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toasty1435

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Posts posted by toasty1435


  1. Can anyone attest to the Osborne #155 rotary punch quality? I have a cheapo one that the tubes have worn down on and don't punch well only after a few uses. I'm looking to get a better quality punch that will stand up to use. I've heard good things about the Osborne #155 and also the Knipex punch (http://tinyurl.com/m6tyv34).

    What you guys recommend? One requirement is it has to be a rotary punch just due to minimal noise.

    Thanks!


  2. I've still had no luck hearing from WC and have moved on to Springfield. After sending in my request I got an immediate detailed response back. +1 for customer service. Lack of communication is my biggest turn off from using a supplier. I hear good things about Springfield so I'll see what they can do for me.


  3. When you guys have a project, do you dye the entire hide and then cut your pattern out or do you dye the individual pieces after cutting?

    I'm asking because I've been using fairly thin leather (2.5 - 3oz) and after dying sometimes the cut pattern pieces have stretched/shrunk and they don't line up exactly according to my patterns. Thanks for any help you guys can provide.


  4. Hi all, I recently made the switch to weldwood and I like it so much better than Barge. It's much cheaper and a lot less stringy/messy. Only downside is the smell is much stronger.

    Anywho I recently tried a new glue dispenser with the Weldwood original formula (non-gel). I got it for doing detail work for stuff like passport covers and other things where you needed a very small bead of glue. This is the one that I got:

    http://www.amazon.co...ils_o00_s00_i00

    It works great! It has a small precise metal tip that's perfect for laying down a glue line 1-2mm wide. I store a pin in it when I'm not using it so it doesn't get clogged from dried glue.

    Anyways I thought I would share because it's been so handy to use!


  5. Hi all, I've been burnishing some edges on some piece lately and I have a had time of keeping the edges from becoming flared out and making a raised edge on either side of my piece. Should you always bevel the edge of the leather before you burnish it or is there another way to do it so I do not need to bevel it? Thanks.


  6. So I have a issue on two pieces I just finished dying last night. I had wet them in the area around where I was stamping and they were dyed the leather is much lighter around where it had been wet. They had ample time to dry and I've never had this happen before on my other pieces done in the same way. It's so light and in a well defined area it looks like a bleach stain. Usually I do this and I never have problem with stains like this. Is this fixable? My only thought of recourse is to use a dauber and try to dye around the area that is lighter and blend it in.


  7. I just want to say thanks to all of the forum members so far, it's been very helpful to be on this site and get tips from the professionals.

    My next question is how deep does your dye usually penetrate your leather? I've been daubing dye and lately been dip dying some of my projects. However it seems no matter how much dye I use or how long I leave the hide in the dye bath I can only get dye on the surface and not further in. Is this usual? I would like deeper dye penetration so as my projects wear they don't show the light colored hide underneath. Thanks again!


  8. So currently i use Barge but it is the tube type. I try to mix it best i cant by squeezing the tube back and forth and then I apply it to a popsicle stick to smear it on. The glue is usually kind of chunky and extremely stringy. I just recently started hearing about glue pots. Can anyone tell me the purpose of these and whether you usually do or do not thin Barge before you apply it to your project? Thanks!


  9. Thanks for the help!

    Do you ever condition before dyeing? I just fixed the warping by wetting the leather, forming it back into shape and then liberally applying some lexol. Seems to have worked well for now.

    I can't afford a whole airbrush kit yet but I've always wanted to try dip dying, it seems much more fool-proof than daubers. My only problem is I do a lot of small projects with different tones and I hate wasting excess dye.

    Do you guys make small containers to dip dye in or do you just make large batches and use that color repeatedly?

    Thanks again.


  10. Hi all, I'm still a bit of a beginner at this but I'm passionate for learning the right way.

    Right now I'm having an issue where when I'm dying some vegetable calf and goat leather and the edges are curling and the piece is warping significantly.

    I'm using Fiebing's oil dye mixed with denatured alcohol to get the shade I want. My process is dyeing with wool daubers and then leaving the piece to dry. When I come back in the morning the piece is very dry and warped.

    Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!


  11. Anyone use or heard of these? I'm looking for a verstile sewing machine for both fabrics and leathers. The type of work I'm doing is sewing 4-5oz leather onto felt or 4-5oz pieces together. I mostly need something that has the ability to do light leather work but also fabric. 5oz is the thickest I would be using.


  12. Thanks everyone I took back the can to Tags and unfortunately found out their entire stock was expired. So instead I bought some barge glue. I know there's been talk about the new formula not being as good as the old stuff but I thought I'd get it a shot since I like that it came in a tube.

    So far seems to work pretty well, definately much more "stringy" than the weld wood stuff its hard to spread without it being messy. Anyone have any tips? Also how long does it take to fully cure/stick? Thanks.

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