labrat7357

What sorts of tools do you make and have you uploaded any images to the galleries etc. I would love to see the range and see how you go about making them. Regards

Hi, This is in reply to the three options listed for buying a round knife. I have no experience of Stolhman knives but I note that they offer s/steel blades and that for me is a real turn off. The only stainless steel I have ever had that took and held an edge was a pocket knife made by Falkniven out of a laminated stainless with a powdered stainless core. But as sharp as it is I am told they are very prone to chipping as it is not a tough steel. I have several early Osborne knives with stars or "X" or "XX" stamped on the blade. They are all excellent knives. But I have also seen the quality of other Osbourne hand tools decline in recent years and I do not believe the round knives would be exempt from this drop in quality and finish, so I would not buy a #70 round knife. I would hunt down a round knife with some age on it, through a reputable seller or through ebay.. Makers to look for would include Osborne , Rose, Gomph, Dixon and Collins. With ebay ask direct questions about the knife as I have bought on the basis of the picture only to find the othe side has been in contact with wet card board and was heavilly pitted. All was not lost as the handle was great and I had a nice blade on another osborne with a split handle and an owners initals scratched into it. The only thing that says it is not original is the use of a 1/8 diameter brass pin to compensate for the different hole positions in blade and handle. If you end up with somthing you are not happy with you can always relist it as what it is. I have sold a heavily pitted knife that I had rust neutralised the blade on, to a lady who wanted the rustic look as she was going to mount it on a board with some other tools to make a "work bench" diarama and set it into the top of a coffee table she was having made. I was honest with her, she got what she wanted and the knife was not going into the trash. A win all around. All the best.

Hi, The comments by Twin Oaks are valid about the specialised nature of haderning and tempering steel. I have made a number of knives for leather work and my initial attempts failed when the blades developed cracks during the quench.. I spoke to a specialist metal processor who reccomended the steel from old one and two man cross cuts saws as they are very nearly early equivilents of 01 Tool steel and can be hardened and tempered using the same simple process. I made the knives and cutters but had him hardeen and temper them. They work well. I do not agree with his statement about copying the design.. Patenting an Idea or registering a design is intended to provide protection of the interlectual property from exploitation from commercial rivals and companies. No where in the world is an individual prevented from making an item (an exact copy) for his personal use. If he were to start making and selling that item, that is a different story. I've made some knives,edge tools a couple of strap cutters and awls for my self so that they fit my hand better and there is also the satisfaction of having made it your self. One of the strap cutters was modelled on the Joseph Dixon design and one was a simple cutter I designed and if any one wants to go the trouble of making that one, go for it. Infact if you did want to make one I still have some of the makings that are already milled drilled and tapped and just need finishing . You pay the post and I will send you one. As for your handle you live in Arizona and you have Arizona desert iron wood which is one of the most beautiful and toughest woods anywhere. Regards Jeff

Hi, I am sorry I do not know about a supplier in the US or elsewhere but I found it easy enough to make an extra set as I wanted some with a narrow jaw. I tracked down a person who bends wood with steam for arcitectural woodwork and he bent up some Victorian Ash for me. The way I made them differs to your image as the two slats extend all the way to the floor giving you much more space under the jaws. It took a while as I adjusted the thickness and shape with a spoke shave and hand plane. I am still to fit some vera wood jaws to complete the project. Regards Jeff

Hi, The verdigris can form for a number of reasons, residual chemicals from the tanning process or sweat from the horse/person. All types of verdigris can be removed with a bit of rubbing and scrubbing and some mild acid such as vinigar or lemon juice. It is formed when unalloyed copper in the brass or bronze reacts with a salt of some type. If you are going to polish the brass to remove the signs of tarnish or in some cases the pitting where copper has been leached from the item. It is important to clean the surface after polishing to remove any waxes or fats from the polish compound prior to coating it with a porotective coating. The reason being that there are still small amounts of verdigris in that wax or fat that can restart the processall over again. If you do not have special brass lacquer or Renaissance Wax on hand another coating that also works is clear nail polish. Regards Jeff