Help! Rolled edges: Made a thing, not happy.

[Help! Rolled edges: Made a thing, not happy.]

A bit of black or dark brown dye over that original raw edge, will help disguise it.
So might a rivet to mash it all  together... (not that I'm a fan of rivets at all...)

 

[Box loop Stapler - Need harness maker's help!]

On 4/3/2020 at 9:00 AM, Alexis1234 said:

I am familiar with how to sew them- going thru the face and using a die to cover up the holes.

 

Hi Alexis, do you mind if I ask just how the 2nd side/edge of a long box loop is sewn up by hand ?
Small loops up to 1-1/4" wide,  I've sewn for years, angling the awl more as you near the middle of the inside of the loop, but as you say, 2" to 8" long ones are a different matter. Do you mean that you sew them plain, using the same hole on the top a few times, and only when finished, wet and press the pattern in them?

Thanks in advance!

Ian

 

[Adler/chandler 067 Gk373 Bobbin Size]

Thanks! I've just acquired a Juki LH1152-4B

[Original Singer 45K Users Manual]

14 hours ago, Talisien said:

 I have recently obtained 45ks.v83

 

 

 

 

 

I saw that on FB Marketplace - originally the model was unlisted, and I suggested the seller identify it- it resembled our 45K machines.
I was guessing the SV perhaps meant 'special version' ?  'Saddler' to me seems unlikely as so many 45K machines went into the saddlery trade and were not SV named.

There are similarities in them  though.  I haven;t previously come across an 83 though.
All the best with yours.  They take the same needles as the 132K6,
 

[Pearson / BUSMC HM 6 serial numbers and dates list]

Peter Main in USA has been compiling a list of HM6 Pearsons around the world, listed by serial number, and  owner's location.
It makes for interesting reading.  (It's in the Facebook group)
It would be great to be able to add to the list, if anyone here feels like listing their name, town/country, and the machine's serial number.
Bonus points if you have an original receipt or  sensible verification of a n approximate date of manufacture (or import/export)  for the machine.
Thanks!

Ian

[Double shoulder or full side]

Is it big enough?
The belly is generally the weakest/stretchiest part. The spine the  best part - when it comes to harness leather.
If you need length, a double-shoulder might not have it.
Figure out the total area you need, and then get the piece that will fulfil your requirements.

 

[Tooling Harness Leather]

Much harness leather is usually veggie-tanned...
Just not the latigo or chrome stuff.

[Pearson #6 bobbins - DIY ?]

I don't know- I simply put the calipers on the Pearson one, and wrote down the dimensions... then duplicated it.
There's a bit of slop in the shuttle, so plus or minus 1/2mm in length is no problem that I can see.
(Thanks for the compliment!)

 

[Pearson #6 bobbins - DIY ?]

Just curious - after looking online in Australia and only finding Pearson bobbins for sale ex Canada at about $35 USD each plus post and customs duty & gst,

I figured I'd measure the only one we have, and make myself some spares- two for black and two for white thread.

Has anyone else tried to make their own?

I did them in brass - turned down to 14.2 mm diameter and drilled a 1/8" hole, and silver-soldered the ends on to some 1/8" bronze shaft/rod that I had.

They're not overly classy to look at but they should be functional. I still have to drill a tiny hole for starting winding on.

 

Have a nice day, Folks!

[Directions For Timing A Singer 45K25]

For what it's worth, I have a 45k-67 with a jump foot, and the removable rectangular base that converts it from a cylinder arm, to a flat base.
Also have a 45k-72 in which the presser foot bar jumps up in each cycle, as if it's meant to have the jump foot, but it came with just a roller foot a bit under 1/8" wide, though I've been able to get a spoon foot, and a wider roller foot for it.

The feed dogs on one of them had been worn to smithereens, and the plate had been broken where misaligned needles or leather over the years has walloped the hole. (I'm gguessing someone had tried sewing horse rugs, and the misalignment comes when climbing up a thick double seam) The plate and needle hole had been brazed back on a few times. I was lucky to pick up another plate and a few bobbins from an old Singer service shop, before it shut down 10 years ago.
The fellow there kindly photocopied the parts book for that series (45k 67 to 45k 72) for me, though he charged me an arm and a leg for it too!

I don't have much in the way of spares that are spare though.

We have clydesdale horses, and I've made our own harness over the years - using these and also hand sewing, plus using a big old unbranded Adler/Wertheim with a sideways moving shuttle. I use a chopped down Pearson needle for that.
(Also have a 29k13 that gets a fair bit of use, a Pederson sole stitcher, and a few other mostly dead middle-sized Singers.)

Thanks for the thread. I had three days of 'fun' (sarcasm) 28 years ago when I bought the 45k 72, as I knew nothing about them, and the timing was out - it would not sew anything, though I was promised it worked.
I just about tore my hair out trynig to figure the problem-eventually I found a loose grub screw underneath that prevented the shuttle from rotating far enough round at the right time to grab the loop of thread. Once I seated that, it's been fine!