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Peterk

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Posts posted by Peterk

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hey that second pic in your original post looks like the one you made for me! :D

    Glad this is working out great for you Scott! I have tried using this tool on a drill, a bench grinder, and by hand, and the drill is working out the best because the grinder turns too fast, and hand power is too slow to do anything to the leather. My drill is operating at about 1250rpm which is still not fast enough so I am contemplating getting the Fantastic Leather Burnisher and adapting this tool to it... That will come later when funds are more available.

    Thanks again Scott! Great tool!

    Peter

  7. Posted · Report reply

    There are several more sheath forums available:

    The Knife Network Forums: The Sheath Making Forum (1259 threads in the forum)

    http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdis...mp;daysprune=-1

    Also, British Blades Forums: Sheaths and Leatherwork Forum (1295 Threads in the forum)

    http://www.britishblades.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5

    Many, many hours of reading!

    Thanks... Not afraid of reading quality material like I get here. :)

  8. Posted · Report reply

    peterk, did you roughen the surface of the embosed leather before you

    applied the contack cement? try that on your next one.

    I roughen the flesh side and it glues very well to veg-tanned leather, but I did not roughen the skin side because that is the side that showed and the side I'm having trouble with. I will try to roughen the unexposed parts to see if that will help with the gluing issue. Thanks!

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I will try another contact cement. I know Barge does not do it, and the contact cement from Tanners Bond doesn't seem to work on the embossed leather either (on the skin side), but yes I will certainly sew as well. Still need to figure out how to mark holes for sewing when the embossed leather is on the outside so they are even. When they are inlayed it is easier to mark stitch groove on the veg-tan leather.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    DCKNIVES,

    If you don't mind, what weight leather do you typically use for front and back when you have inlays? The veg-tanned leather I have for holsters is way too heavy (I believe) for inlays so I am looking for suggestions. I have a piece of 2oz allegator pattern embossed leather that I am looking for uses so it doesn't just sit there. The problem I have with that piece is that it doesn't glue well to anything since I believe the embossed side is glazed.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Hello all,

    Having only made one semi-successful knife sheath ever, I am looking for ideas on what I can make next. I just got a customer who has two knives he would like me to make sheaths for, one is a field survival knife, and another is a rather large (understatement!) bowie...

    I have seen some generic sheaths online but I'd like to see what some of you have made (post pictures and specs) so I can get some ideas on construction, and attachment (to belt). Oh and since some sort of retention will be needed for both knifes, I'd like some ideas on that as well. I've ran some thoughts on retention through my head already but nothing really working out.

    Thanks!

    Peter

  15. Posted · Edited by Peterk · Report reply

    The new Angelus dyes will compliment your holster skills and make your holsters show and feel better. I've currently only tried Jet Black, Cordovan, and Coffee and love all three. Let me know if you find any other interesting colors.

    By the way, what leather (weight and vendor), and boning tool are you using? Am still trying to figure out how people get those deep indentations in trigger guards like yours. Only common thing I've heard so far is the use of quality leather from the likes of W&C and Hermann Oak, which I have yet to try.

    Thanks!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    1) The first airbrushed coat dries in less than a minute, if that long. By the time I finish spraying the back of the holster I can go back to the front to spray the subsequent coats. Weather/moisture may have something to do with that (I live in California) but even on humid days (we're talking maybe 10% humidity) it dries quickly. Never had it run on me either. This stuff is awesome! :)

    2) Have not had a holster go limp on me with the application of wax. I usually only apply two coats, and use a piece of wool (synthetic or real) to polish it between the time I finish and before a customer picks it up. I used to apply Neatsfoot Oil to my holsters as well and have heard horror stories about holsters going limp with too much oil... Those guys must have soaked their holsters in oil overnight for that to happen because I have not had that happen to me. Your holster will hold if you apply thin coats of wax; you don't need much.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Looks great! Looks much cleaner than my third one, especially the belt slots!

    As someone here told me when I first started, don't do any molding/boning behind the trigger, as I see some indications that you may have done some on the front of the holster. If it is just a camera playing tricks then no worries. I did molding on my first Makarov holster and while the trigger is probably 7+ lbs., I can understand the concern of molding behind the trigger upon drawing the weapon.

    Just my 2 cents. :) Again, nice holster!

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Forgot to mention, prior to spraying or apply any dye, I would load a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and wipe down the holster with it, then apply dye after it has dried (it dries very quickly). The rubbing alcohol helps to get rid of the oil from your hands and such so you won't have uneven spots, and "opens the pores" of the leather so the dye can be absorbed faster. Don't know if it actually does open the pores on the leather but I figured since it works on human skin (leather), it probably works about the same for animal skin/leather. :)

    Good luck.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Peter,

    When spraying the Angelus dyes do you find that you are getting good penetration into the leather so as to avoid potential scratching/rubbing through the dye? I've been spraying Feibings spirit dyes and find that when sprayed I do not get great depth penetrationg. I just had some Angelus samples show up today and I'm really looking forward to giving them a shot. Also, do you cut they dye or do you shoot it at full strength?

    Shooting at full strength straight from bottle, I will need about two coats to get even coverage, because they get absorbed fast into the leather. The full deep color won't show up until the second, or sometimes even third coat (for bleached leather). Because Angelus penetrates into the leather, I no longer have the problem I had with Eco-Flo where I can easily scratch the dye off even after curing overnight or days after.

    Use a wool dauber loaded with Angelus, dye a sample piece of leather and look at the cross sections. This is what I did the first time I got some Angelus... You can see how much the dye soaks through, and it increases with every application. Like I said before, I get a good 1/16" penetration and that is plenty good enough for me. :)

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I just got my order from TF ordered Sun on my doorste here in Maryland today (Wed) Great service hope I like the products...they look super on that Holster,I ordered the cordovan,army tan,brown,chocolate and english tan.Sweet work and Holsters always interest me!

    I started with Eco-Flo and Angelus was night and day. It soaks through the leather a good 1/16" so I don't have to worry about dye coming off as before. Spraying with airbrush makes quick work of apply the dye. I've also tried wool dauber but you would have to lay on a pretty heavy coat in order to get rid of possible streaks. I just discovered a new trick to even out the Angelus spirit dye, and that is to load a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol, and lightly go over the dyed holster with it. While it will pick up some dye, it will mostly just work the dye around and even them out and works beautifully.

    Good luck.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    That was made with Tandy stock... They were having a big sale, I didn't have enough money, I didn't have time to wait for leather to ship to me, etc. all contributed to this Tandy leather purchase. :)

    Only way to buy Tandy leather is to go into the store and hand-pick the leather. They don't have good stock to begin with, not compared to W&C and Hermann, but once in a while you find out that is bearable. It'll be hard to go back to Tandy after I try the likes of W&C...

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