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Here is a link to a better manual of the same machine except it is white in color.http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/211W155.pdf The needle bar on some machines have no scribe lines but this is not a major problem.Page 8 of the above manual tells how to set the needle bar height without the marks being preseent. What I do is put the needle in the lowest position. Scribe a line with a carbide scribe (as the needle bar is hardened) right at the maciine frame. You can paint nail polish or something that will let you see the line. Without moving the needle bar mark another line 3/32" (2.4mm) below lhis line. I stack a bunch of feeler gages set to that thickness and scribe another line. Somthimes you can't see the lines on machines that have them engraved on the shaft, but you can feel them by running a finger nail up and down the shaft near the top. From looking at your pictures you don't have a tension problem because your stiches look fine except for the bird nesting which occurs randomly. Since most stitches are fine and only a few mess up, your machine is setting on the edge of an out of spec adjustment. Most likely the distance setting from hook point and needle. This is verified by the fact that the hook appears to catch your thread not in the loop but in the thread strand itself thus shredding it. I mentioned the the hook and bobin case for play. There should be very little if any. What is it on our machine? I stiil want you to remove the bobbin case before timing to check it for any defects that could cause binding of the case to hook and look for thread wrapped around the shaft which there should be for all the crashes your machine has made. You will remove the three little screws and throat plate and feet. You can rotate forward and backward of the flywheel to get the screws in a suitable position. Don't be intimidated by this process as you have the book. Print it out and when we get your machiine running we will test your machine by sewing a binding on your manual so it does not fall apart. Book binding is something that can be very handly for keeping three ring punched hole paper bound together so the sheet don't pull apart. Also you could sew a leather cover on your manual. Remember this. Fixing the machine should be easy. It's learning to use it that the journey and that's the journey I'm on.

That is too funny, you think that's a small screw wait till I have you tighten the bobbin case screw. I removed two last night and changed bobbin case springs even put on a head mounted magnifier. Get ready.(smile) not that bad but you do need a few tools, but very few at that. Go to ACE hardware, or a sewing machine store. Make sure you magnetize your screw driver tip also or you'll spend all you time picking up screw that can generally make their way into the oil pan. I also believe a must have tool are the small tweezers with the curved ends like doctors use when handling thread when doing internal surgery. Handy for me as I have hugh hands to match size 14 shoes. They use to have a set of screw drivers that fit inside a screw driver and on and on till the smallest required a magnifier to see and too small to handle. I'm still looking for my set but someone glum onto them. Also a very long narrow blade 12 " or longer is very helpful as it lets you get the handle out of the way for a more perpendicular angle for foot plate, throat place etc. Next buy a ream of 24 LB. printer paper for sewing and using as a feeler gage in case you don't have a set. Each sheet is .004" thick 100 sheets .400 or just under 7/16" etc. Eric gave a very good order of operations formate that should help you as you adjust your machine,however, the first thing I would like you to do is 1) turn off machine insert on sheet of paper under pressers 2) with needle out of the machine and no thread turn flywheel while slightly tugging on the paper. It should be pull through the machine and if you tug too hard on paper to resist feed, the machine should tear it. If you are using smooth bottom presser feet you should see no teeth indentations on needle side of paper or very faint ones from feed dogs. If the paper does not feed or you can pull back on the paper your presser bar height need to be set following the manual. The timing also requires that you set the stitch length to zero. I time with the largest needle to be used which is a number 26. I seldom use a needle smaller than 21 anyway or 69 thread. Also when feeding the paper make mental note as to how high above the paper the presser and alternating presser rise. this Roze is also adjustable. 3) Put number 92 thread in your machine and set stitch length to 5spi or 6spi. Turn screw on bobbin case nearest the thread outlet all the way in, set top tension nearly all way out maybe a few turns in and with top tension knob only. Start sewing the sheet of paper. The thread is thicker than one sheet of paper but you should get good stitches. Do you?

You will be able able to get your machine running I'm sure. Probably with little cost. I am headed to Ralph's Industrial Sewing in Denver today to try and talk Joe into sponsoring a test I'm doing, which consist of modifying the bobbin case for the 211 and its clones. This has allowed me to run 346 top and 207 thead on the bottom on a 211U566. I'm told you can't do it but you can. And guess what? You can sew it without turning the hand wheel with low tension on top thread using as Quiet Sew servo set on a low 200RPM (this is the lowest torque range for a servo). All with a 135x16 needle size 24. I need to get a 25 needle so as not to frey the thread. I've seen them on Ebay but not in stores. By the way that's penetrating a piece of hard leather 1/8" thick. Think belt. Regards again Grant

Here is a link to the service manual for your machine. I have a 211U566 which in similar to yours. http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/221G155_211G156.pdf. Look this over carefully. I see no reason your machine won't sew the material in your picture. I sew 3/8 " hard leather from time to time with this machine using standard 135-16 needles. Your machine came set to have 1/2" presser lift with the knee lifter. If not adjust it to spec. Ensure your needle is not bent. You should have little to no play when you wiggle the bobbin case in the hook assemble. Check by putting your finger on the bobbin latch and wiggle. If there is a lot of play it can cause some of the problems, but becomes more pronounced when shifting to reverse which your machine does not have. You should also pull on the thread with the presser feet down, but not threaded through the needle. Using low thread tension you should be able to pull the thread by hand. If the thread acts like it wants to break using say 92 thread. Stop you have a tension problem and you may need to replace your tension assembly. They are less than $30.00. Remove your bobbin case (remove three tiny screws) and inspect where the thread exits the bobbin case and ensure no burrs and that no thread is wrapped around the hook shaft, Also inspect the bobbin tension spring these seldom need adjusting unless you are running very large thread. You mention you are using a needle 3/16" longer than standard. Your machine has two engraved lines on the needle bar. When your machine has the needle in the lowest position you should see these two scribed line. They are used to set the needle bar height when using the standard 135x16,17 needle system. They will not work for the needle you are using and you will need to scribe new ones should you choose to continue to use your current needle which I see no need for in the projects in you photos. The rise from lowest position to where the timing is set is 3/32" for the 135X16 needle system. About 1/16" for the 134X35 system and I'm not sure what it is for the system you are using. One other thing to check which also can cause thread damage as you show, is the hook height. This determines the clearance between the bobbin case stop and the throat plate. The spec is .032" (0.8mm), if it is too much less the thread will bind when trying to pass between the bobbin case stop and throat plate and shread thread. You will also have your situation if the hook guard is not set to keep the needle from bending and the hook point from catching the thread. One other thing to watch out for. Your machine can handle a 135x17 needle up to number 26. Very few presser feet ,however, will allow a needle that size to pass through some won't even allow a number 23 needle to pass through let alone the thread and needle. Make certain the hole in you presser foot is large enough for the needle and thread you are using. But before doing anything change or needle. Regards, Grant