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buddy saddle

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Posts posted by buddy saddle


  1. you will have to reduce the size of your picture in order to load it.. As you may know the saddle maker is from clayton new mexico 1890 to 1940's from dan and sebie hutchings book. restoration depends on the condition of the leather, cleaning and oiling should help preserve it.if you replace the wool skin be sure to use the same stitch holes, may want to use linen to be historically correct.replacing saddle strings if the old ones are broke and or missing.

    THANKS,THE CONDITION OF LEATHER IS REALLY GOOD,THE WOOL IS NOT SO GOOD,I JUST WASNT SURE IF I SHOULD REPLACE IT.I REALLY APPRESHATE YOUR REPLY,BUDDY

  2. I JUST BOUGHT A OLD HIGH BACK,I FOUND A LITTLE HISTORY ON IT,NOT MUCH,BUT NOW I AM WONDERING WHAT TO DO WITH IT.IF I CLEAN,OIL,AND PUT NEW WOOL AND STRINGS WILL IT HURT THE VALUE OF IT?I HAVE A SHOP IN GRAHAM TEXAS AND I JUST LIKE OLD SADDLES,THIS ONE WAS $30.00.CAMERA AT SHOP WILL TAKE PICTURES TODAY.THE MAIN THING I WANT TO KNOW IS REPAIR OR LEAVE IT ORIGINAL.BUDDY SADDLE,ANYONE KNOW ABOUT JH DEAM? i can not get picture to load says file to big just has 3 picture?

    well i am discusted,every time i ask you guys a question i NEVER get a ansewer,must be asking dumb questions.

  3. I JUST BOUGHT A OLD HIGH BACK,I FOUND A LITTLE HISTORY ON IT,NOT MUCH,BUT NOW I AM WONDERING WHAT TO DO WITH IT.IF I CLEAN,OIL,AND PUT NEW WOOL AND STRINGS WILL IT HURT THE VALUE OF IT?I HAVE A SHOP IN GRAHAM TEXAS AND I JUST LIKE OLD SADDLES,THIS ONE WAS $30.00.CAMERA AT SHOP WILL TAKE PICTURES TODAY.THE MAIN THING I WANT TO KNOW IS REPAIR OR LEAVE IT ORIGINAL.BUDDY SADDLE,ANYONE KNOW ABOUT JH DEAM? i can not get picture to load says file to big just has 3 picture?


  4. The best reference i use is the Harry Adams manual. This is what is was basically taught from. I agree the Stohlman's are a bit confusing sometimes.

    Sandy

    Sandy where could i get a harry adams manual? Bud

  5. Personally, I don't use a pattern until the end, and then I use an old seat that doesn't necessarily fit; I use it as a guide for the bottom of the seat. I cut the seat out square, and spit it around the horn so it fits better. Put it on the draw down stand. Then I make the slits where the ears will go. Here it is, without the draw down strap on.

    post-5122-065948900 1335757753_thumb.jpg

    Then I start cutting around the swells. Very conservatively. And I mean, very, very, conservative cuts....a little at a time. I get the seat trimmed from the split in the hand hole around the swells and around where the front concho will go.

    post-5122-057780200 1335757926_thumb.jpg

    Pound around the hand hole so it will be marked on the back, so you can cut it out later. Then I let the seat dry. (with the draw down strap on, not like in this picture.

    post-5122-026328100 1335758089_thumb.jpg

    Once it's dry, I get out one of my old seats and use it as a guide for the bottom part of the saddle. My old seats (patterns), most of them don't fit. There's just too many variations in saddles. That's why I stay away from using patterns to cut out seats. Perhaps I use a little extra leather buy cutting out a square seat from the side, but not much. Here is a pic of me using a seat (on a different saddle than those above)

    post-5122-068685300 1335758331_thumb.jpg

    post-5122-018895900 1335758378_thumb.jpg

    Wow, these pictures really suck on the site. Sorry about that :head_hurts_kr:

    Thanks for the info i will try it,Bud

    Buddy, The Al Stohlman saddle making books are a good resource. It is more complicated to just show you with pictures. There is alot of measuring to do. Each tree is different. There are many saddle making dvds also.

