ToddB 68

Hi All ! I found the answer to my question in post #1 on the Internet. So answers are not really needed now, however, if you have comments, feel free. If you are interested in the subject, it's my pleasure to share the information. Just click-on the following address: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/hl.html Thanks for viewing and I hope you can use the information. ToddB 68

Hi Leatherworkers ! I'm making my own strop and have a board with handle finished and ready to glue-on the leather. I have veg-tanned cowhide and would like to cut a strip of this and process it into simulated horse-butt if that is possible. Can you recommend a process that could be done by the average leatherworker hobbyist ? Thanks, ToddB 68

Hi All ! When I suspect my new post will be long and might exceed the LW program time allowance, I do a draft on WordPad and then save it in my Documents folder, then copy & paste to the new post window. Well, I had the draft below completed back on 3-14-2014, but couldn't get it to copy & paste to a new post window, either by using the tools provided on the window, or by using regular copy & paste methods (highlighting, right-clicking for a drop-down of tool options, etc.). I still couldn't copy & paste today, so just gave up and decided to re-type the whole post over again below. I find great pleasure in writing new stuff, but if it's long, I don't like " re-inventing-the wheel ".. .....guess I'm losing some of my patience at age 73 ! See my post below. ToddB 68 ______________________________________________________________________________ 3-14-2014 Subject: PROPER LEATHER "TEMPER" WHEN TOOLING Dear Friends, I was on page #3 (as of 3-14-2014) of the pinned topic "casing leather", by hidepounder (Bob Park), located here > Leather Board > How Do I Do That ? forum. I had read down this thread page and after finishing northmount's post #44, , I noticed the hyperlink "moistening while tooling" at the bottom and clicked on it. That took me to the "Carving Days" thread started by Randle P. McMurphy, June 28, 2012 at the "Tooling, Stamping & Carving Leather" board > "Floral and Sheridan Carving" forum. After reading down the first page of "Carving Days", my interest and curiosity were particularly aroused by posts #4 and #9 by username kseidel (Keith Seidel). I thought these posts were very well written by-the-way, as he explained the importance of creating and maintaining proper leather "temper" when tooling. Of course, reduced to simple terms, "temper" means hardness or softness. I'm working with 12oz veg-tanned cowhide and plan to do some creasing and stamping after casing the leather in accordance with Bob Park's tutorial mentioned above. (QUESTION at this paragraph) : Since I'm just getting started in Leatherwork and haven't actually done any creasing or stamping, could someone explain to me what evidence I should watch for to determine that the leather needs more water , i.e. color, feel or other manifestation ? My project doesn't doesn't require much tool work, so I might be able to complete all of this tool work in a single session before more water is required. Nevertheless, I would like to have prior knowledge before starting. Thanks in advance for the help. ToddB 68

northmount, I'm trying to make sure I get this straight. In your post #15, re using Mop & Glo as an edge finish, please clarify,.... do you mean no wax, no edge dye and sometimes no gum trag are used, i.e. do you mean none of these three are used prior to applying the M&G ? ToddB 68

Northmount and Viewers, Click-on the attachment to see my post. The original post I submitted was the same text, but for some reason the website program displayed it with all the codes for paragraph spacing, italicizing, quotation marks and emoticons (Smileys), etc....messy looking ! So I saved to WordPad, made corrections, filed in Documents folder and attached here. (I saved to WordPad right away, to make certain it didn't vanish, which has happened on previous occasions.) ToddB 68 Post on 4-6-2014 to northmount at Leatherworker..rtf

northmount, I've been pondering the caution you included in post #10, i.e. "I would be careful of how waxy the burnished edge is as most finishes don't like to stick to wax." As you might recall, I will be following the "Finishing Edges" seven-step process by Bob Park (hidepounder) and it involves the application of Fiebing's glycerin bar soap at step #3 and yellow paste saddle soap at step #4, as well as common paraffin at step #6. These three products are applied by either rubbing-in well, burnishing, or a combination of burnishing and polishing with a soft dry cloth respectively. Do you think if I just apply a modest amount of paraffin at the polishing step #6 and then burnish and polish with a soft dry cloth, that the Mop & Glo will adhere well ? Below is the most relevant part of the definition for paraffin, that I got from Merriam Webster online, copied here for reference. (So your caution was/is very apropos !) Paraffin : " a waxy crystalline flammable substance obtained especially from distillates of wood, coal, petroleum or shale oil that is a complex mixture of hydrocarbons and is used chiefly in coating and sealing, etc., etc.." Thanks in advance Tom, for your reply to my above question. ToddB 68

northmount, Hi Tom ! ........Thanks for the feedback on Mop & Glo .........and the caution about applying to waxy edges. ToddB 68

