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Zac

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About Zac

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  • Location
    Australia

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Wallets and bags
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing machines
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  1. Thanks Matt and Pinto. I’m using the exact same needles so that’s good to know I can rule out that as the problem. I changed to a new needle and played with the tension with no luck. The Bobbin definitely seems to be running smoothly too. I have some M25 thread from a different brand (black the same as my problem thread) and it doesn’t have this issue at all so I used the M25 bobbin with the M20 and although there are less loops there are still loops. It’s new thread but I don’t use lubricant, so I guess that will be next thing to try. Very annoying! Hard to test too as I really need a good run to see the issue which is a massive waste of material! I’m sure I’ll get there eventually!
  2. Thanks for all the tips guys, I made some more straps tonight and using some of your advice it was much more efficient!
  3. Thanks guys, I will try glueing together before using the strap cutter. The kangaroo leather is around 1mm thick and it’s probably a case of poor user and maybe a dodgy eBay cutter. More practice should help! But either way glueing first should save a lot of time. Thanks again!
  4. Hi Everyone, I mostly make wallets but have been making the tote and backpack. I almost exclusively use veg tanned Kangaroo leather, it's a great leather and I find it gives me a bit of a point of difference to stuff from outside of Australia. For making straps I cut by hand strips (I find the leather is too thin for a strap cutter or am I just bad at using a strap cutter?), then glue, sew, sand the edges, bevel, and then burnish. The whole process is really time consuming so I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has found the best method? I use a sewing machine but everything else is done by hand, preferably I would avoid buying a heap of tools! Cheers, for any help!
  5. Hi Everyone! i hope everyone has been well. I’m having some issues with the bottom thread and inconsistent loose stitches. For reference my machine is a Seiko LCW-8BL and I am using M20 poly cotton thread and a size 22 leather needle. The bobbins are wound smoothly the thread seems to be coming off the spool ok and the it doesn’t seem to be happening with my other slightly lighter threads. I would have thought this machine would be capable of this size thread? I don’t have any larger needles but could that be the issue? Or should I just stuff around with tension a bit more? Any hot tips? Thanks again!
  6. Thanks Wiz! And just like that it was fixed!
  7. Hi everyone, another day, another sewing machine question... I’m improving and my machine is working really well - for leather. For fabric it is not as good. I know why but I’m not sure how to fix it. The foot sits about a 1mm above the needle plate so the fabric can move about when the needle is up. The feed dog holds strongly against the vibrating presser foot just not the presser foot. I’ve tried adjusting it but must be doing it wrong because I haven’t managed to change anything. Does anyone have any ideas? the machine is a Seiko LCW-8BLV Cheers, Zac IMG_3531.MOV
  8. Thanks for all the tips guys, I played with the tension disks a little and it seems to have fixed the problem. I wanted to make sure before posting hence the late reply. Thanks again! Cheers, Zac
  9. Yes and when it is going to jam I can feel the needle thread pulling in back which is why I think it is getting caught on something. Would this be possible?
  10. Sorry for being unclear. I’m trying to get a photo but of course now the machine is working perfectly! The thread jams locking up everything else. The thread creates a birdsnest on the underside. Which I then cut the bobbin thread and work the top thread out. I can feel when it is going to jam before it does because the top thread feels like it is starting to get sucked into the machine. ill try get a photo to give a better description, thanks for the help so far though!
  11. Another question proving how clueless I really am when it comes to sewing machines. I am having issues with my machine locking up on its first couple of stitches and I can’t work out why. I normally then unjam the machine and it works fine. It only ever locks up on the first 2 stitches. I have given the bobbin case a pretty good clean up and it hasn’t made any difference. It doesn’t always happen but enough to be pretty frustrating! The machine is a Seiko LCW-8BL apart from this issue starting out it works perfectly. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! It is wasting a fair bit of my time. Sorry if this has been asked before but I couldn’t find anything...
  12. Hi Alexandre, I own a Seiko LCW-8BLV which i think is similar to the machine you are looking at. As mentioned above mine was set us a synchronised binder and I had to change over the parts to make it a plain sewing machine. It was a pretty straight forward change apart from changing the feed dog mechanism I did have to get a sewing machine mechanic to help me with that. It’s sewing very well now though I mostly make wallets and bags with mine and now that it is set up properly it sews very well, even with thicker veg tan and with many layers of thin veg tan (which I had always had issues with previous to owning this machine). The largest thread I have used is metric #20 and that seems to work fine. It’s a well made Japanese machine and it’s handy I can easily jump on eBay and buy cheap feet if needed. I have no experience with the Adler so can’t compare. If you have any other questions let me know. It’s nice to be the one who can help rather than needing it for a change! Cheers, Zac
  13. A quick follow up, my new servo motor arrived yesterday afternoon so I set it up and have got it up and running. It was a very easy change over, it fit in the same spot as the old motor. Took around an hour to do the full change over. The new motor came with a 75mm pulley, my old clutch motor had a 50mm pulley so I swapped that over too. It’s very nice having a silent motor in a small apartment that in itself is almost worth the $99. It didn’t come with any manual or instructions so I have no idea what the up and down button do.. but it is a lot slower than it was and so much easier to control so no complaints from me! I’m sure some mucking around and I will figure it out.
  14. Thanks everyone I am going to give the $99 servo a go. Hopefully it does the job, I will let you know how it turns out. On the pricing between Aus and the US, there is obviously larger quantities meaning less cost but i think there is a lot of people also know they can get away with charging higher prices in Australia. At my previous job was working for a larger Australian company which sold here and also and in America and the acceptable profit margins in America was much less than what they expected here. The reasoning being that America was more competitive. The internet and online shopping is definitely making it harder for companies to do this so hopefully it will improve over time!
  15. Thanks guys. Yes that’s partly why I made this post as most are from America and the motors which are recommend in virtually every post aren’t really available here or if they are are super expensive. I don’t feel like I really need to change what I have so don’t want to spend much of do it if the cheap ones aren’t worthwhile! where did you get a larger hand wheel from dikman?
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