krummark

Interesting development, so I called Bruce over at Bruce Johnson Leather because this gentleman also had some other tools that I'm interested in. Anyways, I asked about the bevel and Bruce said it really just depends on who made the tool and who you ask. Said 90% of the plough guage blades he sees have both sides beveled

No it's some old local guy here in Juneau, AK, but that does look similar. That one also looks like both sides of the blade are beveled, coincidence? Thankyou for sending those links by the way. I know some blacksmiths in town who might be up for that job, I'm not sure though. Only having experience with sharpening knives and whatnot I don't know what all would go into reshaping a blade to have the correct bevel.

Thanks for the replies guys. I am curious now though, how much would a replacement blade cost for the frame? It's an old H. Brindley plow gauge if that brand makes a difference or means anything.

I want to start out and say I have little to knowledge of plough gauges and no experience with them at all. But I do have the chance to pick one up from a local guy who got some tools from a friend. Looking at the plough guage, both sides of the blade are beveled, and correct me if I'm wrong, but from my understanding only one side should be beveled. Does having both sides beveled ruin the blade? Is it fixable? If so, how intensive would that be? They were asking like $200 for it, if that is a defective blade, is it even worth it anymore, if it still a good tool would it lower the price? Looking forward to learning about plough guages here.

Thanks for the advice Dwight! So, no liner. Veg tan all the way. I have some natural veg tan currently, I believe I have some 4-5, 5-6, and I just got a double shoulder of 8-9. Would the 8-9 be too bulky for a project such as this? Also, kind of leading to my last question about the finish, but would a leather such as English bridle work better because of the oil content (i.e. water resistancy)? I don't really want to buy more leather, I just ordered that double shoulder and a single of the 5-6. Now, for the finish, I have a question. People around here (Alaska) love using SnoSeal on their gloves and whatnot. Would a beeswax mixture like snosneal or another product be a better choice than resolene? I have limited experience with resolene, I have a small bottle of it, I've used it probably 2-3 times, but personally not a fan of how shiny it makes my products look. But if you feel like that would be better for what I'm using it for, then I have no problem giving it a go. Thanks again for the advice and the photos! I'll try to post some pics along the way.

Hello, I believe this may be my first time posting on here, although I've been a viewer for about 6 years. So, I need to wear a radio harness for work. We have the nylon ones available by Conterra and other brands which is what I use currently. However I'd like to spruce things up and make a leather harness. I was planning on cutting the nylon and elastic straps from my current rig and using them on the leather harness. So just the body of the harness, pouches, and backplate would be leather. Ok, backstory aside, what would be a good leather to use? Very general question, I know! I'll give some details as to how it would be used and what I would like on it. It's essentially an imitation of the Conterra harness in the attached photo. I'll be wearing it over 1-2 layers of clothing, so not next to skin, although I can't rule it out as an option! It will be in cold, wet, snowy, and sweaty environments What would be a preferred liner? Do I need a liner? Chrome tan vs veg tan? (I'm thinking I'll need/want to mold some pouches, so veg tan for that at least). What weight leather would be ideal for the backplate, the backing, for the pouches, etcetera? Ok that's about all the information I think I know to give, I apologize for any dumb questions, but I'm open to any and all comments and suggestions.