Russ498

I have a Cobra 4, premium package with the Electronic Needle Positioning system. I bought it new from Leather machine Company on August 20, 2018. I think I paid around $3600 . I would like to get $2800 cash. I have 10-15 extra bobbers as well as 3 packs of extra needles and several hundred dollars worth of thread to throw into the package. It has less than 10 hours of use and works perfectly. I am located in Maryland between Baltimore and Annapolis. You are welcome to test sew to your hearts content. NO SHIPPING, IT'S TOO DANG HEAVY.

I see Angelus leather paint, but I'm looking for a dye.

Does anyone know if there is a source for pink leather dye or white leather die that I can mix with currently available red dyes to make pink? Thanks all

I use it daily, but I don't use a lot. I make mostly police badge cases and holsters.

No, mine is getting thick in the glue pot. It won’t run off of the brush.

Can you thin Barge cement with anything other than their proprietary center? I'd like to be able to get something at the local hardware store. Shipping on this stuff is pretty high because of the hazmat. It looks like toluene is the primary ingredient but I can't find that at Lowe's. The only thing I can find that is close is Xylene. Thanks for your help

I make primarily police products such as badge cases, wallets, and holsters. Up till now I had been making just about everything in the various shades of tan and brown. Lately, have had a lot of request for black items. I emboss most of my stuff with custom-made CNC stamps. With all of the colored items, I'd always used antiquing to highlight the embossing. Any idea how to enhance the embossing on black leather? None of the antiquing products that I use do any good. Thanks for your help

I make primarily police products such as badge cases, wallets, and holsters. Up till now I had been making just about everything in the various shades of tan and brown. Lately, have had a lot of request for black items. I emboss most of my stuff with custom-made CNC stamps. With all of the colored items, I'd always used antiquing to highlight the embossing. Any idea how to enhance the embossing on black leather? None of the antiquing products that I use do any good. Thanks for your help

I make primarily police products such as badge cases, wallets, and holsters. Up till now I had been making just about everything in the various shades of tan and brown. Lately, have had a lot of request for black items. I emboss most of my stuff with custom-made CNC stamps. With all of the colored items, I'd always used antiquing to highlight the embossing. Any idea how to enhance the embossing on black leather? None of the antiquing products that I use do any good. Thanks for your help

I just bought a glue pot from Weaver. It is the type with the brush going through a cylindrical lid that I am guessing is supposed to keep the glue sealed when the brushes in place. I have been using Barge glue which is pretty pricey. Is this type of glue pot meant to store the glue long-term words this one that you fill just for the days use? I don't want to put $40 worth of glue in it and have it harden up before the next day. Using the glue out of the can with the built-in brush is kind of a pain and can be messy. Thanks for your help

That is the type clip I am looking for. I may try gluing the clipboard to the leather.

I have someone who wants to order a number of notebook covers for a standard 8.5" x 11" pad. I know how to stiffen the leather by soaking in warm water but I would like to sew something in between the leather and a lightweight lining to stiffen it. Any ideas??? Also, does anyone have any idea where to get the spring clips that hold the pad of paper in?? I may just go with a leather flap where you slide the cardboard in but I would prefer to have the clip. Thanks all

Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative to using Gum Trag to smooth out the back of unlined the leather? When I try to make small production runs, it seems like I always get a little bit on the front which messes up the dye. I use Fiebings Oil Pro. As an alternative, is there anything I can use to clean the front of the leather if I should get Gum Trag on it? I use it to finish the edges but don't have any problems since everything is already dyed and sewn.

