to do many revolvers, but I needed one for myself. The avenger style is pretty comfortable but was a bit of a pain.

A couple new ones. This is the first Avenger style I have tried. I recently picked up an LCR 357 so this was my first attemp at a revolver also. Turned out OK, it was more of a demo to see how my pattern worked out so i kinda rushed the molding. The second is an OWB of my design for a beretta M9A1 for a coworker of mine. He wanted a leather holster but was unable to find one that would work with the Railed M9A1 so he gave me a shot at it. I was gonna try a flat backed style OWB but have been unsuccessful. Hope ya'll like em. LCR 357 Beretta M9A1

quick tip i just learned the hardway about the t-nuts. (i have started to put them between the two pieces on my last three holsters.) make sure that nothing is wrong with the t-nut threads before you put them in and sew it up. test the screw. last night i was installing the belt loops on a holster i had just finished and found out then that the threads in the t-nut were stripped which was causing the screw to not "catch" in th threads. i had to use pliers to squeeze in the opening of the t-nut for the screw to catch. luckily that, along with some red loc-tite, did the job this time.

i like to start my patterns on copy paper. you can actually wrap it around the gun to see where your stitch lines wind up, just remeber to consider the thickness of the leather and also what you plan to use for a sight channel, like a dowel rod, etc. plus it is easy to cut and is cheap. after i have made a holster and the pattern worked out good i will transfer it to something thicker like card stock. cardboad doesnt really work good for keeping its edge. also keep in mind where the mag release is so the sweat shield, if you do one doesnt interfere and pop loose you mag. i also have found that you dont really need to be too conservative with the distance of the stitch lines from the gun. if it is a little tight at first it isnt a problem because the leather will stretch and will fit good in the end. i have found that a little tight is better than a little lose. all this is just from my limited experience on only a handful of holsters. good luck!

really nice holster! i have plans for another spinoff of the occidental for my next holster. each time i find something i can tweek to make it better for my needs.

i recently had the same question about airbrush selection, i ended up getting the harbor freight 2 stage airbrush, probably the one you have. i figured that it wouldnt hurt starting cheap. i am also using it for resolene. i have only sprayed one holster and it worked out great. are you thinning your resolene? i did mine 50/50 with water and i didnt notice it gumming up at all and it sprayed very consistant. how long was it before yours starting having a problems?

thanks for the input color - i used feibling pro oil dye dark brown, i like the color, i think i will try the light brown also. i just got it in the mail. design - of course it is like the occidental design, i figured most holster makers would be able to tell that from just looking at it. i never tried to take credit for the design. and i doubt occidental would really care that i was learning the craft by practicing on a great design they made. plus its not for sale, its for me. i made a few small changes that would better suit me. just getting into holster making all i can really do is try to make something that you like, which is going to be inspirated from whats already out there. i searched in net for 1911 iwb holsters and the main ones that come up are occidental and milt sparks. i mean how many clones of the milt sparks versamax are there out there? what i am really striving for in the end is making a decent holster that fits my needs. this one was just a starting point and has already morphed into something much different than the inspiration. more to come on that in the future. i have found that i do not really like the design. the lower stability wing pokes out of the back of my pants leaving a bit of protrusion. take a look at my #5 i made. it is still kinda the same design but without the lower wing. #6 is going different all together.

yeah i can see where you are coming from with that, about the t-nuts. i doubt if the user will be swapping belt loops ever, plus i will probably use a small drop of blue loctite to keep the screw from backing out on its own. it is only being supplies with the one size. as far as stripping are you talking about the threads of the t-nut stripping, or the t-nut spinning between the layers of leather. the latter is what i am more concerned about. every part of the t-nut between the leather was coated with cement and the prongs on the t-nut are embedded in the leather, so it should move. i think on the next one i will drill small holes in the t-nut so i can stitch it to the front piece of leather as well as have the cement holding it in place. i dont really have any other idea of how to use the snaps for the loops without using a t-nut to secure the male part of the snap to the holster body, and still be able to change loops if needed.

you will need some pretty severe forward cant on the g26 holster, i know because i have a g26, to get a good purchase on the nub of a grip they have. you can cut out the holster pattern from constuction paper, and you can staple it along the stitch line. stick the gun in and see if you have any interference with the rear wing and getting a good grip on the gun. better than wasting time and leather to figure out you can't grip the gun firmly. although i have only made 5 holsters, i have already leaned the hardway to take extra time in the design process even making mockup holster like stated to make sure my design is how i want it. so many things change between 2D patterns and 3D holsters.

for hoslter #5 i made a few changes from the input i received from you guys about my last 1911 iwb holster. here is rev 2. i ran out of snaps so thats why the straps arent mounted yet. Let me know what yall think. changes include: - wider wings where the belt loops are mounted which will give the holster more ability to form to a persons hip. - the t-nuts have been sandwiched between the leather layers for a more professional finish on the back (no exposed t-nuts). - an additional piece af leather is stitched to the back of the belt loop for room for the pants to fit all the way up between the holster and belt loops. - i lowered the troat of the holster 1/4" for "target sights" to more easily fit, i found that out after trying a friends 1911 with target sights. - i stopped using drill bits to make the stitching holes, instal just using an awl - i sparyed the finish with an airbrush which gave a better finish with no stroke marks from a sponge brush. i still need to do a better on the edge finishing. my procedure i used for this was basically after dying the leather i would burnish with bee's wax. and then touchup with dye as needed.

