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I have an Artisan Toro 3200 Leather Sewing Machine I am looking to sell. Its too much machine for me im looking for something that sews a bit thinner weight and smaller thread. This is a Juki 441 style machine, so nearly exactly similar to a Cobra Class 4, a Cowboy 4400, or Juki 441. This machine is made by Artisan, which is in northern Cali, so any parts etc. are a quick ship away on the west coast, and they are super informative etc. if you have a question. It has a long cylinder arm for sewing bags, etc, and it comes with a flatbed for sewing leather flat - the flatbed table is super high quality, brand new, and custom milled/made for the machine. I purchased the machine 2 years ago in decent shape in southern oregon. I only had one issue, which was a stuck timing screw. I eventually hired a sewing machine technician in bend and between us we managed to get it unstuck and get it all synced up and ready, no other issues. Comes with a couple hundred in accessories - several kinds of walking feet, one from UWE, and the flatbed table from UWE as well. Anyways, if youre interested please PM me or comment. I dont have a truck so I can't meet you anywhere or bring it to you, sorry about that. I am in Bend, Oregon.

Thanks guys, and thank you cowboy bob, that seemed to be it. i couldn’t find that screw near me so I ordered one from Chester at artisan in north California, it’s near to me and they are pretty quick to ship so it should be here soon. in the meantime I am happy to say that the machine is now timed properly and bulletproof (as far as I can tell) in reverse and forward. I found a sewing machine mechanic in my area and he helped me tonight get it working. the only challenge past the missing set screw was that even with the set screw removed, and the other two screws loosed/removed, that shaft did not want to turn at all. It took awhile and a lot of gentle nudging/pressure, and some heat, to work it loose. After that it was easy sailing. im pretty sure that whoever owned this machine before did that adjustment themselves and did a poor job of it. I also think they used too strong a strength of lock-tight and some got into the shaft. last thing I’ll need to work out tomorrow is that the presser feet are not feeding the material through correctly. I get some forward motion and then I get a near equal amount of back motion, so the stitch length is very short even with the handle dialed all the way up or all the way down. but I’m not going to sew with it until I get that set screw to lock the shaft in place. Yeah that surprised me too.

Update: thank you everyone for the advice. I was (actually, my wife was) able to find a professional sewing machine repair guy in our city. After trying to work around it the stick screw it became necessary to remove it. after working the day with a carbide drill bit, a lot of patience and various extractors, it came free! so now I need to replace the screw with the same length and thread size. Not to keep blasting the forum with questions but does anyone know where I can find that info? after I get it replaced hopefully it’s just a matter of timing and adjustment. I also ordered brand new needles just to be sure, and new bonded nylon thread.

yeah, I've tried a couple different ones just to be sure. Thanks for your help BTW, its really appreciated.

Thanks cowboyBob. I followed these instructions and yours for timing to a T, and now it fails to pick up any stitches in reverse or forward. The thread very reliably twists away from the hook.

Update: i put the machine back together and I gave cowboybobs Timing method a try instead of the video. I am curious about one thing. My shuttle/hook has a bit of back/forth play, maybe 1-1.5mm. When I align the hook to the needle when the needle is at a 5.5mm rise, so I align it to the backward (counterclockwise) play, or the forward (clockwise) play? If the shuttle/hook should have no play, is there a screw somewhere I can tighten to stop it? Either way, the timing is better. Its bulletproof in forward for sure. In reverse I still get missed stitches, although now sometimes I can string together 20-30 reverse stitches before a missed stitch. One missed stitch means they all miss after that point. Sometimes it’s only 3-4 reverse stitches before I start skipping, but it’s a definite improvement. on the skipped reverse stitches, I have stopped the machine, opened the front cylinder arm cover, and taken a look at what’s happening. The best I can tell, the thread develops a twist, sort of a counter twist. Like if you held a piece of thread between your thumb and index finger in both hands and twisted the thread in opposite directions until the thread opened up into its three different strands. When this happens the loop forming, the loop that the hook will grab, twists away from the path of the hook. the hook misses, and then I start to miss stitches. Sometimes it will catch 1 or 2 of the strands, which causes the thread to separate and rip on the bobbin shuttle. I know nothing about these machines, but I have three theories that are all probably wrong: 1: Tension. I have tried a lot of thread tension settings. Right now, using 207 nylon bonded thread, the thread is just loose enough on the bobbin and the main thread that I can pull the leather away from the machine with a mild pull. I get stitches in the middle, no knots or loops visible or happening on either side. that said, I don’t know how sensitive these machines are to tension. If the tension is bad, maybe it’s causing the thread to unravel on reverse stitches when the loop for the hook is being formed. 2: The hook distance from the needle. If I am not mistaken, there is an adjustment for how far the hook is from the needle. If my hook was closer, even when the thread twisted, the thread loop might still catch. The distance right now between the hook and needle is really small, but maybe this distance is very finicky. 3: The thread. The thread I have is of an indeterminate age, since I got it with the machine. For sure it’s 1+ year old, but could and probably is a bit older. Does bonded nylon thread have a shelf life? Would old thread be causing that kind of issue? I have also noticed quite a bit of either wax residue or thread fiber building up on the various loops and eyes along the thread channel, I’m not sure if this is an indication of anything.

