NMcCool

The wooden thingys from Lowes, etc are lathe-turned, and the centers are very clear. I just gently secured them in a vice, and drilled with a regular hand drill.

If you are looking for a way to end burnishing by hand, and you have a Dremel tool, here’s an idea. Purchase some small wooden ‘millworked’ wood finials, or other décor items as seen in the photo. You can find these at Lowe’s and other retailers or builder’s supply stores. Or, you can cut sections of dowel rod. If using dowels, keep the size no larger than 5/8ths or so. Drill a 1/8th inch hole in the bottom of the wood piece, and insert drill rod, brazing rod, or other metal in the hole with gorilla glue or epoxy. Let it dry thoroughly. Chuck the shaft into your Dremel or a drill, and secure the tool to your work bench to prevent it from moving. Actuate the tool to keep it running at a slow RPM. Draw guide lines on the wood piece with a pencil. With a hacksaw blade, or other fine saw blade, form grooves or slots. Work these areas to your liking. Make as many versions as you wish.

I have a 67 also. As 'constabulary' said, parts can be an issue. I have had good luck with the Adler folks in Atlanta, BUT..what you get may be parts that look identical, but are 50% larger than the item on your machine. This has happened to me twice. They say that parts for the 167 are interchangeable, if that helps. Also, Sloan machinery in Maine (of all places), does carry a good selection of 67 parts. Their number is 1-603-893-8891, or sloanmach@gmail.com.

Have you explored going to a smaller drive pulley on the (clutch or servo) motor? I may have missed a post that says you did, sorry. This will reduce the input to the sewing machine's pulley, and slow it down. Try the calculator on bricklayer.com, it will help a lot. Personally, I dropped down to a 1 7/8 inch pulley on my clutch motor, and RPM dropped to the 820 range. To finish the job, bought a "router speed control", plugged it inline, and with it bottomed out, I can sew on my Adler slow enough to count the stitches. Counting the new pulley, belt, and speed control, I have just under 60 bucks invested. Note-the speed control will NOT work on any motor that has capacitors. FYI

You are on the right track checking Craigs list. Do not neglect to inquire at any upholstery shops in your area for possible older machines they just upgraded from. Ask them also who does the repairs on their machines, often this outfit will have unclaimed repaired machines, or often folks will just drop off a machine they 'found' or was donated to them, and they take it to the repairman's shop. Similar to dropping a stray at the humane society. Don't neglect to check auction websites, estate sales, local sewing machine dealers. In my case(s), I got lucky on Craigslist for a Juki TL 2010, in the box, dirt cheap. The key is to have the money in hand, and drive like hell to the seller or a neutral spot. I would advise you consider this strongly, look into the various gov't or surplus auctions. The Army no longer does sewing to repair uniforms, ruck sacks, strapping of light weight, and the like. Soon a lot of these machines will be hitting the disposal auctions and such. My second find, and do visit this site often, was on GSAauctiions.gov, I bought a walking-foot Adler from NASA, on a sewing table with clutch motor, works great, has sewn over 1/2 of leather without a hitch. Total was 500 bucks. Bada bing. Hope this helps, be patient and don't give up.