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tackgirl956

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Posts posted by tackgirl956

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks guys really appreciate the reply back. :notworthy: Bob appreciate the chart and will definitely check it out. Wiz if you have never heard of a #17 needle (with all your experience) that probably explains why there isn't much info out there on the net. In checking the needle package that came with the machine, it reads Schmetz , Germany, system DPX17, not sure what the word "system" stands for or mean? If it were you, would you go with the correct size thread for the #16 or the #18 needle? From what I have read about the different industrial size needles, the #17 is more for heavier fabrics, canvas etc and lt wt leathers ...the #16 more for the heavier leather. My first project is going to be to sew up a (leopard print) horse saddle pad with 1/2" foam in the center, I'm thinking the #17 needle should work fine for that...just got to figure out the correct size thread, has to be durable and strong since it will have to stand the weight of the saddle and rider for hours on the trails. Thanks again for helping a newbie :cowgirl: out!

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hello guys and girls

    Here i have a "translation trouble"

    I ve seen several times this term "GAITED Horse"

    about horses or even saddle trees

    i can't find the right translation in french or even a good explanation in english for this "gaited" term

    Anyone can explain to me what exactly it is?

    I ve seen that the bars for a gaited horse saddle tree seems shorter and slightly tipped toward the outside

    Reminds me of those "Hope" kind of bars mixed with Arabian bars

    Is that right?

    I would thanks anyone for giving me more explanation about this

    Hi, we have been selling Paso Fino gaited saddle for over 10 yrs now, we often get the same question from customers. A gaited saddle is basically a saddle with a more narrow gullet (good flare a must) to set/ride higher up on the wither. In the instance of the Paso Fino horse, they are a very front end action

    breed and require the saddle to be lifted up and off the wither and shoulder. If you ride this breed in a saddle that fits down too low on the wither, it can cause them to have to work to hard to lift all that weight up and off that area everytime lift their shoulders to gait. US saddlemakers tend to make saddles more for the standard gaited breeds like the TW, RM and FT, they are really just catching on good that gaited horses do gait better in a gaited tree saddle. Paso Fino's are lumped in with the other gaited breeds, but really require an even more narrow gullet than the other gaited breeds to perform their smooth up and down sewing machine gait. Hope this helps. :)

    www.ranchodelrey.net

  4. Posted · Edited by tackgirl956 · Report reply

    Advice please, would this machine be overkill for sewing leather handbags, wallets and hopefully horse halters later on? Adler 168-RE72 Post Bed Walking Foot

    I was thinking seriously about purchasing a Consew, Chandler or Tacsew, but after reading the recommended use of the Adler compared to the other machines not sure they would be that good for heavy leather projects?

    Most of the machines above with the exception of the Adler, have a stich speed of 2500 or more, seems to fast for any real leather sewing, even with a servo motor?

    Techsew sounds and looks good but unfortunately out of my meger business start up price. :(

    Also is an alternating walking foot the same as a compound walking foot?

    The Adler is used and seems a good deal at $650 + S&H but not sure I'm up for a used machine and someone else's problem?

  5. Posted · Report reply

    A bunch of our members own either the CB2500, or the GA5-1, which is the same machine in a different skin. These are a good machine for heavy duty sewing, with thick thread. I am not sure that leather handbags would require such a heavy duty machine, nor the big needles and heavy thread these machines are made to use. They use thread sizes 138 and up and needles from #22 or 23, up. They sew to 7/16" and are best used with hard leather (belts, straps, bridles, reins, collars, leashes, holsters). Typically, the CB2500 is setup with a #25 or 26 needle and threaded with #277 or #346 bonded nylon thread.

    Tell me more details about the leather handbags. Things like the type of leather (chrome tan, veg-tan, latigo, bridle), thickness being sewn (from - to), thread size and type you want to use, speed you want to sew at, and arm/body depth you need to rotate the bags freely as you fancy stitch them. These details will help us suggest the best machine for these bags.

    Thanks Wiz, I REALLY appreciate your interest and input.:notworthy:

    They are made of old cowboy boot top leather, the fancier ones with lots of pretty stitching.. the way they used to make good boots..lol! I then add a piece of leather to the bottom so it will set up good ..add straps, fringe along the sides, conchos etc..boot top leather is usually a thinner leather than what the foot of the boot is made of....usual thickness is around 1/8" but would have to double that for sewing the different parts together, in case of adding the fringe you then have to sew the 2- 1/8" thickness leather together plus have another 1/8" of fringe leather in the middle of the seam. About 3/8" all together maybe a little more...

    So you see my dilemma on the right size machine..not sure I need the real heavy duty Cowboy machine..though I would LOVE to own one...but then again it might be just what I need? lol!

    Enclosed a pic of an idea for a iphone case... I've been working on..made out of the boot top leather..rough stage..needs to be sewn together. :(

    post-23648-006802700 1312606045_thumb.jp

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Tackgirl:

    Those cowboys cylander arm machines can be fitted with an optional flat table and will do both nicely. I have the 4500 and have not removed my flat table since I bought it, BUT I CAN!

