George1520
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Posts posted by George1520
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Try duda energy fabric or google 1 micron fabric
The material on mine is heavy felt fabric. The fleece material is not a bad idea. The nice bags are made out of felt and cheap bags are made out cotton canvas.
Rubber doesn't need much dust collection. It is heavy enough that it doesn't make it into the bag. But you definitely need it for leather soles or foam.
The bags get pretty nasty. The combination of fresh glue and leather makes the bags like a big discarded tissue full of snot.
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20 hours ago, sbrownn said:I had this idea to make a 3D printed die and then leave a slot in the bottom of it where a thin gauge rule could be hand bent and inserted. The 3D printed part of the rule would take most of the stress and the rule would be there only to cut. The problem I ran into was that the rule I purchased was too heavy of a gauge to hand bend to fit the die I had printed; the curves were just too tight. Nevertheless, if you had some thin gauge rule and a light weight bender it would probably work. The advantage is that you can make a CAD drawing of the shape you want and when you print it it is going to be exact. I have purchased a number of dies that were made by various manufacturers from CAD drawings I sent and I have yet to get one back that was completely accurate. I totally understand why that would be the case.
That is the idea behind dies used in printing. Cut the pattern in plywood, bend the rule close enough and then hammer the rule in the cut. No screws, the rule is free to move up and down but not sideways.
The cut has to be accurate. Most dies are laser cut, but for leather work scroll saw is definitely good enough
The other thing is that the die can be made out many smaller pieces of rule not just one continuous piece.
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What you want is the knife to rotate fast and the feeding stone to rotate slow. Having the option to slow down the feeding stone it will make skiving corners a lot easier. You can buy a regular skiver and add to servo motors.
I slowed down the feeding on my skiver with pulleys and it made a big difference but I still wish that I had a skiver with top feeding roller.
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They are not that big. Those machines are made for factories to skive the same part over and over.
Better question is why are leather sewing machines so big when all you need is a
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On 5/3/2021 at 1:03 PM, Ferg said:I have dealt with AmeriKen, very nice people. I bought my "Manual" bender off eBay, it will help build muscles in your arms.
I own several dies for the bender, they are expensive and you do not need a complete set of them to do what most of us intend for leather craft.
I use the lightest weight steel rule since it is very difficult to bend the heavy material manually. You need one more very important piece of equipment, a small wire feed welder.
Another expensive piece that will save you time and stress? A cutter made for cutting the rule.
I have a modified hydraulic press with a composite plastic about one inch in thickness when new, for under the leather you are cutting.
You will have no problem cutting leather that isn't above 5 or 6 oz. Obviously leather that is thinnner is easiest. When cutting thicker pieces temper the leather as you would for carving. Chrome tanned is tough and doesn't absorb water quickly. Wet the backside first then the front. Allow the leather to dry until it looks almost as it did without wetting.
Baltic Birch plywood 3/4" (it is actually about 16mm or 17 mm). You will need a router setup to cut the grooves for the steel rule. Very important to have the correct size groove or the die will fall out of the cheater board. I buy special bits that are made for using with steel rule. I have a very large commercial CNC router for making my grooves.
I am going to stop at this point of explanations since most folks begin looking at how much this set up will end up costing and say forget it.
Any pieces I hope to die cut many of, I buy a shop made die. They are heavy steel, will cut thousands of pieces before sharpening, and are economical.
Ferg
I got some stuff from Ameriken before, they are nice
What rule size do you use and what bit for the cnc?
I've been using 2pt rule with 2pt scroll saw blades.
The other think to consider in choosing a bender is that if you use 6pt rule, you will need the bender that is foot operated. The hand bender is for 2pt rule that is used in printing and you will need be supported by the plywood like in the photo above. It will be really difficult to bend rule thicker than 3 pt with it. The 2 pt rule is sharper, cuts better and it is easier to work with.
It took me a while to find a my bendender. They are not cheap and not many around. It will be cheaper to get the dies made.
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Good guess the Pfaff 138 feed dog and plate fit, the problem is that the zig zag on my machine is 9 mm and the 138 is smaller. But the singer 111 presser bar fits and I will have the option to find a presser that will match the current feed dog.
Talking about favorite machines. Would you rather have a Singer 457 or 143 over a pfaff 438? I still need to set a zig zag machine that would do a raw edge on leather and spacer mesh.
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The one I got has domestic zig zag presser welded to an outside Adler foot. Not a very precise welding. Do you know if the the 138 will work?
The it looks like the Durkopp uses different presser feet. Are they the same as the Singer 107? I'll try to see if an Singer presser bar is the same dimension. That way I might be able to use Singer 457 feet.
So far I'm pretty impressed with the machine.
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I just got a new/old Pfaff 114 and I'm looking for the manuals. It is not the new version that basically the singer 20u. The one I have is half Singer W 143 and the other half is Pfaff 145.
I didn't have any luck finding the manuals on the web. I think they are more popular in Europe than the states.
Thanks
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First fix the tread path.
