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elt2jvadam

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Posts posted by elt2jvadam


  1. First thing I'd say is Welcome to the forum!

    Second thing is the pics are a tiny bit too small to get specific on comments but from what I can see you are doing fine work. I'd like to see an enlarged picture of the revolver holster, if you have one.

    Jake

    Thanks for the welcome and the compliment. The GP100 holster was a bit odd, as it was salvaged from a previous project. It didn't come out as even as I'd have liked, but the guy I made it for was ecstatic. Here's some more pics:

    post-33830-084270000 1345120845_thumb.jp

    post-33830-014109200 1345120857_thumb.jp

    post-33830-050109500 1345120867_thumb.jp


  2. Thanks for the advice. So far I've had no durability issues, but as I said before, it's all short term experience.

    Next time I pick up supplies, I think I'll get an awl and some waxed linen to compare with what I've been using. Probably a groover and overstitch wheel, too. If everyone else is using it, then I need to check it out and see how it works for me.

    I am much more of a utilitarian than an artist, and do not mean to offend any sensibilities here. Most of what I've made and will be making is for use and not for show, so my main concern is sturdiness and longevity. The vast majority of what I've been asked to make is for left-handed people and for less common guns.

    Leather was easier for me to get into as a medium, so that's why I went with it. A.S. is what looked the strongest, and it was what the local hobby store had. I just never tried anything else.

    Does anyone have any experience with long term durability on A.S.? Does it hold up? I don't want to put products out there that fail, so please let me know.


  3. I've read through many threads in these forums, and the consensus seems to be that artificial sinew is not well liked for holster work.

    Is this an aesthetic opinion or is there a durability issue? I have been using and really like the sinew for the overbuilt look. (Opinions vary, YMMV) It works well with punched holes and backstitches well. So far I have had no compatibility problems with the beeswax/neatsfoot oil/paraffin mixture I use as a finish. It appears to be very strong, but none of my work has been afield for more than a few months.

    Please advise, as I have sold a few holsters and have a half dozen to make over the next two weeks.

    For clarification, I stitch by hand with blunt needles through size 0 punched holes in 6/8 oz veg tanned cowhide. What is left of the holes after wetting and boning the holster (they close up a bit) generally fills up with the wax finish. I backstitch three stitches and have not had any loosen up. Stitch spacing is 3/16", so not quite 6 stitches per inch.

    post-33830-085828000 1345062823_thumb.jp


  4. I've been making leather holsters for about a year and am entirely self-taught.

    I use 6/8 oz leather, knife cut to a paper pattern. I lay out the stitching with wing dividers and punch the stitch-holes with a hollow punch. Then I hand sew a saddle stitch with artificial sinew, backstitching the last three stitches. I wet mold the leather (water only) with clay sculpting tools and dry the holster thoroughly with a heat gun before pouring a 50/50 mix of Gulf Wax and beeswax over the holster until saturation (excluding the inside surface. I melt and reflow the accumulated wax with the heat gun to remove the excess, then buff the finish to a dull gloss.

    As many here have much more experience, please comment on my work and advise on improvements.

    post-33830-099807100 1344366873_thumb.jp

    post-33830-051308200 1344366893_thumb.jp

    post-33830-037927200 1344366913_thumb.jp

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