    Kevin

    Thanks Kevin, that is good to know..I wondered about the cylinder arm machines..they are pretty neat.. Raphael Sewing has really cool one... I might would even sell my horse to own that one! lol!:thinking:

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines has dozens of flatbed walking foot machines, from most well known brands, including the Chandler you mentioned (I saw a bunch of Chandlers there last year). Call them at 866-362-7397 and see what they can do for you.

    The website, as it is currently, is featuring the Cowboy cylinder arm leather stitcher line and the Consew 206RB flatbed upholstery machine. That doesn't mean that they have no other machines. On the contrary, there are hundreds of industrial machines in the building. They actually prefer doing sales over the phone.

    Hi Wiz, I finally got around to contacting Toledo today..no answer...daRn it.. but did take a look at some of their neat Cowboy machines...they have a Cowboy model #2500 that is about all I can afford at this point with the S&H...only problem is it says it can leave marks on the leather?

    The Cowboy CB2500 has feed dogs to move the material, against a fixed, or roller pressor foot. This may leave visible tooth marks in the bottom layer of leather. These marks can usually be rubbed out with a smoothing tool, or hammered out by laying the back layer on a smooth hard surface, covering the top with a 10-12 oz piece of hard veg-tan leather, and tapping along the stitch line with a mallet or hammer. If this sounds like too much work,

    Just wondering if any members have this machine or know about this machine and what can you do to remove the leather marks or if it really does leave marks on the leather? Since I'm sewing mostly leather handbags with lots of fancy stitching already on them... not sure I would want to deal with cleaning up marks on the leather or stitching? :cowgirl:

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Tackgirl;

    You may or may not be getting a good deal on the used machines. As I have often written, just because a sewing machine is an industrial machine, it may not necessarily be good at sewing leather, such as we use on this forum. Our leather projects are not usually seat covers, although we may make some now and then. Most of the leather crafters haunting Leatherworker.net are making a wide variety of items, including many that are constructed from dense and often thick leather. We like to use heavy bonded nylon thread that is capable of holding these items together against strong external forces. When we go a-lookin' for a leather sewin machine, we have a whole nuther kind a machine in mind.

    Let me explain.

    The machines you posted the pictures of are upholstery grade machines. They are great for sewing drapes, seat covers, couch covers, boat covers, sails, awnings, even jeans. Yes, they will sew leather. But, how fast are they setup to sew? What type of tension springs are they equipped with? How high do the feet lift and alternate? What needle system do they use? How big are the bobbins? How tight is the mechanism? how thick is the take-up lever and its crank shaft? How heavy is the flywheel? Is the wheel and machine balanced?

    Any good, modern walking foot machine, with strong, good steel take-up and moving parts, can be modified to become an efficient leather sewing machine. You want one that is already in good condition and is able to clear at least 7/16 to 8/16 inch under the fully raised presser feet. If equipped with a system 135x16 or 135x17 needle, they can effectively sew through 3/8 inch of material. If everything is tight and the take-up lever is not worn with a thread groove, and the springs are replaced with heavier tension springs, it can be made to sew 3/8 inch of leather. If equipped with system 190 needles, they can sew to almost 1/2 inch! Here's what else you need to do to accomplish this goal:

    First, the speed is important. Leather cannot be sewn at high speeds like garment machines run at. It will smoke from friction and melt the thread, and burn the leather. Upholsters like their machines to run at 2000 rpm. As one upholsterer put it to me, when I asked why his machines ran so fast: "time is money." A machine spinning at 2000 rpm is great is you're sewing fabric, canvas, or sometimes vinyl, but not leather. Even 1000 rpm is way too fast for leather. I see smoke from the needle at 600 rpm! If you want your machine to sew mostly leather, the top speed should be under 600 rpm. Most crafters have theirs set to 320, 160, or less. I had an Alder 204 that had a clutch motor and a speed reducer. It's full speed, pedal down, was 2 stitches per second! That's only 120 rpm.

    If the motor is a clutch motor running at 3450 RPM, lose the motor. Sell it off. If it is a 1st generation high speed, low torque servo motor, sell it off. If it is a 1725 rpm clutch motor with less than 1/2 horsepower, get rid of it. If it is 1/2 HP and has a pulley larger than 2.25 inches, replace the pulley with the smallest one you can buy. 2 inches is perfect, in my opinion.

    Your goal is to equip it with a motor that has a lot of punching power at all speeds, but can easily be made to sew slowly, by foot. For clutch motors, that means learning to feather the clutch. For servos, they have a knob or up/down speed limiter buttons, to set the top speed. Some have more actual range of foot control that others.

    If you have to replace the motor, I recommend the one I bought to replace my clutch motor. This is the .SewPro500GR, sold by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397). It has a built in 3:1 gear reducer and a 2 inch pulley. While it bolts into the same holes as the original clutch motor, it sits closer to the table. So, when buying a new belt, you need to choose one that is not only an equal amount shorter than the original pulley to new pulley diameter, but you must subtract one inch more for the closer body profile.

