pitchdev

Just spoke with Bob at Toledo Industrial - He is setting me up with a new bobbin//shuttle assembly and the screw I need. I previously purchased a servo motor and a few other parts from him (belt, knee lifter, needles, thread...etc) He has been an amazing help to me and I recommend his services most highly.

Ok, I've learned some things since my last post. All the shafts seem OK with very little or no slop. I had a loose screw on the end cover plate - the first 3-4 threads are damaged on the cast body of the machine....then I learned that these things are no standard thread pitch! If the screw was just a little longer, I could still catch good threads, but as it is, it just spins. So, I've spent a few days looking for a screw that is 5mm longer that is the same crazy size/pitch that these things use. Any suggestions on sourcing a screw would be appreciated. Now I installed a new needle, (old)bobbin case/bobbin and begin to re-thread the machine. When hand cranking it to position, the needle contacts the bobbin case. I notice that the "notch finger" will not stay in the notch at the top of the shuttle race. After i put the finger back in the top slot, crank a few times, it walks itself backward and down -- until there is no hole for the needle to go through any more. It looks to me like the bobbin case itself might be worn -- picture attached. Is that center post "grabber" meant to be ramped? The center stud of the shuttle does have a decent amount of sloppiness to it....normal? Is this a common problem? How to fix?

I should add that I wasn't sewing anything, and no thread was on the machine. I was just running it dry. When it 'stopped hard' it made the whole machine shift on the table, sliding it back toward the hinges enough to loosen the belt -- making the belt slip. Now, I have removed the end plate and gone over the machine with Bob from Toledo, there is no slop, and there are no frozen bushings on the main arm mechanisms. It is oiled. There are no visible obstructions in the head, no big marks or gouges on the metal. At one point, the needle broke -- seemingly for no reason. Could the needle be hitting some part of the bobbin mechanism? Timing of that off? "the presser feet are set to maximum alternating lift" How do I adjust this setting? I appreciate the replies.

When I hand crank or use the motor, every 10-20 stitches, the machine makes a clunk and seems to come to an early stop on something very solid - I can then crank it back and forth a little and it frees up and sews fine for another ... indefinite period... then, chug chug chug -- clunk , rock it around with the hand wheel until it frees up and it will go again. My machine hasn't been oiled or cleaned up in quite some time (I just purchased it and am just getting it set up) ...so I'm hoping a little TLC will smooth it out, but I'm not that optimistic. Could somebody advise what's going on?

Thanks Wiz. I found another spool with a label DB92 Tex90 - Bonded Poly. That should be pretty good for my uses, but now I have to question my bobbin thread. I have a bunch of pre wound bobbins that say D92, but don't call out the thread type -- Is there a way to tell if it's linen or poly? Looks to me like it's likely linen. Does someone sell pre wound bobbins of 138 bonded in size 15/A? Another question -- does my needle thread need to be a size bigger than my bobbin thread for best results?

Well, I went ahead and picked up a Consew 118 -- it is a little smaller//lighter than my ideal, but to save 1000 dollars for a new business is pretty key. I think it will fit my needs while I learn to sew and make prototypes. It came with a box of thread and bobbins....was previously used for vinyl upholstery. It came with a bunch of needles also: 140/22 Pfaff 160 with a diamond shaped point Singer 22 160/23 130 Schmetz 140 ...all randomly in a little box. Judging by these needle sizes, they were using some thread at least size 138. All the pre wound bobbins are D-92 One of the spools of thread still has a label and attached is a picture of this. Could someone advise what size thread this works out to in numbers I can understand? From what I can tell I think it's between 138 and 207 somewhere. I am now looking to get a nice slow servo motor, a knee lifter, and a few needles//threads for it. Interestingly, it is a Consew machine, with a Singer table, and a Pfaff spool holder.

Thanks Tejas -- OK - as a general reference I'll list what I know about this machine It has a walking foot. It will hold needle sizes 14-25. That should allow thread up to 207, but it is listed as a light-medium weight machine in it's description in the user manual. I'll hope to run 138 in it. The owner of it says it has reverse -- but I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. Max stitch length is 4 stitches per inch. (6.35mm) Questions: It uses a 6018 bobbin -- is this a big (M) bobbin? Servo conversion info ?

Thanks Red, I found that thread earlier, but had to look again to see that he lists the thread sizes -- Thanks! Anyone have any experience sewing with one of these things? Could someone recommend a servo motor that would fit?

Hi All, I'm looking at a Consew 118 for sale locally in Portland. I haven't been able to find much info on this machine. The seller says it's a walking foot and has reverse. I'm wondering what the biggest thread size I can use with this machine? About how high does the foot lift? I would plan to put a servo motor on it. Would it be good for my purposes of sewing webbing and 1.2mm leather? Thanks!

Thanks Eric, you seem to be pretty damn knowledgeable about the stuff I'm trying to do and I see you're just north of me a bit in WA. Would you have any interest in mentoring me in my sewing pursuits? What kind of stuff was the factory with 20 of these machines making?

