jlopez

Lobos, I like how you detailed this process. Many people here really explained "their process" well. This is the type of information that is always useful. Thank you for taking your time to share. Juan

Shorts you rock man, I remembered I had a oak dowel sitting around. I used my dremel and a bit to create the groove and the width i needed. Viola! I have a new burnishing tool. I can use it by hand and it will actually chuck in the drill. If I had not buggered up the edges trying to get what I wanted they would be even better. I included a picture of the best edge which is what I was going for. This holster is for my self as are all my holster I just wanted to step up the appearance a little better than I had been getting. Again thank you all for your help especially you Shorts. Juan

Thank you all for you help. I did as suggested I dyed after wet molding and letting it dry completely. For the boning I used the back end of the sharpie for the ejection port and slide detail. I used the handle of my spacing tool for the trigger guard. Both of these were great suggestions I found in other threads. As for finding a place to start I started by pressing just around the slide. I found out that when boning if i made a mistake i was not hard to fix. I started lightly and as the impression was starting to appear I could press a little harder. The trigger guard was definately the easiest. I feel for my first time I got a good impression. Now if I could just get the edges a little more perfect. With a single thickness of leather no problem. The power drill idea was great. But when it is a double thickness the burnishing wheel is just to small in width. I even bought the number 5 edger but it still is not enough to the get the edges to fit the slicking wheel. I checked at tandy and they do not sell different wheel widths. Juan

This is my first post and I spent several hours trying to search for this topic with no real luck. However I found other information that i would not have thought about. I have made holsters in the past but have never hand boned one but always tooled. From what I gather Wet molding it with a water temp about 120 degrees and a drop of dish soap will help in "forming the leather". Presume just utilizing your fingers for the major out line around the trigger guard, shroud and slide. I noticed someone was using the end of a sharpie for other parts. This is a IWB for a Walther PPK My questions are as follows: 1. Do you dye the leather before or after molding and boning? 2. Where is the best place to start the boning. I have not figured out how to find the ejection port and other lines that would need to be boned. 3. When letting the holster dry to you leave your unloaded and wrapped gun in or do you take it out. I read many post but these were the questions I still had. My apologies if I missed somewhere in another post. Thank you, Juan