    With a walking foot machine slowed down to a controllable speed, your next concern is the size of the bobbin. If you only want to sew thin leather, using #69 bonded nylon thread, a standard industrial class 15 bobbin will do fine. But, load that bobbin up with #138 thread, and you cut your sewing distance in half, per bobbin load. So, most leather sewing machines are equipped with a large bobbin. Most of them use the M size, which holds 50% more than the standard bobbin. Juki LU machine large bobbins hold double the standard size!

    All of these facts relate to industrial flat bed machines, like those you asked for opinions on. If you want to buy a used, or new upholstery grade machine, be prepared to pay to modify it to sew leather. You can probably save a lot of expense and aggravation by contacting our dealers and asking what they can sell you at a price you are willing to pay. Let them know what you intend to sew and you will get a machine that fits your needs. Additionally, you get dealer support. You probably won't get that if you buy a used machine from a warehouse, or Chinese import off the boat.

    Wiz, I'm printing this post for safe keeping! Thanks so much for the input..actually I had a dealer tell me the same thing today..go with a slower less stitch per inch sewing machine..he recommended the Chandler 406 versus the Consew 206RB.. said the Chandler 406 was less stitches per inch (1600) and would run slower. I believe he said Chandler was made by Consew, a somewhat less expensive version of the 206RB..choice of either a clutch or servo motor.

    I have visited Toledo, love love their Cowboy machines..but didn't see any flat bed walking foot pics or prices? Guess I'll give them a call..not rushing into anything want to know all my choices. :thankyou:

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Scroll up and call "Ronnie" from Techsew (Raphael in Canada). I have an old Singer that sews 750 stitches per minute. I could quickly sew my arm to saddle skirting. With a Servo Motor (available on all the new machines) you can sew at any speed you want. Having a Servo Motor takes the "intimidation factor" out of sewing leather.

    Johanna

    Thanks Johanna,

    I have found several used Singer walking foot machines..(industrial not industrial strength)..any thoughts on those? I would think parts for them would be easy to find being a Singer? Also found a new Yamata Heavy Duty Walking Foot machine, after some research found out they are made in China, by a company called Fiueye or something like that...the US company selling them claims to keep parts on hand ...sure wouldn't want to wait

    for something to be shipped from China!

    Enclose a pic of the Industrial Singer, a little rough looking but only asking $500 for everything..maybe something to be said for that.. lol! also a pic of the new Yamata ..I prefer new myself but money is a factor just getting started.

    I agree the Servo smart motor sounds like a good thing..only problem is Raphael Sewing only seem to offer them on select machines..their most expensive ones that I can't afford.:16:

    post-23648-041829200 1312427627_thumb.jp

    post-23648-075929300 1312427639_thumb.jp

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I am pretty sure Rod & Denise Nikkel. www.rodnikkel.com would be more than happy to help you with any questions you might have about trees for gaited horses or any other for that fact. I have had some inquiry's about gaited saddles as we have a few around these parts. I am not sure what saddle makers you have talked too, but there are a bunch here that are more than qualified, and some of em could make a saddle ta fit a camel if ya wanted.

    Thanks

    Tom

    Hi Tom, thank you for the info and link, we will definitely check them out!

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Thank you Wiz and Bob! :You_Rock_Emoticon:

    I really appreciate the input on the Tacsew Machine. you saved me from making a possible $800 mistake!

    I'm taking everyone's good advice and searching for a Conew, Techsew etc...they are much more expensive though really going to have to shop around for a good deal on these machines.

    I did find out about the new Servo Smart motor at Raphael Sewing in Canada, sounds like a good thing to keep the speed down (what I need being a newbie)

    anyone have any thoughts on that motor?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Would anyone know of saddle makers that makes either trees or saddles for the Paso Fino gaited horse?

    We have been selling tack for the Paso Fino horse and have to import all of it from Colombia where the breed originated from...

    They require a a much more narrow tree to set up and off the withers, due their front end up and down sewing machine type gait, much like a mule tree we have been told? They are also shorter

    backed which means a shorter tree and saddle..approx 21" - 23" for a trail saddle.

    Any thoughts or suppliers would be greatly appreciated...we would really prefer to deal with a US based saddle maker, but can't get any US saddle makers to take an interest in this breed?

    Enclosed a pic of one of our Colombian saddles made for the Paso Fino horse, nice fitting tree but the Colombian leather is not very good quality.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Anyone have any thoughts or experience with a Tacsew GC6-6 Walking Foot Industrial Machine? :whatdoyouthink:

    I mainly sew leather handbags and cell cases out of the old fancy stitched cowboy boot tops..would this machine be over kill for my type of leather projects?

    I would like to try my hand at making leather headstalls and halters later on..but can't afford 2 different leather machines.

    BIG thanks to Wiz for sharing all his been there done that machine experiences with us!

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