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Gay Crocker

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Posts posted by Gay Crocker


  1. The one I bought was 3.5cfm. That is not enough to run continously but you don't really need to. There is an air reservoire with the compressor. Most folks can get by with one of the pancake compressors. It mostly depends on the type of sewing you are doing. If you are doing really long stitch runs at a fast speed you will need a larger compressor.

    Thanks, that really helps.

    Wish me luck, I am going to hook it up and try it tonight once I get the compressor and hook it up.


  2. I happened across a Tippmann Aerostitch for sale on a classified ad website and decided to get it. I had it shipped from Montana to GA- It just came in yesterday, I went running out of the house barefoot to meet the UPS guy, lol.

    Now I just need a bench to mount it to... oh, and a shop to work in :-/ and to learn how to use the thing. It may not be the Caddy of sewing machines, but something about the Aerostitch made me want one since I first saw them. I'm happy with my purchase, and have less invested thus far than I would've with a comparable electric machine.

    Just thought I'd share :cheers: I'm sure I'll have questions for you experienced folk once I begin using it.

    Nooj

    post-14247-076588500 1299852574_thumb.jp

    Those pieces of tape on the machine are "instructions" the previous owner put on to help me out ;-)

    Hey, I just got one as well. If you have any words of advise please share. I am also looking for a bench to mount it on. If you have found something that works please let me know,


  3. I lucked into a Tippmann Boss today with box and all. I doesn't seem to be used and if it was, very lightly. My friend and I already lubed it all up and tested it and it works great. I want to sell this thing before Christmas and want $900.00 for it. The box is a bit beat up but has everything in it. Honestly I think someone bought this and then put it up in a closet and then decided to sell it. I would keep this thing but I am saving up to get a Cobra Class 4 from Steve. Please feel free to e-mail me at:

    amiga2091@yahoo.com

    I am in San Antonio, Texas and want to sell in this area. Just to let you all know, a brand new Tippman Boss from their website right now is on sale for $1195.00. Get this baby at a fraction of the cost! Thanks in advance!

    Mooshi

    Do you still have this? If so, please call me at 512-759-1617


  4. BOSS™ manual sewing machine (cast iron casing) with needles, thread, bobbins and maintenance tools. $1000.00 firm plus shipping from Weatherford, TX. Photo available for interested craftsman. Contact at John <front_line42@yahoo.com>

    Have you sold this yet? if not please call 512-759-1617


  5. Hi, I am selling this for a friend of mine. It is a CS Osborne 8" splitter. The blade is sharp with no chips or nicks. All the screws are working and not froze up. The spring is good with lots of "spring". The roller has some rust and surface pitting but think it can be polished. I have used it and it works just fine the way it is. It has a gray metal finish almost like it has been sand blasted. I am not sure it that is the origional finish or not. Asking 175.00 or best offer. You can contact me through the PM or send me email to southwind58 at yahoo dot com

    Randy

    Do you still have this? if so, please call me at 512-922-3007.


  6. You'll have to Drop by the shop in Boerne Texas, I won't ship.TEXAS

    One United Shoe Splitter Summit Model M, Monster gear driven splitter

    No motor or table, $550.00 very heavy, 12"

    One Hand crank 6" skiver/splitter, AMERICAN Model-A ,$400.00

    one very old, nice Fortuna Skiver, 1910, $350 heavy

    These are very restorable, came out of my grandfathers old saddleshop.

    Located in Boerne Texas, 78006 210 3643329 No Shipping

    I'm open to trade with you.MVC-001S.JPGMVC-001S.JPGMVC-002S.JPGMVC-002S.JPGMVC-004S.JPGMVC-005S.JPGMVC-005S.JPGMVC-009S.JPGMVC-007S.JPGMVC-003S.JPGMVC-002S.JPG

    I


  7. Gay,

    My stand from Ron's Tools has an arm that raises up to tip the tree at different angles. The actual top doesn't swivel like the Weaver model. The Weaver pivots in two directions. The arm is an OK feature, but not an absolute requirement. There is not a wooden stand that raises up and pivots without raising the base. Millions of saddles have been built on them. If I needed to tilt the wooden stand, I put a something under the front or back.

    The biggest reason I had two drawdowns of different heights was to make the different things easier. The lower stand was good for shaping ground seats and doing fork covers and cantles. The tall one was good for sewing horns and cantles, installing strings/conchos, stuff I would have been bent over in one postion for a time on the lower one.

    One thing I would do if I was making my own. Make a contoured top to set the tree in. A rocking tree is exasperating. The shape will hold better. The Weaver has a flat plank with some kind of rupperized cover. Trees rock, and slip occasionally. One of my friends says always at the worst time.

    I think I can do the tilting stand thing. I bought the hydraulic stand for 20 bucks, and found a pivoting, tilting table that I can canabalize to get the joints to build the articulating part of the stand. I should adjust up to 20+ inches, rotate, and tilt.

    I just got the first saddle tree I want to work on today so I hope they send the parts for the stand quickly! I am starting with a mexican saddle tree. I ordered it from mexico with mule bars. It seems to fit my mule pretty good. I just cant wait to get started! Course its nothing like the video I bought on saddle construction so I am going to be flying blind! Wish me luck and thanks again for all of your advise. I will post pics of the stand when I get it built.


  8. Gay,

    The pictured stand is 46" high I think. I originally made one out of a saddle rack that was 39" high. Between the two, I was able to do what I needed without excess bending. It was nice having the height differences. The issue was that I had two drawdowns, they took up twice as much room, I was always moving from one stand to the other to do what I needed more comfortably, and it there was always a saddle on the other stand. This spring I got a hydraulic stand and would not go back. I sold the lower wooden one, and kept the tall one to set stirrup leathers on repair saddles, or other minor things if the hydraulic was being used. It is still out in the shed I stuck it in. Makes a dandy rack for saddle blankets and pads at the moment.

    I looked at those hydraulic stands online and they look great! I can see how having an adjustable height is advantageous. I just cant justify spending that much money without knowing if I am capable of actually building a saddle. I did find a hydraulic chair base on ebay for 20 bucks. I think I'm going to try and make my own stand with that. Do you use the tilt feature very much? Would you go to the trouble to try to add that or just go with a plain stand?


  9. Gay,

    The metal combs like Greg is describing are pretty easy to adjust, you can just step on the bar and kick it over into wherever you want. Most any welding shop should be able to make one up for you if you don't have the tools.

    I made mine a little different on the wooden stands. I have attached some pics. The bar hinges off the back. I drilled a series of holes in the front. I put a gatepost bolt or piece of rod through the holes over top of the bar, and then stick a wedge in over the bar/under the rod to provide tension. The further you pound it in, the tighter the tension. Not as quick to adjust, but these parts are all available at the hardware store or lumberyard.

    That one looks like something I can do! Any idea of how tall to make it? I'd hate to build it and find out its too uncomfortable to use!

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