ErikLittle

The Adler has SOLD! Thanks Ed

SOLD! Thanks Ed

This one is still for sale! $4000.00 shipped.

Sure for $10,000.00 shipped. Thats my main money maker!

Back up for sale!! $4500.00 Shipped in lower USA.

No longer available.

Rhome, I hope I was able to help you out! For the rest, forget I even tried to help. These forums are all the same, you try to help someone out and then end up getting flamed by the rocket scientists.

bcurrier, I beg to differ with you. Radius is a relative term. Besides you are talking about a completely different gunbelt style. And not to argue, but what the author was wanting to know has already been given.

Radius belts don't generate anymore waste than do straight. It can if you don't do it correctly. That waste doesn't mean much when you charge more for the extra time and expertice put in the product. Like you said, the customer is paying for it anyway. I have built hundreds of these and will continue as long as they keep selling. Erik

From my experience, the 1/4" thickness is ideal for big bore pistols. Now if you are holstering a Walther PPk, then you can get away with a thinner belt. It basically depends on the rig. The entire rig should be made for the specific pistol. Very important if your life depends on it. I am sure there is probably some Trigonometry that could be used to determine the an exact radius, but I'm no rocket scientist. Ideally the radius for each person's body type is different, but that is not possible to obtain. I just have found one that works for the different lengths staying to the rule, smaller waist sizes require a tighter radius, larger sizes require a larger more gentle radius. A frind of mine, Bruce Nelson, who was a famous holster maker taught me how to do this. Alot of makers today say that these types of belts aren't necessary because the straight cut belt will eventually conform. I think they just don't want to take the time to cut them. Contour belts feel more comfortable to me even after the break-in period for both. Galco does not hand cut their belts. They die cut for each of the sizes. My two clickers aren't big enough to use belt dies and I don't think most companies have the ability to die cut either. Galco is huge. Erik

7oz. is way too light for a gun belt. 13 - 14oz. for the main load bearing part and 10 - 11oz. for the ends. When I have to make a new pattern, I just eyeball it, but that's me. You could take an old belt that is "broke-in" to your hips and use it's radius to make a strip pattern. Erik

I would make a template for the radius you want for a strip. Smaller waist sizes require a tighter radius, larger sizes require a larger more gentle radius. After you cut your first strip, you can't make the second cut using the curved edge that is left in the hide from the first cut. If you do, your radius, or curve will continue to get smaller. You have to start with a new cut for every strip of leather. Once your strip is cut then your can finish you billets, etc. If the belt is lined then you have to glue the lining first before cutting. This is a pain to do. Erik

Stay away from the aluminum guns if you want a quality mold. They are very badly cast and are not of the original dimensions. Don't be cheap here. Don't ask me how I now I use Rings Blue guns and some ASP Red guns for the molding and do a final check with the real thing. Kydex, if done with the proper technique, will not harm your Blue Gun. Erik

I have a Randall R-12 strap cutter w/extras for sale. I bought it new and just don't use it. You can email me for details. I paid $4275.00 for the Randall from Weaver and have never even plugged it in. I will sell for $4275.00 Shipped. If you are coming to the leather show in Sheridan, you could pick it up. Thanks, Erik

I have an Adler 205-370 sewing machine w/extras for sale. I bought it new and just don't use it. You can email me for details. I paid $5150.00 for the Adler from Weaver. I will sell it for $4750.00 shipped. If you are coming to the leather show in Sheridan, you could pick it up. Thanks, Erik