yankeeinoz

Hi Expert Folks, I want to make a padded chinstrap for a Mexican crossover type bridle that I have The padded chinstrap that comes with the bridle (too short for the horse) is simple in design but I am not sure how to shop for the leather and the padding material which I assume is a type of foam. Other features are that the padding leather is buttery and soft but not slippery. I assume it is a type of calf skin but not sure of the thickness. The padding I can only guess is a type of foam that is commonly used to pad brow and nose bands on bridles? Anyone have experience in this area?

Hi Kevin, A rounded bead is exactly what I am looking for but I haven't even been able to get a properly burned crease line with the screw crease I have. I have tried heat, wet , you name it but all I get is more like a thin cut rather than a burnished crease. I purchase a more blunted edge crease tool but did not get the result I want. I thought it was because I am not able to apply the correct force (even hot) so was looking at a shoulder crease thinking that leverage might be the problem...I am sure I am over thinking this! As for the shoulder pricking wheel, it was for sale by the same ebay seller from the U.K. that had the shoulder crease. Both items were shoulder type tools so I assume they came from the same set. What attracted me to the shoulder crease was that the metal part looked like cast iron rather than the steel that my crease is made from, which in my mind might heat more consistently and with better downward pressure I might get a more rounded indentation? But, what you said about using a shoulder crease is exactly what I thought - too fiddly. Anyway, if you have a photos of your crease tool of choice and a finished piece showing the rounded bead, please don't hesitate to show it. Thanks a bunch. Jen

Hi All, Does anyone have experience using a shoulder crease or shoulder pricking wheel? I am wondering how these tools differs from a normal crease and pricking wheel and how to use them properly. Thanks.

Hi Jeffzilla, Spot on tutorial! This info has solved the big problem I was having when scribbing the cathedral with my compass. I keep loosing the points of reference for the bottom points and consequently the tip of the arc when swinging the compass leg because I find it hard to keep the stationary leg from moving around (I thought my compass was wonky). I have the exact same cutting board as in your photos so now I know to use the grid to help keep postion, huzzah! Also, thanks for explaining your cutting technique. I think this tutorial is definitely worth putting into the leatherworkers.net tutorial section, I looked there but didn't see one on this particular subject. Thanks again, yankeeinoz

Hi Cavsgt, Thanks kindly for the very good templating advise. You know, I hadn't thought of making templates in the way you suggest. In fact I hadn't even thought of marking the end cut as well as the side cuts on the straight point. Tell me, what method do you think works better when making the cut on the straight point, pushing the knife toward the end point or up toward the long end? And, how can I avoid undercutting the leather when I make the side cuts? I try and hold the knife vertically but it still undercuts? As for the ice cream eating offer, it would definitely cost you more to send the lid to Oz than it would cost to buy the ice cream in the first place. But thanks all the same. Cheers, yankeeinoz

I would be so thankful if someone could explain the correct way to cut bridle and strap points by hand. I am trying to cut a straight point shape and a church window (aka english point) shape by hand but I can't seem to get a consistent cut on both the right and left sides. I have tried various techniques including cutting one side flesh up then the other grain up and I still can't get it right. My feeling is that my knife skills are severely lacking but can't seem to find any tutorials that show the actual cutting part of the process. I know that I can buy end punches for the church window shape but the good ones are really pricey and I still haven't found one that does the traditional bridle straight point (not the pointed end one). Cheers, yankeeinoz

Hi All, I live in the Yarra Valley (50km east of Melbourne). I've just started making my own bridlery and training gear for my New Forest Pony. My passion is traditional English Bridlery and Strapping. I am finding Leatherworkers.net to be a great supportive site. Heaps of invaluable experience based advice and beautious examples to spur inspiration.