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King's X

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Everything posted by King's X

  1. Welcome to the forum KC!
  2. I can tell you how I did it on several projects. I have embossed a bit, but I know that there are many more members on here where embossing is their expertise, but I will share my ways. You decide. One way that I have embossed is to take a piece of 3-4-5oz veg tan leather I will prepare my leather with water plus and allow it to soak in. I would then cut the outline of letters or subject with my swivel knife and carefully bevel the lines. I would then use my embossing tools to push up from the back (inside) careful to follow or stay within the lines. When I am done embossing, I lay the project down and re-bevel all of my lines again carefully. I would then use my modeling spoon to round off the letters to make them look round instead of square. When I am satisfied with the embossing, I will allow my project to dry a bit. Then I will turn the project over and put some contact cement in the area around the embossing. while this dries, I would take some poster board or mat board (to size) and put glue on it as well. Once the glue is dry, I will join both pieces (carefully) pressing down around the outside of the leather only (lightly). Then I would carefully re-bevel so the leather and backing make contact and keeping the shape. My second way is to place pieces of leather the length and wide needed to fit in the cavity of the embossed leather areas. Leather dust also works if you want to make a oatmeal type mixture and do the same thing. From here you just proceed with joining the pieces together and go about the rest of the instructions. Like I said, it isn't purdy, but it has worked for me on several projects. Good luck
  3. Really nice job! Thanks for sharing.
  4. Hey Case, we are happy you join us. Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing your pictures.
  5. I maybe wrong, but I do not believe this is a 'beveler' tool? It appears to be some form of stamping or embossing tool. I have never seen this tool before. Maybe someone else can identify it. You can probably have one custom made. We have a few members on here that can help you out. Once custom maker that I have used is Clay Miller tools. He can be found on Facebook as well. Good luck
  6. Alan: I've got another member that would like to be placed on your notification list. I am very interested, Just don't make it too close to the New Mexico thing in Oct. Regards, Bill Parrie e-mail: bparrie at bellsouth.net Good luck
  7. Welcome to the forum James! Follow the links provided and you should get a lot of reading information. Good luck
  8. Welcome to the forum Pete!
  9. I am sure that I missed quite a few things that others have pointed out like lighting. This is very important! I have one fixed light and two swing arm lamps. As for turning the knife, remember that you add pressure using your finger on the saddle or yoke. The fingers on the barrel have a good grip on the barrel, but free from gripping to hard and causing tension that will not allow you to rotate the barrel freely. Good luck.
  10. Good question. Many people can only cut in a pulling action with confidence and vice versus. I can do it both ways, but I would rather cut and stop as I reach a point where I become a bit uncomfortable. I then just rotate the leather, set the knife blade back into the cut about 1/8" from the ending point and begin to cut again. For me, one of the most comfortable knives that I own in my collection is the SK-3 with a push/pull saddle or yoke. It is not mandatory, but like I said it makes it a bit more comfortable. The push & pull method does require a lot of work and confidence, but it can be achieved. Keep at it. As for the trace outline cutting, I have a question for you. Are you tilting the knife away from you as you pull it to cut? If you are not tilting the knife back before you start to cut.......give a it a try. You will probably be surprise that you line will be more visible. I hope this helps you get a answer to your question.
  11. Greetings Mat and welcome to the forum!
  12. Rickybobby Just FYI, I get my large copies done at FedEx Kinkos for about 1.50 to 2.50 depending on the size starting at 2x4 feet. They will also copy it and save it on a flash drive that way the needer can just have it printed out at their local store. Good luck.
  13. Sounds like you are on the right track.......Welcome to the forum!
  14. There is plenty of talent on this forum. I am sure that you will find what you need. Thanks you for posting here!
  15. Welcome to the forum
  16. Welcome to the forum!
  17. King's X

    Hello

    Welcome to the forum!
  18. This is a great inspiration for me. I have had a 1/2 scale tree sitting on my file cabinet for 6 months. Since I have never built a saddle or seen one done it is hard for me to see me working on mine. I am reading the Stohlman saddle books again in hopes that it helps. Thanks for sharing.
  19. Welcome to the forum Hilary!
  20. @Allen: I got one interest request so far to put on your list.......Aggiebraider.
  21. Alan: If you don't mind, I will put out a guild email to the masses and see if I can conjur up some more interest for you?
  22. Very nice Bruce! My favorite are the basketweave straps.
  23. I dye all of my projects before stitching, if possible. Than I will use a color coordinated thread to compliment the dye color. But I usually use white thread mostly because I really think (for me) it looks clean and the contrast is nice as well. Either way, sample your threads and keep that piece by your bench to reference it as you progress through you projects. Good luck
  24. Nomad, welcome to the forum!
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