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Big Daddy T

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About Big Daddy T

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  1. It's all good...I just couldn't resist! I have archived this as good material to stick in my brain for later. Thanks for the question...and if it gets me leather to DIE for, then mores the better!!!
  2. That was exactly the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much. The illustration was perfect, all three! Thank you, BDT
  3. Hi there. Brand new to tooling leather and will be laying my first stamping blows later tonight. Theory question about beveling. First you have made your cut for whatever line it is you want to bevel. The cut is the valley, there is the pattern edge and the bevel edge. You will take your beveler and put the tool on the line so that when you land your blows it mashes the bevel side of the cut down completely, correct? (instead of leaving a 1 micron gap [read:small] between the bevel side edge and the stamping with the beveler) Correct? You don't want to leave a thin line between the cut and the bevel stamp is what I am asking. That would ruin the attempt at depth in the piece, right? You make a clean cut, you mash 1/2 have the clean cut down to make it look 'raised' and then walk the bevel tool all the way around the pattern edge that you want to highlight, correct? Again, just a theory question. I might look like a noob or sound silly, but I don't mind looking as such if I have more knowledge going into a project than less. Thank you, BDT
  4. My apologies if I misspoke. What I meant to say was something along these lines: I have never used a swivel knife. So I can't speak to them. But I am a blacksmith. And there are SEVERAL times when you buy a new tool and you get the "beginner" model and it's a POS and tough to learn on. Then you realize (or someone tells you) that it is in fact a piece of garbage and you should have bought the mid grade or the high end version and you would have had a MUCH easier time learning. (it's higher quality, you get what you pay for, etc etc etc...) Or, in the craft of blacksmithing we are encouraged (sometimes forced) to MAKE our own tools. This not only teaches you to learn them, but you really get a feel for what works better than not. Want that angle narrower rather than more open? You hammer it shut. Holy cow, THAT make life more difficult. So you hammer it back open. Trial and error. From what I have read about swivel knives, they take a good deal of work to become proficient. I would rather shell out $140 for a top end, top of the line model that will make learning the tool a joy, then to buy a $10 version, a $20 version, a $80 version and struggle and not have fun with the hobby. Especially if I only find out that gosh, I really do want the $140 model after all. So my "inferior" was speaking only to the experience, not the product. Apologies if I offended anyone. I meant on insult to a product. Big Daddy T p.s. The blacksmith puzzles are numbered...1,2,3,4 etc. The heart in the box is #1, Contestoga Plaything, etc. I made #1 and learned a LOT. I then couldn't find the pattern I wanted for #2 so I skipped it and went on to #3. WELL. See, they are ordered for a REASON. You learn to use the tools and learn different techniques that you have to master before you move on. The training builds on each one before it. I was WAY frustrated. Someone pointed out my error when they asked to see #2. I told them I skipped and they laughed in my face. My experience was inferior because of how I approached it. That is the kind of experience I want to avoid in the swivel knife arena. I can be my own worst enemy. Thank you for your time and understanding, BDT
  5. Pretty pictures, none the less. I think I am going to go with a tangleboss as well and skip the pain and learning curve of an inferior swivel knife. It looks like it would be FAR less work and fatigue than a fixed blade or barrel swivel knife... Thanks! BDT
  6. NICE. Thank you for the piece and the example. Yes, I am not dainty, to say the least. So it is tracing and then some skill with the swivel knife. You could basically transfer anything that would fit the piece and cut it in. Removed the need for a 'stamp'. as such. And with 'runic' stamps it would be line cutting--again not needing to 'stamp' to reproduce the effect. Thank you for the feedback. That helps. I have been toying with what to buy first: a stamp set or a swivel knife. I think this might seal the deal. And I like the photo. Good work. Thanks again, BDT
  7. Sylvia, So you would trace it and then cut it with something like a swivel blade? Or you would trace it, and make your own stamp out of metal? I have never stamped leather and I am going to start, so I am just learning. Please forgive the ignorance on the subject. Thank you, BDT
  8. So what did you hear this weekend? Thanks, O
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