Hey all!
So I am super-duper new to leatherwork. I have plenty of experience as your standard nerdgirl cosplay costumer, including a LITTLE bit of sewing work with leather -- Exhibit A -- but I've never tried wet-forming the stuff, or tooling it or any of that other fancy business.
I have a friend in real life who's worked with leather a ton, and he's already proved a valuable resource in a lot of regards. But I'm also attempting to try some stuff he hasn't yet, which is where you all come in!
About two weeks ago, I got it into my head that for this year's Dragon*Con, I'd like to try doing Felicia Day's Tallis costume from the upcoming Dragon Age: Redemption web series. It's important to note that the series hasn't actually AIRED yet, but a) I'm a new redhead, Felicia Day is awesome, and c) everyone's already done her Codex outfit from The Guild. Plus, this will involve learning new skills, which is important if I want to be any kind of costumer worth a damn, right?
The costume looks like this.
I realize I could do this with foam or cloth or any number of other materials, but it sure looks to me like it's made of leather, and that's how I'd like to do it. (Incidentally, I reached out to the costume designer, Shawna Trpcic, who was very nice but who wouldn't tell me what the material is before the web series' actual release. So I get to guess.)
I've already figured out about how many pieces I'm going to need to make, and I've drafted a few sketchy preliminary patterns. I have a dressform that's pretty close to my dimensions, so I'll probably be working with that for most of this process. My PLAN is to do paper templates, use those to make air-drying earthenware clay molds, and then work the leather over the clay molds. My friend and the interwebs tell me this should work, provided I make the molds a little deeper than I want the actual design to be, but I'm open to advice if you guys have better suggestions!
Here are some of my questions:
1. What is the best way to draft a pattern for the, ahh, curviest part of the breastplate? Breasts are curved, and paper is flat. With fabric, you solve this problem through darts and curved seams; obviously, leather is a little bit different. Should I draw the pattern out flat and expect it to stretch once I'm sculpting, or should I transfer it from the dressform to the paper while taking the curved surface into account?
2. Similarly: should my molds -- clay or otherwise -- be flat or curved to fit the contours of my body? I'm not really worried about this for the thigh pieces, bracers, and spaulders, or even the flat part of the breastplate, but I really don't know how I'm going to attack my boobs (TWSS). Should I do the design flat and then stretch it out over the dressform, or should I curve the armor FIRST and THEN mold the design?
3. That breastplate looks to be three pieces to me, but even with the screengrabs I've taken from an Xplay interview, it's really hard to tell. What do you all think?
4. I've read all kinds of stuff about the best weight to use for leather armor. I'm given to understand 6-10 oz. veg leather is the best. Is that right?
5. Should I be looking for green leather, or should I be looking for another, flatter color that I then paint or dye on my own?
I tweeted Felicia to ask if there were any other shots of the costume available; she wrote back (!) to say she'd try to release a few over the next couple of weeks, but "the next couple of weeks" is a scary timeline when Dragon*Con is only about 40 days away -- and I have a full-time job!
So if anyone wants to walk me through this, I would be super, super grateful. I realize this is a LOT of questions. Even a few tips or starting points would be immensely helpful to me. Thank you!