Goatmother

Thank you for the warnings! Your suggestion about trying the linen threads brings up another question. I thought that the bobbin thread had to match the top thread. Why would one use waxed thread in the bobbin and glazed linen on the top thread. Would it not be just as well to use glazed linen for both? I am thinking that perhaps I can just treat the exposed thread after the item is made. Also, could you recommend a source for good glazed linen thread please?

Thank you TomE, exactly what I needed! As I see your interest is fixing things that horses break, can you recommend a source for leather for repairing or replacing straps on harnesses, bridles, etc.?

I was excited to see a post referring to a natural cotton thread available for use with machines. I have read this "thread" with all your answers and would like to ask a clarifying question. I have a Singer 29K15 which I bought before finding your excellent articles on these machines. Yes, I know that my small bobbin is limiting but I have already done some big projects with many bobbin rewindings. I am determined to use natural, biodegradable thread so as to make my products compostable at end-of-life. Considering your warnings about the need for waxing thread: Can I use the tallow pot at the top of the machine as it was intended, in order to "oil" the thread as it feeds through? Since natural waxes that I am familiar with, such as beeswax, are not liquid at room temperature, is there a way to liquify a mixture of waxes to use in the tallow trough? After all, this is what shoemakers used to use, is it not? If none of these solutions are acceptable, what would you recommend as a waxed natural thread to use in this machine for leather? Thanks for your help!

This is a great resource, Art, but I would like some additional help on thread. Although I know synthetics are longer-lived in leather projects and that they won't rot or degrade like natural materials, I have a few reasons that I want to have biodegradable thread in most of what I make of leather. Whether I am repairing harness or making clothing and accessories, I want to be able to return used leather items that have outlived their usefulness to the earth via composting. Could you provide information on natural threads, such as linen or hemp, that would be able to be used on a Singer 29K patcher and in hand sewing leather? Thanks for any advice you can give on types of threads and sources as well.

I have just acquired a work harness (with collar and hames) for my equine. It is not the fancy black multilayer high-polish carriage harness but rather flat, square-cut brown plain leather, 6 mm thick on stressed areas (breast strap, britchin, etc.) and 5mm thick on support straps. While dry and stiff from storage/disuse, there is no sign of cracking. I would appreciate any advice on restoring the leather to the natural flexibility it should have for harness work. My plan was to give it a good saddle soaping to clean and add moisture to the leather first and then to give it as many coats of Neatsfoot oil as it will absorb. I believe that I should not wait for the leather to be completely dry before oiling it, as the skin does need to be at a normalized level of moisture but I am not sure how to determine just how much moisture it needs. Should I: keep soaping it until I see a darker color going all the way through the leather as viewed from the edge and then let it dry until the surface lightens or should I just soap it up and wipe down once and then oil immediately? Once it is oiled, is there any way to add more moisture if it needs it? Please share your experience!

I saw this thread and your detailed answer searching for information on the Singer 29K71 . I wish I had researched here before purchasing the machine some years ago but it's what I have now and I'm not in a position to buy another. I have always done my leather sewing by hand but now with arthritis I needed to move to a machine and I wanted a treadle. So I have a further questions on threads and needles. So far I have used what the seller gave me with the machine. One spool of nylon twist, on a wooden spool with a partly unreadable label, labeled D/E., which I wound numerous times on the two bobbins I have. He demo'ed the machine on vegetan leather and it sewed beautifully with the regular (not leather) needle. Thus far I have only used it on a vinylized upholstery fabric with many folds, over 100 yds of binding and, except for the annoyance of winding so many bobbins, I am happy with it's performance. It also came with packs of Groz-Beckert needles in sizes from 130/21 to160/23and a drawer-full of bobbins that are made of just thread. Now I know why he used them! I have the manual in photocopy. It states needle ranges and specifies leather needle as 29 x 4 in sizes 9, 11, 14. 16, and 18 - 23. The Pilgrim shoe company catalog which he recommended for parts and supplies closed in 2019. So here are my questions: 1. Where can I find the proper, and heavier, leather needles for the patcher? 2. What thread do you recommend for sewing various types of leather? I use everything from thin buckskin to full thickness cowhide. I have always preferred natural fiber for what I make, waxed cotton, linen, etc., but realize that this machine is very touchy about tension and feed. Will I be forced to compromise and use synthetics like nylon? And is there some kind of chart available to match threads to needles? 3. These bobbins appear to be a heavier thread and maybe natural fiber as well. How can I tell what weight they are so I can perhaps find spooled machine thread to match them? and finally, 4. Where can I find the small bobbins that I can be sure I'm getting good quality? (meaning, not made in China). If there are sources or articles on some of the technical questions, please point me to them. With great appreciation, Goatmother