frank207

there is a bit that looks like a littele gear and is used for shaving wood. i have used this bit, flat side to the leather, to skive out some leather to set in a chicago screw if you don't have a long enough screw. I have also ground down some common nails for drilling holes for sewing. frank

I posted a topic in the wrong forum. Is there a way to move it or copy it? Thanks Frank Name: Frank W DiMarco UserName: frank207 IP Address: 99.197.64.56 Email Address: fdimarco@dishmail.net

Hi, I would like to make a few of these pouches so I bought some deerskin type leather (not real deerskin), but I have some questions: 1) What would be the best way to come up with a pattern or where could I find one? 2) I don't have a sewing machine and have been doing my stitching by hand on 2/3 & 8/9 oz. leather. This deerskin type leather is very soft and does not seem to lend itself to a groover and stitching wheel as the leather tends to bunch up. Any suggestions around these issues? 3) Is the sewing done with the pouch insideout? 4) Is it easier/better to have one piece and sew two sides of have two pieces to sew together? Thanks Frank

You can purchase oxalic acid thru a pharmacy. It is a little expensive but a little bit of the stuff in some water goes a long way. After I mix it I keep mine in a soda bottle, its clear so be very careful with it around children because it looks like a bottle of water.

I want to make my wife a concho belt (this will be my first concho belt) for her birthday next month and I spent the day researching Concho site trying to find conchos and a matching trophy type buckle. I found a concho I like at Tandy its called ' Praire Dust Concho' and it has a little fake turquoise stone in the middle, however, no matching buckle. Does anyone have any suggestions where I can find a better selection of matching concho/trophy type buckles? I would also be interested in any suggestions on mixing and matching conchos/trophy type buckles. I'm kind of challenged in this area particually when it comes to ladies appareal! One other question: If I end up with a screwpost concho, do I need some sort of backing on the belt? Thanks Frank

hi, I have a 2'x 2' piece of thick glass and use newspaper on top of that. When done I throw out the paper and if the glass gets dye on it I wipe off with some alcohol. I don't do alot of dyeing yet but this seems to work for me so far. Frank

I have recently made 7 belts from the same piece of hide (9/10oz bull hide from ZW). Three belts were vinergrooned, Two were dyed with Fiebings Oil Dye, One was stained and the only one that Cracked quite badly (you not only saw the crackes but it was like popping bubble wrap!) was dyed Yellow (two coats with stamped roses dyed red) using Fiebings spirt dye, not the oil dye. After dyeing and drying overnight I oiled it the next day and let it sit for another night. It didn't appear that dry because the oil kind of sat on top for awhile soaking in slowly. After drying overnight I then put on two coats of Tandy's super sheen, which I use exclusively, and have not had any problems with cracking. I live in Maine and my shop is not heated and right now the night temp. is getting down to around 40 deg. in my shop, outside it's colder than that. Would the cold have anything to do with this problem? Or, does it have something to do with the spirit dye and dry leather? If it's the dye/leather problem how do you tell if the belt should be oiled first? Most everyong suggest oiling after dyeing. I'm going to my first Fair on Saturday and needless to say I'm dissappointed about the belt. I have time to make another one if I can figure out what happened, I don't want to get the same results! Thanks in advance Frank

I have a Tandy wooded strap cutter and there is a beveling on one side. Should this beveling be on the Left or Right side while your cutting? Also, are the more expensive metal strap cutters/draw guage better, ie: easier to use and keeping a straighter line? Thanks Frank

Thanks guys' for the advice. Tonyc1: I use a pondo board over a 2 1/2 " piece of Marble? Frank

Hi, What do you mean by "taper the wet out"? Thanks Frank

I recently purchased some bull hide for making belts and on a few of the straps I was only able to punch thru about halfway. I have a heavy rawhide mallet and the punch is relatively new and I don't think it's dull. I then wet the area and the punch went thru fine. Because I had to wet the area where I wanted to punch, that area now has a water spot. My Question is: Is there anothe way of doing this without using water to sofen the leather? If not, do I just have to wet the entire belt even if I don't plan on tooling? Thanks in advance Frank

Hi, I want to start cutting my own key fobs, hair barrettes, rifle slings, etc. from 3-9 oz tooling leather. What type of scissors/shears or other tool/s would be good for these projects? Thanks Frank

Hi, I'm sure this is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. When applying neatsfoot oil to straps (belts, dog collars, wristbands etc.) is it necessary to oil the flesh side (back) in addition to the grain side or will just giving the grain side oil penetrate enough? Sometimes when doing a strap I will smooth the flesh side with gum trac., then dye. If I need to oil the flesh side will it penetrate the gum trac. effectively? Thanks Frank

Thanks guys, I've been wanting to get the 4 card suits anyway so I'll start off with Hearts. If it's too big for a 1" collar I'll try talking the customer into a wider one, wish me luck. Thanks again Frank