I am new to leathercraft. I started buying mostly Tandy products. I started using their water-based dyes but very quickly became dissatisfied with the streaky results. I made the decision to go all in and switch to Fiebings Pro (oil) dye. I ordered a small container of every color they have. I know that it uses an alcohol carrier. I did order several containers of the dye reducer. My questions: 1) What is the best agent to use for cleanup whether it be hands or work surfaces? 2) I prefer to spray whenever possible. Does this need to be diluted to go through an airbrush. If so, what is the best ratio? Is there any other readily available substance that can be used to reduce this such as rubbing alcohol? 3) I always pretreated leather with Neatsfoot oil to aid in dye absorption. Is this necessary with this product? 4) How long does it take to dry and how long should you wait before you begin other work on the leather? Thanks all

Very informative video. The first mistake that I see that I'm making is I am trying to shoot from the inside of the project out rather than shooting from the perimeter. One big difference I still see is that whatever product is being used didn't immediately soak into the leather and turn gray, it remained on the surface and still looks black. Did they use some type of resist on it first? Do you know what brand or type of dye was being used? Thanks for all your help.

I have seen pictures of other people's work where the border is airbrushed in black and fades towards the center. Looks great. I tried to do it on some of my things and they don't turn out so good. I have been using Tandy's water-based dyes. The dye tends to pool up and look really gray when it dries out. I know that I am putting on a little bit too much on but that's in an effort to make it look black rather than washed out gray. I am thinking that I should probably be using a paint rather than a dye. Does anyone have any recommendations about a good product to use for this purpose. I am pretty good at using the airbrush to fade the product in.

Because the book cover slides into the pouch. I only have about 1/4” glue line to work with. I want to put my 1/4” glue line down and press it to the liner material and then trim.

High Desert CNC order Two days after I placed the order. They are every bit as good as the ones I got it AM Leathercraft. I would highly recommend either company to anyone looking for custom stamps. I will probably stick with High Desert only because of the huge difference in the shipping time. AM Leathercraft shipped fast but it still takes forever to get a shipment from Vietnam.

I find that contact cement works for most of what I do. I am looking for an adhesive that sets quick that doesn't require glue on both the surfaces. I am trying to make book covers on a small scale production level. I am cutting the leather to size and then doing the tooling and dying at the beginning. I am using light pigskin as a liner and also using it to slide the book into. I would like to be able to just put glue on the perimeter of the outer leather and just smack it down on the pigskin and then trim the pigskin to fit after the glue sets. That would save a lot of time over pre-cutting the pigskin and trying to match up the contact cement on both pieces. I have tried to use double-sided tape. It works well to keep the leather in the pigskin together long enough to do the sewing, but it does not hold up long-term. I would like to have a permanent bond between the leather and the pigskin. Any recommendations. PS. I do have a cobra sewing machine so the outer leather and the pigskin are sewn together at the end.

I find that contact cement works for most of what I do. I am looking for an adhesive that sets quick that doesn't require glue on both the surfaces. I am trying to make book covers on a small scale production level. I am cutting the leather to size and then doing the tooling and dying at the beginning. I am using light pigskin as a liner and also using it to slide the book into. I would like to be able to just put glue on the perimeter of the outer leather and just smack it down on the pigskin and then trim the pigskin to fit after the glue sets. That would save a lot of time over pre-cutting the pigskin and trying to match up the contact cement on both pieces. I have tried to use double-sided tape. It works well to keep the leather in the pigskin together long enough to do the sewing, but it does not hold up long-term. I would like to have a permanent bond between the leather and the pigskin. Any recommendations. PS. I do have a cobra sewing machine so the outer leather and the pigskin are sewn together at the end.

The stamps came in today and vastly exceeded my expectations. AM Leathercraft is the best. I ordered several from High Desert CNC Designs yesterday because he promises a quick delivery. They seem to know what they are doing.

I ordered a few from him, a month ago, but I am still waiting for delivery.

Does anybody have any recommendations for a supplier for laser cut logo stamps. The one I currently need is going to be about 1" x 4". I do have a press so I won't have to rely on a big old maul. Thanks all

Does anybody have any recommendations for a supplier for logo stamps. The one I currently need is going to be about 1" x 4". I do have a press. Thanks all