LtharK

Hi again, I'm eager to learn, but have been using this tool for over forty years, and have never before been instructed other than "single bevel" for the blade. My understanding had always been that with that single bevel, the leather would be pulled into the fence, and that would produce a strap with more accurately parallel sides, and until these recent cuts, all worked well. I hope others will comment, but I hesitate to experiment because I can't easily replace this great old blade. Sincere thanks for further thoughts on this, Lothar

Hello to All, I have used my Dixon plough gauge for too many years to count, and never have had any trouble at all. Then, a few days ago, I got things set up to cut some 1-1/4" straps from a rather firm 8-9oz. tooling oak hide. As soon as I started the cut, I felt that the forward pressure needed to make the cut was far greater than it should have been. I had to lean into it with all the muscle I could muster. I assumed that, despite my careful preparation, the blade was not properly sharpened, and so I backed out the tool, removed the blade, and sharpened it again. I tested it on the same piece of leather, and the blade glided through with only modest effort. But then, as soon as I put the newly sharpened blade back into the tool, its forward progress became extremely difficult once again. As it should be, the blade is highly polished flat on one side, and is beveled on the other. I'm not certain, but I believe that because it is a single bevel, it is causing the leather to tighten against the fence of the tool restricting my progress. Whatever the cause of the problem, I need some help, and would welcome any thoughts about what can solve this old tool's new problem. Many thanks, Lothar