1sam16
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Posts posted by 1sam16
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Thank's Bob! BTW this is Greg from Grand Rapids...is this picture the area that you're talking about? If so this all might be all my fault...When I bought the machine the reverse handle when released was banging against the body of the machine and chipping the paint...so I backed it off:)...so if I open it open it back up again is there a way to adjust the over-all movement of the reverse handle so that I maintain a 5spi max stitch and yet keep the handle from continuing to damage the machine? Greg
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Still working on it...here are a couple pictures. Thought I had found a lead in an old 111w navy manual...but no luck...the 111w is built differently...Could it be that like the Juki 563, there is a way to check forward stitch length as I'm adjusting the reverse length? I included a link to a diagram that Bob Kovar posted some time ago...in diagram 2-a there is a hole on the main body right by the knee lift linkage...inside there is a screw....wondering what that adjusts...yes, I'm at that point lol!...any of you have access to a good service manual?
Thanks again!
Greg
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Thanks!
Right now I'm just sewing through binding material to test the machine...I overlap it several times but its less than an 1/8 of an inch thick. I have another 226 that stitches a perfect 5spi stitch in the same fabric.
Greg
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Hello-
I've benefited in many ways reading your posts...thank you! I just picked up a older Consew 226r. It stitches pretty well but I can't get it to produce its largest stitch (5 spI)...I have the stitch length on 5 and adjusted all the way out...the biggest stitch I can get it to make is 6spi...is there a simple adjustment/solution? thanks in advance!
Greg
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BTW, if you are making adjustments on any 206RB series, this is the book use here;
http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/Consew206RB-5_SeikoSTH-8BLD-3.pdf
Perfect timing Gregg..I'm really amazed at how generous all of you are with your advice! Thank You!
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Wiz, that's fantastic news....thank you! I ordered a new feed dog and tensioning discs from Bob Saturday. When I get them installed I'll fine tune until I get it right.
Greg
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Can't see the hook in relation to the eye of the needle. Remove the feed dog and upload it.
try this, http://youtu.be/Hqej3rFlD4w
Wiz if this doesnt work, I can put some better lights on it, and shoot it again:)
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OK…here is what I found.
I have another video with the feed dog removed should I upload that one too?
THANK YOU!
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Do you realize that the timing is different in reverse than in forward? If your machine is marginally timed in forward, it may be on the brink in reverse. The simplest way to find out is to remove the throat plate and feeder, then rotate the hand wheel until the needle ascends and the pickup hook intersects it. At that point, press or throw the reverse lever and watch the needle move backwards. Is the hook still arriving above the eye, or is it almost inline with it?
You can adjust the timing by either advancing the hook, or lowering the needle bar. Try one or the other and see if that improves the situation.
Thx Wizcrafts....no I didn't know the timing is different in reverse. Kinda freaking out on the thought of trying to time this machine, but I'll get over it:) I'll take some time later this afternoon and check it out.
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Gave it a look....no difference. I've changed out the needle, thinking it was to small for the polyester t70. Removed the feed dog and inspected it for burs (it's pretty worn, will replace) and have gone through the adjustment possibilities with the tensioning discs (minor grooves...will also replace) I have noticed a light, the only way I can describe it is, an inconsistent "popping" sound in reverse. Like the needle/thread is penetrating differently, maybe pulling up on the fabric differently in reverse.(I am sewing through a laminate sail material so the needle penetration does often make some sound, but this is different in reverse). I did just replace the bobbin case with a more inexpensive alternative, but it looks like its good quality. It is of the variety that has a disc to keep the bobbin from spinning needlessly in the bobbin case. I guess that could also be a factor?
I sure appreciate your help, thank you!
Greg
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Just a guess (and that's ALL it is) - are you moving forward enough to complete the last stitch? That likely affect the tension going back if you diddn't let the last stitch "come around".
On the other hand, for $3C maybe a fella could hand stitch that couple backstitches
Thanks JLSleather... I'll check that out….GJD -
Hello-
After reading a lot on this forum and a long search I just picked up a Consew 206rb-1…I found it with a table and motor for 325. it sews beautifully…but I'm having real trouble with the reverse tension. Sewing forward I get nice clean stitches both on the top and bottom. In reverse I get straight stitches but with consistent knots on the bottom….no loops/bird nests etc….just small knots...I'm kind of at wits end…any suggestions would be great!
THANK YOU!
Greg
226r
in Leather Sewing Machines
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OK… Never mind on my question I just came down to my shop and noticed the handle adjustment on the side of the machine underneath the pulley… Thanks a ton :-)