Thanks for the input. I pocked up the deluxe today at harbor freight plus some fitting and a hose. What is best to cut the resplendent with for spraying? I have read a 50/50 mix is good. Do I just use water? I have only applied it straight with sponge, but I didn't like the strokes showing in the finish . That is what has lead me to the airbrush route

I have read pretty much every thread on here about airbrushes and i have decided on the double action gravity feed type. I am looking at the Badger 105 Patriot vs. the Iwata HP-CS. I can get the Badger for $85 or the Iwata for $125. I believe I would have to buy a hose for the badger, but the Iwata comes with a 6ft hose. I will be using it for Oil Stain, Resolene finish, etc. I also may do some automotive type painting with it. Basically I just want to get a good all around airbrush that will last a long time. I want to make the right decision on this the first time around so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

^^ *** I didn't want it too thick since it is IWB.*** I hate auto complete.

It is 6-7oz. I thinned the reinforcement pieces, probably down to 5oz, with my dremel where they overlap the main holsterbody. I didn't want it too thick since its own. It worked out good to save overall thickness.

Yeah all the wing really did was make it hard to get to my wallet. I have been spending much longer on pattern design trying not to waste leather.

It is for stability. I am actually modifying the pattern to remove it. It does help with stability, but with the wide tab loops it isn't a problem. The wing isn't a the most comfortable thing. I also raised and extended the rear tab for the next design.

okay so i finished up this holster. let me know what you think. i have quite a few changes to put into the next one but i think it turned out okay.

thanks for the info, i am still trying to figure out what will work best for me. i purchased on of the coco-bola burnishers and also have tried with a felt polishing pad on my dremel which worked really well. check out my 1911 iwb thread, it still needs improvement but i believe it is 100% better than this xdm. we'll have to see how number five turns out. learning more and more about this art but much more togo.

nice design. only thing i have seen with owb g26 holsters is that they tend to be top heavy due to the layout of the gun and all the weight in the grip. the thing loaded with eleven 147gr is pretty heavy in the grip area. the layout is difficult to get the belt loops high enough for balance and keeping the gun close in but have enough room to grip the gun. these holsters tend to need a good amount of cant to achieve the result. i only give my opinion since a g26 is what i carry 99% of the time. I have tried various owb holster and havent been very happy with any.

also i used the t-nuts to be able to swapout the belt straps for different sizes incase i used a different belt size. maybe i could sandwitch the t-nut between the two pieces of leather and shorten the screw length so it doesnt go past the rear surface of the t-nut. any ideas appreciated.

thanks for the feedback! the belt loops are actually the same size front and back. the pic is at kinda a weird angle which makes the tab look a little bigger on the rear for some reason but they are uniform. i may look into the chicago screws. the chicago screws i have, have large screw heads that will not fit into the snap. good idea about the spacer. dye will be happening tonight. what is the best place for hardware like different chicago screws and snaps. what size chicago screw would be ideal for this.

For my fourth I am trying a 1911 iwb. It is for 1.75 in belt loops. i am waiting on the burnishing tool i ordered to arrive before i finish it up. I am gonna dye it dark brown with oil dye. i also need to get more snaps. I wasted 6 trying to make the loops. Let me know what yall think so far. I'll update when I get it dyed and finish the edges.

what tool/materials do you use for burnishing.

i actually did bevel the edge at the time i was sanding the sides so they are even. i think the mushrooming look to the edge was from me pulling the thread too tight along with the tools i used to do the burnishing and i also think the leather was still a little too damp when i did start to burnish the edge. i am still looking for the right tool to burnish with. the burnishing wheel i got from zack white worked good on the single layer leather but is a little narrow for two layers to fit in it. it is basically just a nylon pulley. i am gonna look around to see if i can find the next size up "pulley" that will work. would it be best to burnish just prior to finish coat after the dye is fully dry? would i then wax the edge may a few drops of water then burnish while the leather is relatively stiff?

Thanks Mike! I guess its time for a new awl. I read in a tutorial somewhere about the drill press but I can see how just the awl will give a cleaner look. So...no more drill press. Probably in the same tutorial I read about pulling the stitches tight, I guess I am pulling too tight. I have read the burnishing tutorial. I need to read it a few more times. The process I have been using is Cutting Stitch lay out Stitching Molding Burnishing Dye Re burnidhing (I am kinda unsure about when to wax the edge.) Thanks for the info on the flat back pancake. Ill try it soon.