ormus1
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Posts posted by ormus1
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Wow Prince Your leatherwork is truly awesome. thanks for sharing!
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Thanks Hellfire, but I think the Salad Bowl Finish was to be used on the inside. this person told me that they used a lacquer to seal the outside so that when a person drank from it , they wouldnt remove off the dye/acrylic etc..
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I was told once that lacquer finishes are safe to coat the outside of drinking vessels for use... Im not sure about that. I know that once lacquer cures its supposed to be inert. Anyone know if this is true or not?
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Typically, if you're getting the big dark spot with colored edges it means that either the reducer/solvent isn't fully compatible with the dye type or the mix is too thin/not fully mixed. The brush/brushes could also be loaded with solvent from their last cleaning and are further diluting the mix.
Personally, I prefer to use solvents I know already from having them in the shop instead of reducers. For acrylics & water based dyes - simple water works fine. For Spirit based I like denatured alcohol. For Oil dyes and the special colors like Fiebings white & gray, I used Specs Paint Thinner.
What is the mixed dye/paint doing inside the container?
Does it look evenly mixed or does the pigment look blotchy, congealed or separated (one floating on the other)?
Hmm yes they do seem blotchy when I use the reducer. when it comes to the cross dye method, do you let the base color dry completely before applying the top color to get the color effect.
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Im sure this has been asked but I couldnt find it. I read the books on mixing dyes and using the reducers. My issue is understanding the procedure. when I mix dyes or thinner with the dye ( using the ratios in the various books) I dont get a color, I get a dark wet area with slight color at the edges when it dries. Also when using the cross dye method, do I wait for the base color to be completely dry before I apply the top color to achieve a different effect? Im trying to get away from acrylics for lighter colors,
thanks in advance.
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I just spoke with a rep at the company that makes Envirotex Lite and they said that when exposed to extremes ( like a really cold or hot beverage) it can cause the resin to crack or become unsafe for food use. She mentioned she gets at least 1 call a week from people asking the same thing! lol
She stated that as far as she knows there is no food safe finish except for the Salad Bowl Finish, but she is unsure how that would work for lining a mug or a bottle. She stated that if any of us finds one that works to let her know so she can pass on the info to others that call her.
I may make a test mug using the Salad Bowl Finish and see how it holds up to testing. If I do that I'll report my findings.
Ive used Envirotex with my mugs for years. A while back it was actually listed as food safe, but as laws change they had to remove it from the packages.
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Thanks very much! dont see how I missed this site in a google search.
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Ive seen the various versions of lamellar plates that have been posted on this board as well as several others dedicated to armor construction. All seem to deal with the lacing styles of just a few. ( usually Wisby, Byzantine etc,,) What I havent been able to find is information on how to lace some of the more obscure plate styles. ( Khazak, Mongol, Nepalese etc..) Does anyone know of any sources ( either on line or in books) on how these plates where laced? Thanks guys.
Dominic
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Really Cool looking. Well done!
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Gak! Been crazy busy the past few months. Should have tutorial pictures ready this week, and will work on getting the text done around the same time...As far as using the mugs, they can be used for anything except hot liquids (I've personally used my mugs and shotglasses for everything from water, tea, lemonaide to meade, ales and beers, wine to whisky, rum and so on...). I remember reading somewhere that someone warned about hard liquers and the wax/pitch blends. However, I've not seen anything to suggest a problem and think it might have been geared to leather bottles and storing the liquer for extended periods... Not sure.
The blend between the beeswax and brewer's pitch I feel is kind of a personal preference sort of thing. I have a friend that uses around 3/1 wax to pitch, and it seems like his is a bit more prone to leaking from a bad lining (personally I think it's because the high amount of beeswax keeps the lining a bit brittle). With using a 1/1 (50%/50%) mix, I haven't seen bad linings, or leaks... But with any sort of advice, especially from me, take it with a grain of salt and play around. Use what you decide you like, and hang the rest.
Angster, I've been wanting to branch off and use the more traditional sealing process. Does the 1/1 mixture affect the taste of the brew? I pal around with a few folks that are brewers and they as well as I have heard that beeswax will taint the flavor of various drinks.
Thanks and I absolutely love the braided handle mug! Fantastic!
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It does harden as any epoxy does. I spread it using foam brushes ( like those found at paint supplies stores or major home improvement stores).
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Thanks guys. I seal my mugs with food grade epoxy. Many of my friends tend to drink brews that are to high of an alcohol content for the brews pitch/beeswax combo. Plus many like to use them for warmer drinks in the cooler months up this way.
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Thanks to you both. I do like the "traditional" look of the bracers with out the rolled edge, however I may still have to go with it ( the customer is always right). Thanks again for the tips and info.
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Hello everyone, first of all Im not officially a newbie. I did sign up a while back but, do to the crazy economy of the past year or so, my life has had to change several times before I could focus on doing leather work again. My main leather work has been leather mugs and scroll tubes. So my apologies for never posting or participating. My question is this; Im about to attempt my first set of bracers for a friend. I noticed that on some bracers they have what appears to be a "rolled" edge that is sewn down. This edge appears to provide comfort ( I assume) since it is softer that the surrounding leather. Are there any patterns or perhaps does anyone know how this is done?
Thanks in advance, and I look forward to posting and participating in the group.
Dominic
Sealant For Leather Mugs/bottles With Hot Liquids
in Historical Reenactment
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does the chemical odor eventually go away with the salad bowl finish? I tried some on an older mug that needed to be sealed. Its much easier to work with than Envirotex but it has left a very strong chemical smell.