Lokahi

Alright. I switched my bobbin thread to 69, and rethreaded top around this little post.. Am now getting much better results.

Thanks for these tips. Most of it seems straight forward to me. I'll see if I can figure out #2 when looking at the machine itself. #4 doesn't seem to be my issue. The bobbin case is brand new and the bobbin thread pulls up and feeds smoothly... is there anything else that might be causing my tension issue?

I don't have any 92 weight thread to switch to. I can try with some 69. I'll try to attach some pictures. If my code doesn't work, they're here at this imgur post: Threading Consew 206rb <img src="https://i.imgur.com/coCdPcQ.jpg" alt="206rb thread post" width="4032" height="1908"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/g5MGTLS.jpg" alt="206rb top thread guid" width="4032" height="1908"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/GfHqnaY.jpg" alt="206rb tension discs" width="1908" height="4032"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/N4OKDko.jpg" alt="206rb take up lever" width="1908" height="4032"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/VhL7dyM.jpg" alt="206rb lower thread guides" width="1908" height="4032"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/50PdlFN.jpg" alt="206rb needle threading" width="4032" height="1908">

Gary - The bobbin thread pulls up and pulls through just fine in my case. It definitely pulls through -much- easier than the top thread.

I know I'm beating a dead horse, here...but I promise, I really have searched the forums (and youtube) on this topic, and tried to solve this seemingly common issue myself. The issue I'm having is that there seems to not be enough tension on the top thread. As in, I can see the top thread, on the bottom of the workpiece. I'll go into what I'm sewing, and with what, and then what I've already tried. The machine is an 'original' Consew 206rb (the plate with the model # on it only says "206rb", no "-1" or "-5"). It was purchased used, obviously, but had been serviced, and seems to have seen very little use in it's past. There's almost zero wear at all on the bed of the machine. Bearings were re-packed, timing checked. I have no way of verifying that the guy who did this servicing knew exactly what he was doing, but I also have no reason to doubt him. I'm using Schmetz needles, which I only just realized as I'm writing this, are NOT diamond/chisel point. I've been using 135x17 serv7 needles in sizes 21, and 22, with #138 nylon thread. (I'm going to scream if this whole time the issue has been that they aren't chisel-point needles). I'm sewing mostly light-medium weight leather, generally a 3-4oz veg tan with another thin (1.5-2.5oz) garment leather on top of that. I've also done some sewing with 3oz chap leathers. With my stitches, the best result I seem to be able to get is to have the top thread slightly peeking through the bottom side on nearly every stitch. I'm also getting a pretty ugly bunching of thread on the under/back side any time I do a backstitch...though changing the feed dog seems to have helped some with that. I've also noticed that the presser feet will not raise higher than about 3/8" (and that's with the hand lever. It barely lifts 1/4" with the knee lever)... when the internet seems to agree that the 'max capacity' for the 206rb is around 9/16", and trying to actually sew anything near this 3/8" thickness results in a HUGE mess of loose top threads on the back side. I have checked (and adjusted) the bobbin case tension. It passes the "bobbin drop test". I have watched so many videos on threading the machine I think I could do it in my sleep at this point. I've checked, and re-threaded, and checked, and re-threaded, so. many. times. The top tensioner is so tight that even with the presser feet up/knee lever pushed, it's still hard to pull the thread through. Tightening it any further results in broken thread. Loosening the bobbin case spring any further results in risking the leaf spring getting caught up in the hook. I have changed needles. I have changed the feed dog. I have change the presser feet. I've oiled everything. I've tried different bobbins. I've tried a new bobbin case. I'm just...really at a loss at this point. Is it the needles? Is it possible the machine is just set up/timed for much smaller thread? The guy I bought it from said he'd never used anything in any of his machines that was larger than #69 thread. ...I think that's all I know to include in this post. Please, take pity on me. I'm still very much in the learning phase with industrial sewing machines in general. And thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I finally managed to get the anvil out last night with a solid pin punch and a heavy (metal) hammer, with the punch jaws clamped hard in a vise and (several, very hard) strikes. The tube I had to use some WD-40, a butane torch, and a firm grip with some pliers, but it finally came loose too. Guess this is what I get when I use the same tube and anvil to punch like, 8000+ holes in latigo and veg tan. Now, of course...i set the new anvil in my punch crooked so it's not punching cleanly despite everything being new, and the rotating portion of the punch seems a little crooked/loose, too ...but that's a whole other bag of worms

I sent them an e-mail the day I posted this. Still no reply from them :/

Pretty much just like the title says, I'm trying to replace the copper anvil on my Osborne 155. I abuse this thing and I know I do, but I can't really help that with what I do. So, the anvil is pretty gouged at this point and I need to replace it. I have the replacement anvil already, but for the life of me I can't seem to get the old one out. Anybody have any tips or experience with this? It's (understandably) really well seated in there. Vaguely related, I also need to replace my #3 tube but the old one seems really stuck in there, too. Do I just need some penetrating oil and some vice grips? Thanks in advance, Lokahi

As a crafter of "adult leather toys"...I would very much appreciate access to this section, as well. Please and thank you

First post, here - Found a deal on what seemed like a nice, pliable, almost "brushed" textured side of 7-8oz "tan" or beige-ish leather. Turns out it's exactly what the Army uses for their basic issue combat boots, which is a chrome tanned, barrel-finished leather...only they use it "inside out", with the rough side as the finished side. I'm trying to use the smooth "skin side" (correct my terminology if I'm saying this wrong) as my finished side, but it's not smooth like a veg tan. This is NOT a split leather. It still has the outer skin layer on the hide. It's also not smooth, like a veg tan leather. It feels like it has a soft 'brushed' texture to it. My goal is to use brighter colors of spirit dyes (i.e. Fiebing's or Angelus), and come up with a project that's consistently colored with no dye-transfer or rub off. It seems to take the dye fairly well, but no amount of buffing seems to eliminate the rub-off completely. Is there some step I'm missing in the prep or dye process? Is there a sealer of some sort I could use to "seal" the dye into the leather? Help the new guy out Thanks for your time, Lokahi In the attached picture, the beige-ish colored one is what I'm working with. The blue and green strips are examples I've already dyed, the blue being Angelus' "light blue", the green being Fiebing's "Green". I applied the dye using wool daubers.