Hi All, Wondering if I could get opinions and info on this machine. I've found the manual here: http://needlefeed.com/the-first-3-pages/ I'm using it to connect pieces of 1" wide .07" thick nylon webbing together, and to add 1.0mm leather on top of this webbing in some locations. I see that it can go up to a 22 needle, so it should be able to run 138 thread -- which is as big as I'll need -- might go smaller. Please let me have your thoughts. What is a good price? Will this fit my needs? Thanks!

Could someone recommend a good older X tacker that would be good for my purpose of connecting 1" polyester webbing back to itself? I spoke with the webbing manufacturer, and they use T92 bonded poly thread in a box x pattern....I think they're probably using a Brother 430 or the like. In my readings of the Parachute Manual, that seems appropriate, but going up to 138 would be ideal for some situations. I'd like an affordable x tacker that doesn't have all the bells and whistles -- If I need speed control later, i'll upgrade.

I'm in Portland. My wifey grew up here and dragged me out from my homeland of beer and cheese!

I went to the Multnomah central library reference section yesterday and had a look at the book. That was the only library in the 4 counties surrounding Portland that had a copy. I definitely took some notes and got some new ideas...but much of the book was on stuff pertaining to parachutes only. Was just googling some terms I didn't understand (orthogonal seam anyone??) and found that the whole book is available online here: http://books.google.com/books?id=2PopFBjLZV8C&pg=PA336&lpg=PA336&dq=bias+seam+vs+orthogonal&source=bl&ots=lduVDeBY4U&sig=J-BwSSH1FONdI-P55ftxMyCE2Fw&hl=en&sa=X&ei=yriLUuqUGsfxiwLK64DwDA&ved=0CEMQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=bias%20seam%20vs%20orthogonal&f=false

wow -- thought I knew my web lingo -- I had to look that one up milzed: To revisit one's past postings on online web message forums, and retroactively delete the text, replacing it with minimally requisite text allowed by the forum's software, such as "...". One purpose of milzing one's past postings is to erase evidence of such postings, so as to remove the ability of others to quote you.

That stuff looks awesome! How did you emboss that basket weave pattern onto the canteen leather? I'd like to see some pictures of that process!

That is a rare book -- my librarian searched for it internationally -- only 88 libraries in the world have it. There is one copy in Portland, but they won't let it out of the reference section. They're requesting a library loan for a copy for me -- maybe it will come from the Naval aeronautics institute in China (they've got it)

Thanks much for that recommendation TXAG - I'd have never found that or thought of that. Will look into it.

Titanium and Kevlar -- you're speaking my language! Would you say that a box x sewn (nicely) by hand VS a few straight line bar tacks would be much of a strength difference in a connection between two pieces of webbing? What would you say is the ideal thread size and type for attaching webbing? I guess that's more of a question about rigging than leather working -- but if somebody knows..?!? I have a pretty good local sewing machine mechanic guy who is helping me out -- will check to see what he has for tackers today. Picture is how local MC jacket repair lady has been sewing my proto's...have separated one of these.

What model of multi tasking Brother would you recommend and what is the max thread size? What kind of price range for a used one? Do you know of any machine that will make a box x with 207 thread? What old straight bar tack machine would sew with the heaviest thread? Thanks for all the info -- starting to look like the regular lock stitch machine and some time/patience/skill might be the best solution for now. until I can afford this one - ha!

I searched and found another post where you recommend a Singer 269 to another member -- would this be a good model for my needs? http://www.usa-deale...INE_p_1779.html Then I get a different specific cam and other parts to make the box x pattern size I want? Also thread size -- I believe I'll need some pretty big thread as I want to get some very strong connections on my webbing...maybe 207 thread? I should add that I'm working on prototyping now -- no immediate plans for production -- but I will be load testing my straps, so the strength needs to be representative of what I could expect for production manufacturing. And yes, I'm doing this for a living now! But I'm just getting going and don't have a trust fund!

Hi all, I've been appreciating all the info in this forum, so thought I'd introduce myself. My company Pitch Development Inc. was started a year ago as a contract design and development firm --- and also to bring some new products of our own to market. My background is in motorcycle apparel -- recently I've been working for Icon Motosports developing their Icon1000 line of jackets and footwear. http://icon1000.com I've spend a lot of time in factories in China, but never done much more than tell somebody to sew stuff for me! -- never done it myself I'm shopping for a machine and learning all I can before I shell out the bucks. anhow, thanks for the help! Branden Loveland

Hi, First post here and I'm dragging up an old thread -- I'm new to the sewing world (at least the DIY sewing world) and I'm thinking I need an automatic bar tacker that ideally sews the box x pattern like this one does. I'm sewing leather (1.2mm) onto poly webbing for some custom motorcycle tie down straps I'm making up. I'll need to go through 2 layers of that leather, webbing, and velcro. I'd ideally like to get a machine that can sew straight seams and also do the pattern stitches -- is this possible? I was looking at a Consew 206 RB5, but I'll be bar tacking for more than half my work...so please advise if I need to prepare myself to buy two machines or there is one good one to do it all! I really appreciate all the info in this forum --- this stuff isn't very accessible for the newbies!