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sfmiaw

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Posts posted by sfmiaw


  1. I've been trying to find some videos of the Tandy Deluxe model and haven't been having much luck. I have a couple questions as well if anyone has experience on one of these.

    I would like to be able to split leather down to around the 2oz range for use in wallets. Typically the largest pieces would be maybe 4" wide and 8" long. I have a lot of 4-6 oz leather that I would like to split down to 2 oz or so. Does anyone know if the tandy machine is capable of making that sort of cut reasonably well, or do I need to be looking at something a little higher end?

    Also, how sturdy is the tandy model? I found some videos of the weaver heritage which seems to be at least vaguely similar in design and it seems to be a very solid tool.

    I do not have this particular model, I do have a 6" skiver that is a knock-off version of it. However, I can comment on the 6" skivers in general. While tapering strap ends is fine (1-2"), I have found that splitting/skiving anywhere close to 4-5" with these is VERY leather temper dependent. If you are using anything sort of mild to soft leather, then I have found that the 6" skivers will "resist" and stretch it out (this includes some tooling leather) which will ruin the texture and uniformity of your project. (or maybe my blade isn't sharp enough).IMO, it would be much easier if you just bought 2oz leather instead of splitting it, but otherwise it would depend on the firmness if the leather you are using.


  2. Problem with cutting the feet short is, will the leather still be pulled through under the feet.

    If your needle foot doesn't have a slot in it, very carefully file a small "V" notch directly in front alignment with the needle and exactly in the center "Left to Right"

    on the top of the needle foot. If your foot is black the file will show a bright line. If the foot is already bright metal, using a permanent marker with a fine point, make a thin line inside the little groove you made with the file.

    BTW: Use a three cornered file and don't do the filing while the foot is on the machine.

    ferg

    Thanks for responding Ferg,

    I considered filing a notch, but my estimations on where the needle punches the hole is still off. I'm sure with enough practice this will be a non-issue, but until then, I hate it when I ruin a perfectly good strap due solely to this issue. I think a cut-off needle foot would still move the material since the strap pieces have already been glued together, and the pressor foot is still there (smoothed with JB Weld so it doesn't mark the leather). I was just hoping that there was a commercial remedy available since my only metal cutting tool is a dremel.

    One of the many presser foot sets I bought along the way has a split inside foot, where there is a saw cut from the front to the round needle hole. This allows you to see the stitch line.

    You can just buy another standard foot set and grind off the section in front of the hole. Leave just enough material in front to hold down the leather, then cut a slot in the front center as Ferg described. Then grind off the right toe and shorten the left toe. Round the fronts of the inside and outside feet.

    I also bought a set that is meant for use with edge folders. The inside foot is stubby and very wide. The outer foot is left toe only and shorter than standard.

    Thanks for replying Wiz,

    Can you post a pic of the feet that you mentioned?

    I will probably end up experimenting by grinding/cutting a spare needle foot. I'll let you all know how it goes. I imagine that my uses differ from most of the other members of this board, but it's always good to share.


  3. Hi everyone,

    I was wondering if there is a needle pressor foot available that is "stubby" or "short" (for walking foot machines), by which I mean that you can see the needle as it is puncturing the leather? I am having a hard time determining whether or not i need to make another stitch, or a half stitch at the point of my straps and it is very inconvenient to lift the feet to check on the needle position in the leather. I would rather buy one than try to saw my current needle foot in half.

    Thanks,

    Frank


  4. Some more information, for those who care to know;

    Consew 206RB-5 is the newest, current model.

    Consew 206RB-4 has TWO different models, one with a serial number prefix "TH", the other, "SH". Many screw pitches and diameters are different, all over the machine, as well as some parts.

    Difference between either 206RB-4 machines and 206RB-5 machine is that the 206RB-5 does have a Push in lock for the stitch length dial. This is because some 206RB machines without this push in dial would jump out of adjustment at high speeds.

    Also (one more thing, I can't help myself here) Consew 206RB, RB-1, & RB-2 have a reverse lever that lifts up, and the stitch length is changed here with a ratchet ring and spring and ball to hold this adjustment in place.. The 206RB-3, -4s, & -5 all have the same push down lever for reverse with the stitch length dial.

    Thank you for the detailed response!


  5. Hi everyone!

    This site has some wonderful resources and some great contributors! I don't think I would have started my little leather sewing facination without your help, so for that, I thank you all!

    I recently lucked into a Consew 206rb-4 and I was wondering what the difference is between version 4 and 5?

    Also, if anyone happens to have a pdf manual for the Consew 206rb-4 or a link, I would greatly appreciate it!

    Thanks!

    Frank


  6. Hi everyone,

    I'm considering the Consew CP206, 206rb-5 and Thompson pw-400 sewing machines for straight stitching veg tan and oil-tanned leather, up to 10oz (4-5mm). Basically I'm making leather watch straps and dog collars.

    I've done some searching on the site but my head hurts now from the effort so I thought I'd post to see if someone would be kind enough to help with some advice about my specific issues.

    I think I read somewhere that the Consew CP206 (walking foot portable) is a more modern version of the Thompson pw-400. Is that correct? If that is true, will both handle what I'm trying to do? Furthermore, will these machines take 3-cord linen (#92/#138 equivalent) or even 4 cord linen (#207)? If they are not nearly identical, then which machine would be more appropriate? Lastly, would I have to "modify" the feed dogs and walking feet if the leather marks easily?

    I know that the 206rb-5 is the better choice, but price-wise and space-wise, I would prefer the portable (~$400) if it can do the job.

    Thanks.

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