dana

alright, good to know. that's a good idea though, i'll give you a ring when i get that far, thanks for taking the time to check for me

awesome thank you!

Bob, Thank you so much for telling me what i needed to know. How much does the correct knee lifter cost? do you have any second hand ones? i'm a little short on cash right now due to a project i just started but it's something i'll need to buy sometime. thanks Dana

after more filddling around i've come to the conclusion that it disengages the tension when the knee lift is pushed. i didnt realize this before because the part doesnt engage if you're only using the hand lever to release the foot. (which i was doing) so yeah maybe i solved my own problem? i must have thought it did more. but if anyone has any information on the correct knee lift mechanism for pfaffs let me know. i can't find on online anywhere

hey everyone. so i got a pfaff 1245 a while back and when i got it part A, a bent rod, was not attached. it looks like it helps pull up part C BUT what happends is that C moves up so far that B will slide off the end and get stuck. so what i want to know is: 1- how to install part A so it works (this is the parts in a resting position): so what's baffling me is that the knee lift works (ive been using it for about a year now without it installed) but i'm guessing it would work better of this part is installed. if i remember correctly with my old highlead 618 i could lower the pressor feet (from the up position) with just pushing the knee lift over. doesnt seem like i can do that with this machine..maybe this partA has something to do with it? on a somewhat separate note, what does the knee lift on these machines look like? the one in the picture is a knee lift mechanism i used on an old consew 109. but i'm guessing pfaff has their own design (cause they seem to have their own way of doing things).I'm using old bobbins for spacers just to get the thing working a little bit lol. i feel like i can't get the proper leverage with this type of lift. if anyone has a proper knee lift made for this machine for cheap i might take it off your hands.i tried looking for a manual for the older casting like this one but i can't find anything related to the knee lift. thanks for the help Dana

so i went to my local sewing machine mechanic and i told him everything that was the matter with it. turns out a few things were out of adjustment but nothing resolved that problem. he insisted that it was assembled incorrectly from the factory and that the problem was "too far into the machine". it could have been that i had that problem from the getgo but who knows. he was an older guy so i do trust his opinion. he also had his very own opinion about chinese-made machines in general. but anyways, i brought it back to the shop i bought it from (different shop than mentioned above) and told him the trouble i was having. he told me if i was that unhappy i could exchange it for another machine he had laying around. turns out he had a pfaff 1245 that ran good so i traded and i am much much happier. it was a "one step back, two steps forward" kind of thing but i feel like it was worth it. so now all i need to do it get the right presser feet and i think i'm set for a while. also, does pfaff have a special knee lift? i adapeted mine as best i could but but when the foot is up and i want the foot to drop it hands free, i cant get more leverage to do so. if someone has a picture of that, then that would help. saddlebag- i realize i could do the ol' flip and sew but i just figured that since i paid for a machine with reverse, i may as well use it.

thanks steve, i asked for help here first in case it was something i could take care of/adjust because i don't have a car at the moment. i'm hopefully getting it looked at tomorrow morning. thanks for the info

alright, thanks ryan, i'll look into it. i appreciate taking the time to write all that up.

alright! thank you! we're making progress. the stitches are longer in reverse. you can see it in the image i posted. i never realized it, but the forward stitches are 3/4 the length of the reverse stitches. I was sewing on length 6. as for the needle bar. i set it to 0 and there is no movement from what i can tell. it pierces the same hole over and over. is this what we want? or if something was wrong would there be a feeding motion here? so how did this problem arise do you think? how easy of a fix is this? or something that should be left to the pros? thank you for the help

Hi Everyone, this is my first post and unfortunately it's about a problem that arose out of nowhere i think. so here it is, as thorough as i can be: so my problem is I'm getting loose stitches on the underside of whatever i'm sewing *BUT* ONLY when in reverse to backtack ect. My equpiment i'm using is a highlead 618 with a size 18 needle and 69 bonded nylon thread. What's baffling me is that all stitches are nice and tight on top and bottom but as soon as i am at the end of a stitch and want to backtack, the upper thread (black in the photo example) will hang loose on the underside. so i thought it could have been a tension issue.. but if it was then why does all my forward stitching look OK? if it was a timing issue, then once again, why only in reverse is it bad? wouldnt timing affect forward and reverse? i looked over my manual and from what i can tell the timing is ok, but im obviously not a pro. i cleaned out the bobbin case, needle plate, ect. so in my image i have 2 layers of canvas. this is the underside. you can see in the top one that i was sewing forward and at the end you can see the black(top thread) coming through to the bottom and not forming the knot in the middle of the piece the bottom stitch is reverse only, so you can further clearly see whats going on. sorry for such a long post but anything i can do on my own would be better than transporting it so thanks in advance for any help! -Dana