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djmc5678

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About djmc5678

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday May 24

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Japan
  • Interests
    more coffee

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Dyeing, painting
  1. Thank you. I'm in Japan but will see if I can find something comparable here. Thanks!
  2. I am curious about this too. I tried dyeing, then neatfooting, then resolene. It just does seem too oily and hasn't completely dried. Is it possible to just skip the neatsfoot? I am actually interested in making it really glossy so I'll give the saddlesoap a go. Hoping someone with experience will answer this.
  3. Someone has a 100+ horse hide lot for sale (not cordovan) and I was wondering how smooth it is and how well it would take dyeing. They are all 2mm so it might be good for wallets, coin cases, etc? Thank you.
  4. I've been experimenting with neatsfoot. Maybe it's the leather I'm using, not being top rate. Actually I'm in Tottori now and we have no store in town that sells real supplies so everyone gets theirs online.
  5. Thank you for the posts! I'm in Japan so Fiebing's is hard to come by. I'll try one of the Japanese companies oil dyes.
  6. Tokonole is the hobbyists go-to burnisher in Japan. When not using a edge paint, I'm using it every project. Good luck OP.
  7. That was my next question Oil based is preferred? Would that solution need diluting? Thank you all for the responses.
  8. I just started getting into dyeing and I'm using a Craftsha water-based dye. I used the dye straight without diluting it. Put a good coat on. Dried it. Put neatsfoot on and noticed how dark it was. When using water-based dye, is there a rule of thumb for diluting, eg. 2-1, 3-1? Yes I plan to experiment to see what works best but was hoping to get opinions of others who have been doing this much longer. Thanks.
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