I have an order for a 1" wide dog collar with the dogs name (lucky) and a 4 leaf clover on each end of the name. My Question Is: Do they make a 4 leaf cloverstamp? If not, how would I go about making one this small? I pulled some pictures off the internet but I'm not sure about tracing something this small and I'm not artistic. Thanks Frank

Hi, This may seem like a strange request but I went to a yard sale this week where one of the owners was a stone carver and apparently quite good. They are elderly and selling their property which includes a very,very large building which he said was his work shop which I might get into next week if he gets it organized. I asked if he had and leather equipmnet/supplies and he said he had a splitter(small) and some sort of Hand cranked, jig saw TYPE machine that is used to cut shapes in thick leather. I hoping he has small sewing machine. Anyway, My basic question is: If he has any leather sides/pieces laying around ,what should I look for in determining if the leather is still usable? I have a feeling if he does it will probably be quite old. Any comments, suggestions will be appreciated, I have no idea what he may have, but the man is apparently quite artistic in different mediums. As Always, Thanks Frank

Hi, When I bought my Tandy Kit last year it came with a swivel knife. I have not been doing any carving, just stamping. This winter I want to do a rifle sling and carve someones initials and maybe some other small projects, I'm not big on flower carving yet. My question is: What would you recommend for blades? size, angles, ceramic vs. metal? Carving is not a priority of mine right now, I'm just looking to have the right tool for the job when I get to it. As always, thanks in advance. Frank

Thanks guys for all the advice. Ross I don't know what type of leather it is, but the lady said the stuff I bought is used for the tops of shoes/sneakers. Yes, the picture was helpful but leads me to another question. It looks like the holes were made with a chisel, should I think about using one of these? When do you use a chisel to punch holes vs. an awl? I don't have any chisel's either! As you can probably tell I'm a newbie and even more so when it comes to sewing/lacing. Again Thanks Frank

Ross, I don't have a sewing machine, I'm planning on doing some stitching by hand. Do I still need a groover? Also, there is a tannery about 15 miles away but they don't do veg. tanned leather. The stuff they have is soft and they have many colors. I picked up some to try sewing with an awl and using what I have as a stitching pony. The leather is so soft it was hard to keep a straight line not to mention actually poking the hole. I realize I can't use a groover on this leather but with leather this soft should I even try hand sewing? I want to do some simple little purses/pouches using some of that colorful leather. Thanks Frank Ross, I don't have a sewing machine, I'm planning on doing some stitching by hand. Do I still need a groover? Also, there is a tannery about 15 miles away but they don't do veg. tanned leather. The stuff they have is soft and they have many colors. I picked up some to try sewing with an awl and using what I have as a stitching pony. The leather is so soft it was hard to keep a straight line not to mention actually poking the hole. I realize I can't use a groover on this leather but with leather this soft should I even try hand sewing? I want to do some simple little purses/pouches using some of that colorful leather. Thanks Frank

Hello, In the absence of a Grooving Tool, is there another way to groove for stitching?

Badger, I'm also having a problem with my Tandy edger also. I have tried sharpening it according to the book with the little files I bought but it keeps dragging and wrinkling the edge. I'm going to buy one of those Tapered sharpening stones by Osborne. Do you think this will make a difference or is there something I'm doing or not doing? Thanks Frank

While I was doing basketweave stamping on a belt the tool twisted in my fingers when I struck it and the mistake was very noticable. I tried to correct it doing the following: 1) I re-wet the spot and then using the flat side of a bone folder/slick rubbed over the mistake until most of the impression was gone 2) I then re-stamped. My problem now is there is a dark spot that is somewhat shinney where I rubbed. My questions are: 1) What is the correct methord for correcting a mistake like this, assuming there is a way? 2) Now that I have the problem is there a way to lighten the spot? As Always Thank Frank

I tried diluting Fiebings Pro Oil Dye(1part) with neatsfoot oil (1,3 & 5 part batches) and the result was not good. Apparently the dye and neatsfoot oil did not mix well and when applied to the test pieces there were tiny pieces of dye particals showing. What is the best way to dilute the Pro Oil Dye? Thanks Frank

I'm curious how you would edge kote the Billet End of a belt when you trim it to size at a Craft Show and the color of the belt is not Black or Brown which the product Edge-Kote only seems to come in? Also, I would like to do some stamping while I sit their and would lke to know what kind of table set-up would be sturdy enough yet portable? I have not done anything like this before and plan to do some small fairs/craft shows this summer/fall. Right now I'm just trying to build a small inventory of belts, dog collars and wristbands. I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the advice I've received since I embarked on this Leather Craft hobby/business. Living in Maine there are not alot of leather craft people around! Thanks in Advance, Frank