Emhush

Thanks for the advice guys, after a bit of research I ended up using resolene on a damp sponge for my finish on my other belt, two coats of that and then a bit of snow proof wax over that to get rid of that plastic feel of the resolene, really happy with the results and there is zero rub off.. on a side note I tested out some dilution of the fiebings dye with 70% isopropyl alchohol.. seems I need atleast equal parts alchohol to the dye to see much of a difference? What do you guys use/how much of it for lightening your dyes?

Ive just finished doing the belt with the atom wax + snow-proof a couple of hours ago and i tested it to see if the dye would come off.. quite a bit of dye came off onto the paper towel.. is the wax/sno proof not set yet or did I do something wrong? can i just seal it off with super sheen if it doesnt dry?

Ive just started to get into leatherworking so try and bear with me here, I have two questions; It was recommended by my local tandy shop to use fiebings atom wax on my projects with sno - proof over the top of it as a finish.. after doing a bit of reading it seems that this would only be a temporary finish, and im currently doing a project for someone else (a belt) and im nervous that the finish will eventually rub off and the dye will begin to come off with it onto someones clothing.. thoughts? Also, im doing another belt that i havent started yet that i plan to use antique finish on and try out a resisting technique with the super sheen i have.. but the antique i have is lighter than i would like.. is it possible to mix some brown fiebings with the antique finish to darken it up or will it just end up acting as brown dye? thanks.