Roger J

Thanks for the vinegaroon information, it is something I really want to try someday. Had I had some on hand, it is probably what I would have used to cover-up this stain. **** Here is a picture of the final clean-up. There is still a bit of a shading effect, but once it is oiled-up it should be practically invisible. I'm really super happy with the results and I really want to thank all the folks that helped. It took three applications of the solution (with a Q-tip) waiting about 20 minutes between each coat for the stain to disappear. It wasn't strong enough to get it in one shot, but I prefered going slow. Question: Should one neutralize the OA with a solution of water and baking soda? I just wiped down the area with water a few times and am wondering if it is enough?

Thanks Sona, all I can say is my lesson is learned! Last night I picked up some Barkeepers Friend, and went to the pharmacy to see if they had OA. Discovered that the common name for OA is "Salts of Lemon"...which I had at home! Since the damage was done, I decided to try a bunch of solutions on different spots. Vineger, diluted laundry bleach, and rubbing alcohal did nothing at all. OA, mixed in 1 teaspoon per pint ratio, worked the best. Barkeepers' Friend (which is 1/10 OA), was mixed with a 10 teaspoon per pint ratio, didn't work as well as OA. Lemon juice worked only on light stuff. I used a toothpick to stroke the solutions on. Repeated every 15 minutes, 3 times total. The first picture is the untouched stain, the second is right after the last application of the solutions (while still wet), and the third is after it dried (before it was rinsed off) sorry for the picture quality. I'll do a final cleaning tonight.

Thanks for the Barkeepers Friend suggestion, I'll pick some up tonight on the way home. I did dust off the leather beforhand, but probably not the piece of plywood used to weight it down...d'oh!

NOOOOOOOOO! This quarter sized stain developed in only five hours. I was wetforming some 8 ounce veg, so the leather was saturated with water, and was held in place with a weighted down piece of plastic covered plywood. Realistically, can oxalic acid work on such a bad stain (I'd have to order it), or should I just dye the thing black?

Normally I would have tested it out myself but am running low on leather and a bit pressed for time. Would I be correct in assuming the dye+finish leather prior to making holes is generally the preferred method?

Let's say one the made the holes for a saddle stitch, then dyed the leather a dark color, waited a full 24 hours and then proceeded to stitch with white thread...how likely is it that the thread would pick up stain and become "unclean" over a 6" run? Dying the holes prior to stitching would be an attempt at preventing undyed leather from being apparent. materials: -3 layers of 8oz veg glued together (9 mm total) -white braided polyester thread, waxed with beeswax

OOPS! By "it" I meant your slicking suggestion.

Hey...it worked! Luckily the leather wasn't cut. It looked more like a heavy crate had been dragged on it. I can still very slightly see it, but that is probably because I know where to look. Jwalker, what do you mean by "rue"? From the prop reference, I take it you mean sand or grind; is this corrrect?

I recently purchased a good sized piece of veg tan leather scrap whose surface is a bit scuffed-up (sorry no pictures). The leather is slated to be wetformed, dyed, and treated with beeswax. I'm wondering if perhaps it would be a good idea to gently sand the surface with ultra fine sandpaper (1000 grit) to evenout the surface first? Would it give a slightly suede-like finish?

Yuck! Luckily I just have a few pieces. I'll soak a small piece and see what happens. If worst comes to past, it can always be used to make vise/clamp pads for woodworking.

Thanks folks, now would "mossed" or "pasted" leather be OK to use to make sheaths and holsters? (i.e. could it cause corrosion like chrome leather?)

I was going through what was supposed to be a veg tan scrap bin when I found a few interesting/odd pieces. The young lady that was there couldn't tell me anything about them. The flesh side appears to be coated with white "paint". It doesn't flake off, it isn't floury, and looking at the raw edge of the skin looks like it was part of the tanning process and not painted on. Anyone have any clue as to what it could be? It is slightly over 1/8" thick and fairly rigid. Here are some pictures: flesh side skin side:

Did it another two times using flannel rags, and that seems to have done the trick. I'll check up on it in a few weeks to see how it's doing.

I've used Sno-Seal on many different items, and this briefcase is the only one that has had this problem. What is weird is that it was fine for several months after initial application, then sat unused for a few years. Perhaps the summer heat caused the wax to ooze out. I'll reheat and buff again and see how things turn out.

If you happen to have deep pockets: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32189&cat=1,43456,32189

Thanks TR. I tried that last night with a hair dryer, and it seemed to have done the job, but this morning it was still slightly sticky. I do have a heat gun but am a bit reticent to use it on leather...I think I'll give the hair dryer one last shot tonight.

A few years ago I applied Sno-Seal to a black leather briefcase (usual way, with heat from a hair dryer). I recently just dug it out of the closet and found that it had become very sticky. Is there a safe solvent that could be used?

Thanks again Wiz, if it's just a seamstress model, I won't bother with it.

Thanks Wiz, I guess the chances of the machine being a leather varient are pretty slim as I don't remember it being all that large. Gonna have to wait for our next visit to find out.

We will be going there during the holidays, and I would like to ask for it, but only if it is useful for leatherwork. Reading several threads here, it is clear that not all Singers would be good for leather. Is there a list of mid 1930's Singer model numbers somewhere that identifies which models were appropriate for leather? Are the model numbers in plain sight? Any visual cues that would identify a model as good/bad for leatherwork? The only information I have on it is that it probably dates to the 30's, came in a fold-out cabinet, has an electric motor, and has no pedal but rather a lever activated by the side of the user's knee. Ideally I'd like to ID it discretely, without getting on all fours, and only bother asking for it if it suits my needs.

Hi Brent, I too am looking into these types of clamps. Though I do not have the exact information on the particular brand of clamp you mention, I did find some other useful links. Here is a link to a PDF of a clamp with measurements: http://www.crafts-de..._capacities.pdf And here is a video of another type of clamp in use: (it is in French though, but you can clearly see how it is used) Hope this helps, Roger

Thanks RLD, I didn't even know there existed such a thing as a "pull the dot" snap. Googling led me to this excellent video on the matter...the music used is a little dramatic though : For my needs right now, I'm looking for the regular snaps.

I can get snap buttons locally from several different stores (hardware, craft, sewing, department, etc). Are there any brands to look for or avoid? Some are in loose bins devoid of packaging, so are there any markings I should look for?

I'm a brand new newbie beginning beginner, so my opinions are not based on any experience. What if you wash your leather seperatly a few times and see if at some point it stops reacting. If that point is ever reached, then try sewing it in place and repeat washing experiment.

Thanks guys, good thing I checked here first. For the amout of time it takes to make something, better use the right materials. So I guess I should start liking white stitching for a while