    Good luck

    Sandy Robbins

    I have the al stoleman books,guess I am having trouble understanding them,i will try harder Thanks Bud

  6. Hi guys and Gals,I have made two saddles,I am having a great deal of trouble making seat pattern,can someone tell me how?Some pictures would be great,Trouble with swell cover also,i really need some help,Buddy Saddle


  7. I have a side of 5/6 oz. veg tan, actually labelled as 2.2-2.4mm, that I acquired many years ago. I am just now learning leather working and plan to make 1-1/2" belts as well as gun belts and holsters. Since my leather is a little thin for these projects I was thinking of doubling it up, gluing flesh side to flesh side. I have been reading about folks making belts with a thin veg tan liner to achieve a desired thickness and giving a smooth inner belt. I just wanted to ask if there was any downside to my joining 5/6 oz. to make a thick belt or holster before I started cutting up my side. Thanks!

    I DO IT ALL THE TIME WORKS GREAT BUDDY SADDLE.

  8. Buddy,

    It's a unlikely you'll find a complete tooling pattern that will fit your next saddle because there is no standard for sizes. Fenders, seats, jockeys, etc vary in size and shape with every maker, so you will most likely need to modify anything you might find. Old sytle tooling patterns will probably be even harder to find. If you can find an old saddle with a pattern you like, you can take a rubbing of the pattern and then modify it to suit your needs. That would be a really good place to start. You could look in old saddle catalogs also and copy one you like. Another thought is that if you are just starting out, you may want to practice your tooling for awhile before committing yourself to such a large and difficult tooling project. Meanwhile someone on the forum here may have what you need....you never know. Good luck with the project...we would all like to see what you come up with!

    Bobby

    Thanks i have made a couple of rubbings,I have been tooling for a while,but just started saddle making I am hooked I love it.Thanks Buddy

    These are instructions plus patterns for saddlemaking:

    http://www.leathercr...gSeriesNew.html

    To me it sounds a good way to start.

    Gesa

    Thanks I will give it a try.Buddy

    Thanks havent thought of that,uddy


  9. Hello All,

    I'm a first time reader and poster. I've just started into leather work full time to make a few extra dollars to help pay for my masters degree in architecture. I was wondering if anyone has any advise for dying large pieces of leather? I have requests for large briefcases and messenger bags, but am having trouble getting a consistent streak-free color on the larger pieces of the bags. Any advice on this topic is much appreciated, i.e. what types of dyes, finishes, application techniques, etc...

    Thanks,

    SNH

    http://www.facebook....100002686069546

    I use febings dye and air brush,buddy saddle

  10. Some people make their own from guitar string. I forgot which one, I think it was G string. Double over and loop becomes the EYE and twist ends together tightly for needle.

    There is a video somewhere on net on making from fuse wire, same way. Good Luck!

    Thanks I will try this,I love this site Buddy


  11. I am a new member,making my first saddle,just finished cantel binding.I have a friend who has a boot and saddle repair shop,has helped a lot.While i was doing the cantel binding he gave me some wire needles he got from a saddle shop he bought out.Where can i buy them,friend did not know,they were great. thanks for any help you can give me,Buddy


  12. The whole thing is cut in a banana shape for me. As a generality, I allow about 1-1/4 inches at the bottom for the fold-out and then it depends on on the binding style for my top allowance. For a straight binding I allow about 1-1/2" around the top edge of the cantle. If it is a Cheyenne roll I allow about 3/4-1" plus the width of the roll. If the roll is level at the top I use one pattern. If the roll is to snap down more across the top, then I use a pattern with more curve to it.

    thancks bruice,i think i have about got it figured out now i thank you for your help.
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