BulletProof

I have a vintage leather strap (70's?) that has become dry and if I bend it too much it starts to crack. Is there a way to get it back to pliable? I tried neatsfoot, and even wrapped a neatsfoot soaked rag around it over night - no help. Then I thought of you guys! Any ideas? (Thanks in advance!) BP

Seems Springfield is out of Horse Butts right now - I need some for belts (8/9oz) Just a couple would do for now… anyone know of a good resource? I tried Horween but the price is prohibitive. Any leads are appreciated. B.P/

I love using copper, hand-peened rivets/burrs. They are much more durable than their "press-in" counterparts, and I like the look. But I am hoping to find some with a smaller diameter head. The ones I buy (previously from Tandy, and now online) all have a head diameter of about 3/8". Does anyone know of a supplier with a smaller copper rivet/burr combo? Thanks! BP

Thanks guys. This project might be small enough for me to dip dye. For larger projects, I will try and be more careful on the amount of dye applied... Live and learn!

I am using Fiebings Oil Dye on 4/5 oz. I have a small project that I have to dye on the flesh side as well as the skin side. But when I dye the flesh side, I will get an uneven bleed through onto the skin side (blotches, spots). Any solutions to this issue? Most of my projects are lined, this one is not because the reduced complexity means it can sell for a reduced price. Your help is appreciated!

From the Wickett & Craig site: http://www.wickett-craig.com/index.php/leathers/description-and-grading Skirting Mold it, tool it, carve it, oil it, dye it! Our skirting is the most versatile leather that we make. With strength and malleability, it is the number one choice for all your saddle and holster type of needs. We make it in six colors in order to save you the hassle of dyeing. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. Carving/Tooling Our tooling leather is used by the best leather crafters in the world. The natural color is super for any color dye you want to use. It has the same great carving and tooling ability as the skirting. We stock this in 8-10oz and we will custom split it to any weight you want, free of charge. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. Harness Drum dyed and hot stuffed with our own formula of oils waxes and tallow, this leather is a great choice for your strap good needs. It is still finished the old fashioned way, by using a glazing jack. This brings the oils to the surface which creates a rich look like none other. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. Work Harness Unlike our harness, work harness is stretched dried and then stuffed with oils, waxes, and tallow. This generally creates a larger longer piece of leather. This leather has a beautiful pull-up and a very heavy, waxy feel. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. Show Harness Much like the work harness the show harness is dried before stuffing which generally creates a longer larger piece of leather. This too has a great looking pull-up and is heavy with oils, waxes, and tallow. The difference between this and the work harness is the surface feel: this leather is not as “greasy” as the work harness. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. English Bridle Used in more ways than we can count, drum dyed and hot stuffed, English bridle needs no finishing. After drum dying we impregnate the leather with our own formula of waxes and oils to create a durable yet flexible leather. We then finish the grain and flesh with our rich beautiful aniline dye to show off the natural texture. Last, we seal the color in and then finish it with a wax coat to give it a look like none other! Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. Belt Latigo One of two latigo leathers that we make, this is the prettier of the two. This is finished similar to our English bridle. We drum dye and hot stuff this leather to condition it just right. With a rich aniline top, there is no need for finishing. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information. Oiled Latigo The name says it all! Our oiled latigo is conditioned with the right combination of oils and waxes to help your product last for many years. We provide this in a firmer temper and a softer temper to best meet your need. Check out our “color” and “pricing” tabs for more information.

Thanks Tom, I will give that a try.

Perhaps I have been unclear. I know how to stain the leather and get good consistent results. It is just that these particular pieces are being a problem, so I was wondering if there was perhaps a solution to pretreating the leather to give it a more consistent finish.

I had an Oak Leaf side sent to me from Tandy. When it arrived, I should have just sent it back... the texture was "hard" and the colour of the back was wrong... rough and brittle. But I needed the hide right away, had a couple orders to fill... so I cut it up. Then when I went to dye it, the dye took inconsistently... spotty and blotchy. So my question is at this stage: Is there something I can do to improve the leather's ability to take the dye? A bleach wash? Any ideas? I can't return it now that it has been cut, and I am out $150. + shipping. Thanks again in advance for your help! Ron.

I make device cases (iPad/iPhone) and I have been using 3/4oz vegtan. Well, I have had some issues with certain pieces (inconsistent dyeing etc.) that is making me consider going to a prefinished, pre-dyed leather. But what kind? I still need to do some wet forming, some case require more than others... Can I use Bridle? Skirting? Harness? Latigo? Where do I find info on the characteristics of these types? Help is appreciated!

I am getting a maker stamp made and I want to know what is the minimum size type that I can clearly impress into the leather? I am hoping someone can give me a size in "points" so I can set up the vector design for the custom stamp. Thank you! BP

Yeah , tried that site... couldn't find them on there. But as my wife likes saying, I was probably looking with my a$$. I will try again... R.

Lol, nope, not discouraged or offended! I came here to learn, and I appreciate very much all the council and suggestions. Actually I am pretty proud of my first effort. I would like to get ahold of those corner cutters though if anyone knows an english site that had them... Thanks again for all the help received here! R.

The site with the corner cutters is... in some foreign language that I cannot decipher (price etc.) is there an english equivalent? Oversewing the strap... instructions told me to finish the saddle stitch by sewing back a couple holes... which put me in the middle of the strap. So I kept going until I was off the strap. Hey, this is my first project - first time I cut leather, first time I wet-formed, first time I dyed it, first time I edged it, first time I sewed it, first time I finished it. I guess I was bound to make a mistake or two...

4oz Veg tan leather. It was dry. I am using a fid for punching the holes... maybe too big... I will check out the edge slicking vid... Thanks Mike!

OK, I designed a case for my iPod Touch™. I finished building it... but I have some questions... 1. For cutting the inside and outside corners, does someone make a 1/4 round punch (like a strap-end punch) that I can use to cut neat corners? (see photo). 2. When I started the saddle stitch, it tended to pull at the starting hole and spread it a bit, opening the hole up. Is there a technique or trick here to start the sewing without distorting the hole? 3. Is there a method to estimate the thread needed to sew a given length? ( A x (# of holes) x (total stitch length) = Amount of thread) ??? 4. Can you add thread in the middle of a stitch run if you run short? 5. How do you slick the edge of a piece of thin (3-4oz) leather? Thank you in advance for all your help!!! Ron (aka BulletProof)

Another copy: http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Leather-Secrets-By-FO-Baird-VTG-Book-10005218.html

As I had stated in my one other post, I am a complete newbie to the leather world. I want to make bags, ala Saddleback, Copper Rover etc. I cam across this machine for sale, the owner says it is a Model 29R51. As I don't know anything about these, is this a good machine for my needs? (I rather like the treadle). And what might a machine like this be worth? You insight is appreciated!!!

Wow! Great responses, and thank you for all the positive feedback! OK, so I will jump in, order some books, start reading, and come back often. Truly, thank you for each and every one of your responses, I have tracked down every link, every maker, and every book. I found this locally... will this do my bags? Or is this something to avoid? Help? What is it worth?

I can't sew. I have never used a sewing machine. The most I have ever worked with leather is pounding a rivet through a piece of strapping to make a strap handle. Do you get more newbie than that? And yet, this 50 year old man wants to start making leather bags, pouches etc. (ala Saddleback). Where do I begin? Online courses? Good books? Simplest and strongest sewing machine? PS: I don't mean making a Tandy Leather wallet for my mom for Christmas. I have been a fur-trapper, logger, log-home builder, book-store owner, janitor, shepherd, luthier, and graphic designer. Help me into my next career!