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NMendes

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  1. Thank you for your answer Mike, what makes the stanley better for skiving? Is that a blade matter? Don't you think i can get good results with a Lie-Nielsen? I don't have one already but i love quality tools and their n°101 is truly appealing and looks like a onetime investment. Lie-Nielsen + W1 blade or M390 should be great for skiving right? As for Stanley, how would that work with chrome tanned leather? Thanks!
  2. Hi all! I need help into making the ultimate skiving tool. Some people have successfully modified their woodworking block plane for leather skiving like here : https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/ju4kdv/a_very_sharp_block_plane_makes_for_an_excellent/ here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56645-block-plane/ and here : Lie-Nielsen 101 would make a terrific leather skiver but some work has to be made on the blade .. Here are the results of my research, this post where a guitar maker (George Wilson) talks about using woodwork block planes for chrome leather skiving, according to him, only W1 blades can do this impossible job (called T10 in its Chinese designation) https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?219830-Lie-Nielsen-A2-issue Here is a video where a mini woodworking plane using T10 blade is used for leather (that seems to work great): https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLY7EKQ5bXVhQcKmS9CTMP8ugcmyqz2_18&v=q5LUnBlD9uE And this Etsy page recommends M390 blades for their block plane : https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/531399102/flat-cuir-incurve-skiver-plane-wood?ref=landingpage_similar_listing_bot-2&pro=1&variation0=1480808566 So, for modifying a Lie-Nielsen 101 into a leather skiver, do you think sharpening their A2 blade would suffise? If yes, at which angle? Or should i ask someone to make a W1 (T10) or M390 blade specifically for the L-N 101? If so, who can accept such a task? Greetings from Paris all!
  3. And here is Dior using the "flat" technique for the folding part (@1mn00), so i guess i should not worry too much right? What do you guys think?
  4. Hi all! I'm making a leather purse similar in shape to Saint-Laurent (attached image) and i'm having trouble deciding how to properly cut/attach the leather lining, let me explain. Because of the inclined parts, the lining (3oz) when folded goes beyond the lines of the external leather, and some people for that reason "glue in curve" like here : https://www.raworkshop.art/leatherwork ( second and third project / Glass case and wallet) and here (13mn07) https://youtu.be/or1Trz-Dv1M?list=PLY7EKQ5bXVhRlg5aXktVLTHcJVn0Y_QeT&t=787 So they can know how much to trim afterward, and some just sue the 2 parts on a flat surface and fold the project at the final stage like here : https://youtu.be/2Vgkja8w0ow?t=863 What is the proper way? I'm not using glue but double tape to keep the pieces in place, the problem i have with trimming lining after folding it is that you don't have the exact measurements from the beginning so you kind of go with the flow, and that can mess with the placement of your hardwares (magnets / buttons). What if my lining and external leather have the exact same size? Will there be too much "air" between layers when folding the bag ? I hope i'm being clear, sorry in advance if the formulation is messy, i'm French.. Thank you all in advance!
  5. I just discovered the name of this type of leather : "Crinkled patent leather", like this one : https://www.brixtonbaker.com/products/michael-michael-kors-emry-large-crinkled-leather-tote Is the issue common in this type of leather or is it my particular piece? Thank you all!
  6. Thank you for your answer Lumpen! Like some said, if the piece came off so easily, the leather is not durable at all.. So i'll buy a more sturdy leather hide (horse hide), it will coast me more but way less than using a weak piece.. Thank you again all for your advices!
  7. The finish is not metallic at all, here is a thread where they talk about the exact same problem : https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/tape-damage.1803/ Quote : " This does bring up a very important subject, though. That subject is being careful with any type of adhesives around top grain leather. Depending on how the hide is finished, the top coat can peel off quite easily. I remember several years ago on one of the earlier versions of VLJ, a member mentioned going to a work/social function with his wife and they were issued adhesive name tags at the door. The guy put on the tag without a second thought. A while later after leaving the function, the guy removed the nametag off of his A-2 jacket (a Real McCoys Dubow if I remember correctly). Unfortunately he immediately noticed that the outer color layer peeled off noticeably! Leather jacket are tough articles of clothing, but that can be damaged with adhesives or sharp objects with surprising ease." It seems like a common issue..
  8. Thank you for your answers! @HaloJones : I'm thinking of using natural conditionner like Coconut oil or Beeswax instead of gluing, i'll run some tests today and will let you know! @ChiefJason : Oh yes it is genuine leather, and not a cheap one.. I bought it from a renown retailer here in Paris who sells "A" quality hides by "Tannerie Haas" (Hermès suppliers), it is a 2,5oz Calf skin and the damage is way less pronounced than what you see in the pictures.. Here is the bag i'm making so you can see how the leather really looks like (still a work in progress) .. What do you think about my natural conditionner solution?
  9. The aesthetic aspect is of little concern to me, i am mostly worried about reinforcing the damaged surface to prevent it from widening, what would you do in my situation? Thanks al!!
  10. Hi there! I'm new to Leather crafting and even if i've spent hours and days and weeks learning about the craft before starting my firsts project, i missed this tiny "costly" information.. I started a bag and while making my closing system yesterday i made a mistake that damaged the leather... I taped the top of the bag to hold a piece, two tiny pieces of the varnished surface were torn off when I removed the adhesive tape, they measure about 4mmx2mm . What should i do? Maybe glue them back together? If yes, which glue would be suitable? Or maybe do you see a better solution? Pictures of the damaged surface are attached to this message, i wish someone told me about "Never using tape on leather" before.. Thanks in advance and all the best!
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