frank207

there is a bit that looks like a littele gear and is used for shaving wood. i have used this bit, flat side to the leather, to skive out some leather to set in a chicago screw if you don't have a long enough screw. I have also ground down some common nails for drilling holes for sewing. frank

I posted a topic in the wrong forum. Is there a way to move it or copy it? Thanks Frank Name: Frank W DiMarco UserName: frank207 IP Address: 99.197.64.56 Email Address: fdimarco@dishmail.net

Hi, I would like to make a few of these pouches so I bought some deerskin type leather (not real deerskin), but I have some questions: 1) What would be the best way to come up with a pattern or where could I find one? 2) I don't have a sewing machine and have been doing my stitching by hand on 2/3 & 8/9 oz. leather. This deerskin type leather is very soft and does not seem to lend itself to a groover and stitching wheel as the leather tends to bunch up. Any suggestions around these issues? 3) Is the sewing done with the pouch insideout? 4) Is it easier/better to have one piece and sew two sides of have two pieces to sew together? Thanks Frank

You can purchase oxalic acid thru a pharmacy. It is a little expensive but a little bit of the stuff in some water goes a long way. After I mix it I keep mine in a soda bottle, its clear so be very careful with it around children because it looks like a bottle of water.

I want to make my wife a concho belt (this will be my first concho belt) for her birthday next month and I spent the day researching Concho site trying to find conchos and a matching trophy type buckle. I found a concho I like at Tandy its called ' Praire Dust Concho' and it has a little fake turquoise stone in the middle, however, no matching buckle. Does anyone have any suggestions where I can find a better selection of matching concho/trophy type buckles? I would also be interested in any suggestions on mixing and matching conchos/trophy type buckles. I'm kind of challenged in this area particually when it comes to ladies appareal! One other question: If I end up with a screwpost concho, do I need some sort of backing on the belt? Thanks Frank

hi, I have a 2'x 2' piece of thick glass and use newspaper on top of that. When done I throw out the paper and if the glass gets dye on it I wipe off with some alcohol. I don't do alot of dyeing yet but this seems to work for me so far. Frank

I have recently made 7 belts from the same piece of hide (9/10oz bull hide from ZW). Three belts were vinergrooned, Two were dyed with Fiebings Oil Dye, One was stained and the only one that Cracked quite badly (you not only saw the crackes but it was like popping bubble wrap!) was dyed Yellow (two coats with stamped roses dyed red) using Fiebings spirt dye, not the oil dye. After dyeing and drying overnight I oiled it the next day and let it sit for another night. It didn't appear that dry because the oil kind of sat on top for awhile soaking in slowly. After drying overnight I then put on two coats of Tandy's super sheen, which I use exclusively, and have not had any problems with cracking. I live in Maine and my shop is not heated and right now the night temp. is getting down to around 40 deg. in my shop, outside it's colder than that. Would the cold have anything to do with this problem? Or, does it have something to do with the spirit dye and dry leather? If it's the dye/leather problem how do you tell if the belt should be oiled first? Most everyong suggest oiling after dyeing. I'm going to my first Fair on Saturday and needless to say I'm dissappointed about the belt. I have time to make another one if I can figure out what happened, I don't want to get the same results! Thanks in advance Frank

I have a Tandy wooded strap cutter and there is a beveling on one side. Should this beveling be on the Left or Right side while your cutting? Also, are the more expensive metal strap cutters/draw guage better, ie: easier to use and keeping a straighter line? Thanks Frank

Thanks guys' for the advice. Tonyc1: I use a pondo board over a 2 1/2 " piece of Marble? Frank

Hi, What do you mean by "taper the wet out"? Thanks Frank

I recently purchased some bull hide for making belts and on a few of the straps I was only able to punch thru about halfway. I have a heavy rawhide mallet and the punch is relatively new and I don't think it's dull. I then wet the area and the punch went thru fine. Because I had to wet the area where I wanted to punch, that area now has a water spot. My Question is: Is there anothe way of doing this without using water to sofen the leather? If not, do I just have to wet the entire belt even if I don't plan on tooling? Thanks in advance Frank

Hi, I want to start cutting my own key fobs, hair barrettes, rifle slings, etc. from 3-9 oz tooling leather. What type of scissors/shears or other tool/s would be good for these projects? Thanks Frank

Hi, I'm sure this is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. When applying neatsfoot oil to straps (belts, dog collars, wristbands etc.) is it necessary to oil the flesh side (back) in addition to the grain side or will just giving the grain side oil penetrate enough? Sometimes when doing a strap I will smooth the flesh side with gum trac., then dye. If I need to oil the flesh side will it penetrate the gum trac. effectively? Thanks Frank

Thanks guys, I've been wanting to get the 4 card suits anyway so I'll start off with Hearts. If it's too big for a 1" collar I'll try talking the customer into a wider one, wish me luck. Thanks again Frank