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Dakotanorth

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About Dakotanorth

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  • Location
    Pasadena, CA
  • Interests
    Sewing, Swing Dancing, Vintage Clothing, WWII uniforms

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Leather Jackets
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  1. Ok thanks. I can find no mention (online) as to which one this unit takes, or which is which for that matter. Either way I am including about 20 bobbins for this machine. Thanks,
  2. Hi TomSmith, Sorry I didn't see your post. I believe this is the large bobbin machine. I can provide images and dimensions if that helps.
  3. Pfaff 345 Free Arm Industrial Machine. This machine is built to sew leather and it will also do denim, upholstery, and other thick materials. Machine is in excellent shape- it is running strong and can still punch through several layers of jacket-weight leather. Machine could use a service, which is standard for any sewing machine. Still has the original clutch motor. Also included- I built a surface that will slip around the free arm so you can use this as a flat bed machine. You now have two machines in one! I'm also throwing in several packs of leather needles, large cones of thread, a new bottle of Lilly White oil, and about 15-20 bobbins. I also installed a bobbin winder on the table top. I'm located in Southern California- I can work with you a meet, pick-up, or something of the like. Shipping would obviously cost a great deal. Asking $1100.
  4. Hi everybody! In my new adventure of learning about leather, I took on a small side project. I have a WWII era WAC purse- the replacement strap is on the way, but for now, I want to "freshen" up the leather. Note the pics- the edges are worn a bit, and the color has come off. These worn areas also feel slightly raw. Online you see all of these "Miracle" creams to restore leather but I don't trust them. What can I do to restore the color, and seal the raw worn edges? ALSO the snap no longer catches. Can I hammer the stud and force it to flare out so it catches again? I don't want to take tools to this and destroy the purse.
  5. Thank you everyone. I appreciate the help and insight! Slowly I am getting used to the clutch motor. A trick I learned with my home machine is this: IF the power is turning the wheel, but it looks like it might "jackrabbit" start, then I start to hand crank the wheel. Just a touch; just enough to break the tension and move it. The instant it does I put my hand back onto the work. I'm also learning to drive it barefoot- I use my toes and curl them over the end of the plate to apply a slight amount of pressure. Your toes aren't that strong, so it's hard to apply too much force!
  6. I am slowly training up on the Pfaff 345 I recently bought from Chris. It is a great machine, and it works much like my household machine from the 1950's. I'm still struggling with the clutch. I get the classic sequence: Nothing...nothing...nothing,,, it starts to vibrate....WHAM!! It takes off at 1000spm. I have been able to soften this a bit by rolling the wheel by hand, as the motor starts to move the needle, but that sometimes requires 3 hands. What's the verdict on using pulley systems to reduce the speed? Are Servo motors big bucks?
  7. Hello all, I am starting to work with the Pfaff 345 I recently bought, but I can't figure out the correct manner to load the bobbin (which way does the thread wind, which side of what plates does the thread lie, etc.) I have the manual downloaded from Sewing Machine Supply LLC but it's old, blurry, messy. A lot of text is cut off. Is there another resource? Would Pfaff have a database of old manuals?
  8. Thanks again Uwe! So, there' a Brother LS3-C51 for sale, close to me. It sound solid, for $800. Would this work? Again, my goal is to make leather jackets, including (hopefully) horsehide jackets. Some of those seams can be 4 or 6 layers thick when they intersect.
  9. I saw this one on Craigslist and on eBay. It's really tempting but I am a newbie and I don't think my budget is that strong.... ugh, dilemmas!
  10. I saw that one too. I like the "I can't go any lower so don't ask" comment, even though it's been on CL for a few weeks now. Then again, there's this one with "Make me an offer" on it.... https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/app/5950009767.html
  11. Thanks again everyone. I see a Consew 223 freearm unit for sale right here in LA- is that a good one too? (It's $1000 mind you.)
  12. Uwe- thank you for the list! I think you're right- a cylinder arm that has a slip-on bed would be a great combo to buy. Yetibelle- sweet! That video shows me a LOT of details about the construction methods and sequence. This looks more exciting every day....
  13. Thanks Mattsbagger, it seems like I just have to jump in! Luckily there are a few books still available that focus on leather working. It wouldn't hurt to pick one up while I am hunting for a machine.
  14. Thanks Bikermutt07, I live in a tiny apartment, so multiple machines could be a problem! I'm thinking, maybe a home unit could do the cuffs since it's one layer of leather and a few layers of wool/cotton/etc. I will keep reading posts on here, and learn all I can. I know there are a few books still in print that would help too.
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