Here is another way from consew to timing a zig zag machine http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/175.pdf Different machine but works well.
I had some issues timing my 199, skipping stiches and the upper tread tension was out of control. All was good after chancing the feed dog. I still dont know why that caused the problems.
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Anyone wants to get rid of their zig zag machine? I'm looking for a Singer 457 or Pfaff 438 or Juki LZ with at least 6 MM wide zig zag.
I also have a couple of machines for sale/trade. Singer w 108 cylinder walking foot and a flat bed wheel driven Pfaff 591 type machine. Both in great shape.
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For speed control only have two choices the one that has been already mentioned, a dc motor with a brake and the other kind, a step motor that can use a needle positioning. People call them servo motors but they are not. Sewing machine servo motors are huge and bigger much than a clutch motor.
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On your machine, is the binder synchronized?
I’ve made two plates the black one from some scrap metal and the shinny one from an old Singer 111. I don’t make it synchronized, I could by connecting to the feed dog. First I’ll try it this way.
Also, be made a hook cover out of 3pt die cutting rule. It is a couple of mm short but it covers all the sharp parts of the hook. The steel is good quality steel and it is held in place firmly by itself. It will comes off only if I have to fix the hook timing
Here are some photos.
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I think I will try to make one from a measuring cup. It looks like it belongs there. Or make and open end circle like the one on Pfaffs. I’ll make one out of die cutting with the bender.
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I just picked up a machine like yours. Older I think. It works but it has a couple of missing parts. The end cap at the cylinder bed and the plate/binder attachment. They guy I got the machine from, used it sew wallets, I’m planing to use it as a binder and to sew pull tabs on shoes. Sooner or later I will get the either get the shoe or my finger caught in the hook.
Do you know where to get one? Or if the one form another’s machine will fit. Like a Consew 277
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Anyone know where I can get parts for this machine? I’m looking for the bottom feed roller belt. It has the top roller presser belt but the bottom one missing and guy that sells it made one out of leather. I didn’t see the machine but he claims that it works well.
There is a Singer 236w for sale near me that looks like it might be in ok shape. I need a post sewing machine to sew around the edge and pull tabs on shoes.
The top belt looks like the belt for the sharpening stone on my skiver.
Thanks
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You want at an needle feed machine. I would get this, it is nicer
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On 10/6/2019 at 4:01 PM, Matt S said:In theory a 1-signal NPS could be replaced with a microswitch or IR notch sensor positioned to trigger at the apex of the take-up lever.
It is basically a simpler version of the computer mouse. An optical switch that outputs twice for one flywheel rotation. One for the needle up and one for needle down. If you replace it with micro switches you will need two. Otherwise it will work every other time, at least in theory.
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On 4/14/2019 at 8:20 AM, turbotexas said:Would one of these work on a Singer 31-15 and a 153w103?
it will not work on any machines that have the stich length knob at the back of the flywheel. Singer w 111 type machine. I purchase one that has the sensor installed. The way they did it they machined the flywheel flat and tap 3 screw holes for the sensor. Before they install it they cut the stich regulator and shoved in the hole. Basically the machine is set to only one stich length
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I have to get into tight spots and the 146 feet are to wide. I'm still looking for smaller 5 or 6 mm feed dog and plate for the 199. Also, I have to zig zag a 5/8 raw binding. that doesn't feed right with the standard 10 mm feed dog. I cant find any smaller than 10 mm
if I don't find some I will get a Singer 457 or 20. Maybe a Pfaff 438.
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I still don’t understand what happens but I fix it.
It only happens with suede leather (thicker material) and when it is at longest stitch length. As soon as I reduced the stitch length it started working like it supposed to work
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I have a Consew 199 that I have been using tho sew split leather. Mostly, zig zagging small pieces together. I didn’t use it in a while but when I tried to used it today there was a bunch of thread on the back side of the leather. I tried to loosen the bobbin tension opened increase the top thread tension, it didn’t help.
I check the hook timing, needle height, take up spring. All look good. I also swap the hook, bobbin case, thread tensioner from another machine.
Any ideas what else can I do. There are no skipped stitches, and the thread goes around the bobbin without catching.
Thank you
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It a little ridiculous. Fixing a shoe is more is more that a shoe manufacturer spends on materials, labor and profit.
Out of 8 bucks you spend 4 goes to the company that designed the shoe that pays 2 to another company to make the shoe. The store that sells the shoes gets 4
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Are there replacement parts available? My biggest concern is the clutch. Does it need to be replaced?
Thanks
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I’m not buying that one, and I don’t have the money to ship it or buy it from a dealer. The one I’m looking at is local and probably from the 40’s or 50’s, most likely without safety standards. If I get it, I will ad a second switch if I figure out how to do it. Since it runs on momentum it will probably not be electric.
6pt steel rule supplier
in Leather Machinery
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I've been getting 2pt rule from Ameriken. I've talked to them last week and they didn't have any 6pt rule in stock. Is there any other supplier where I can get thicker rule?
Thanks