Tom, Many thanks for the Mop & Glo information in your post #8. Have you used it on leather edges before ? Did you like it's performance ? ToddB 68

Red Cent, With reference to your post #6, have you used the Mop & Glo product and do you still have the bottle ? If so, could you scan and attach a picture of the front so I can read the label ? That would identify the type for me. ( I didn't understand what product you were referring to when you said "It is a proprietary product. You may have to make contact." I guess you were referring to Mop& Glo, but not sure.). BTW, I think the product you "use often if an acceptable edge is accomplished is Fiebings Brown or Black Edge Enamel.", is shown in my attachment below. I got on the Zack White site and copied this image of Fiebing's Edge Enamel (4oz) part number C23604 and his description was "A heavy bodied resin based edge finish. Best when applied after smoothing the edges to produce a clean, smooth glossy edge. Edge enamel can be thinned with water. Stocked in Black (01) and Brown (02)." However, his minimum order for product is $15.00 and Standard Shipping to my Zip Code is $14.00, for a total of 29.00.....too costly for a beginner like me. Thanks anyhow for the suggestion. So, back to the questions in my first paragraph.....what say you ? Appreciate your help ! ToddB 68

Red Cent, I appreciate the explanation of your process as conveyed in post #4, but as indicated in my post #3, I am just asking which type of Mop & Glo you were previously suggesting. There are many different types, each chemically designed for a specific task. You can Google "Mop & Glo" and click-on a Link and see the product display, to see what I mean. In your previous post #4, you mentioned an acrylic product #250 from Zack White, but didn't know the exact name off hand. So I spent quite a bit of time going through Zack's sub-categories, down-loading and attaching (6) pictures (The 6th "Fiebing's Leather Sheen" didn't upload correctly.) below of what I thought might be possibilities for you to look at and then advise which one, if any, of these is what you were referring to (Sorry for that mouthful ). Thanks for the continued help and I look forward to your reply. ToddB 68 Fiebings-Leather-Sheen-4-oz--C25704_p_2011.htm

Red Cent, Thanks for your feedback on Fiebing's Dura Edge ! I take it you're not real enthused with it. I'm new to leatherwork and have the leather as well as all tools and supplies needed to make my first project, a sheath, except I'm still trying to decide on a final finish for the leather edges. I plan to follow Bob Park's "Finishing Edges" process, except I will be substituting Black Vinegaroon instead of spirit or oil dye at step #5.. Initially, I was all set to use LCi's Neat Lac (Now Clear Lac) at step #8 until I discovered how much it would cost for the product + shipping........too pricy for this beginner ! I've already spent quite a bit for all the stuff purchased to date. So I've been looking for an alternative final edge finish that can be applied overtop of Black Vinegaroon and provide similar qualities of Clear Lac, i.e. toughness, good adhesion, flexibility without cracking or flaking and gloss anywhere between semi to high-gloss. Also, I would prefer a clear final finish, but black would be acceptable so long as it still meets the aforementioned qualities. I've noticed several members, including yourself, who have recommended Mop & Glo as a final leather edge finish, but didn't say what type. So I have posted the question to them and to yourself. See my post #14 to you here > The Business board > Getting Started forum > My thread "Should I Seal Vinegaroon on The Edges ?" . There are quite a few Mop & Glo products, each chemically designed for a specific purpose. See more information in my post #14. Thanks for your help ! ToddB 68

Greetings ! I guess the Topic Title conveys what I need........ Thanks, ToddB 68

Mudruck, With reference to your post #5, dated March 21, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo do you use over the Vinegaroon ? I Googled "Mop & Glo" and the Link I clicked on showed quite a few different types of mop & glo . Thanks, ToddB 68

Hi jackd942 With reference to your post #10, March 05, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo do you use ? I Googled "Mop & Glo" and after clicking on a Link, the displayed images showed quite a few different mop & glo products. Thanks ! ToddB 68

Hi Red Cent ! With reference to your post #12, dated Jan. 22, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo ? I Googled "Mop & Glo" and after clicking on the Link, I saw many different types pictured. Thanks, ToddB 68