I have. After I originally did the timing just up through the hook timing step (stopping before this new step). After preforming this step, for reasons I will explain below, my hook timing was well off, and I wasn't getting any stitches. At this point I figured I would time it by eye, by threading the machine and watching the loop form and timing the hook myself. After I I did this my stitches were fine in forward, good tension as well, stitch in the middle of the leather, but I was getting dropped stitched in reverse. I Took a look while it was sewing and the hook timing was definitely off going in reverse. I didn't, and still dont, understand the timing video, which is why I was going over it again. You'll notice in the video, during the step that cowboybob was talking about for the hook timing, that he unscrews a bolt in the lower front window, locks the wheel with an eraser, then positions the hook. But then, because of where the bolt is in relation to the wheel, in order to re-tighten the bolt he has to move the wheel to make the bolt accessible. He takes out the eraser, turns the wheel so that he has access to the bolt again. Doing this would ruin the relation he showed for where the hook should be vs. the angle he set the wheel too. He doesn't show how or why repositioning the bolt by turning the wheel works, since off camera away from view it's not turning the hook with it, so to me it seems like at this step either I am missing something, or he is totally getting the hook out of sync with where he orginally placed it on the wheel angle. Anyways, thats why I was trying to follow the process all the way through, to hope to understand the timing better. Because I know this: If I position the hook the way its done in the video, my hook timing is well off.

So just to double check with you, I did the adjustment you are talking about first, following along with the video. The instruction was to set the handwheel to a particular degree, then adjust the position of the hook so that it is only just peeking out. Then, per the video, I am adjusting that #2 screw. That #2 screw is the screw that broke off. I feel like im missing something from your post, but I dont know enough about the machine to know what. I was just trying to follow the timing adjustment video when this happened.

So wait, you’re telling me that the timing/tuning video is incorrect? I see the diagram at the bottom of your page showing the exact spot I’m adjusting. Shoot...

Thanks guys! i bought a couple types of extractors unfortunately none of them can get purchase, so all my efforts have come to moot. and while the idea of removing the shaft has crossed my mind, it’s impractical. With the part that is stuck in place, I cannot remove the shaft either direction even if I managed to completely disassemble it. I’d have to cut the shaft off on both sides of the stuck part in order to remove it through the upper rear window, and I don’t have that inclination, time, or mechanical fortitude. out of curiosity, what do you guys think a machine in this condition is worth? I’m considering washing my hands and buying a new machine.

Missed stitches in reverse. The first 2-4 are usually okay but then it starts dropping them. When doing the step for adjusting shuttle/hook timing though I can see that it’s quite a bit off

Not sure why it would be reverse, it’s perpendicular to the prop shaft. If anyone has experience with it though I’d be all ears The guy in this video turns it left:

Tried some t b weld yesterday trying to cold weld a piece of metal to the screw, but it sheared off almost instantly trying to turn it today, so I’m at a loss as to what to do with the machine. Might just be junk at this point, any ideas?

So, new to the forum but been lurking for a long time. I recently purchased a second hand juju 441 clone, it’s an artisan toro 3200. After working with it for awhile I noticed it had some timing issues, mainly in reverse, so I started to follow the cowboy 4500 timing adjustment video. To adjust the “needle to timing position“ I accessed three screws through the upper-rear inspection cover. The first two major screws were tough but came loose. There is a third smaller screw that requires a smaller Allen wrench, it’s listed in the manual on page 12 as figure 6: http://www.artisansew.com/pdf/manuals/TORO_30_32_40_BT_manual.pdf that screw was crazy tight, and my Allen wrench tip broke off deep inside. I could no longer turn it by wrench. after trying everything I could think of, I made the decision to cut a channel in the screw, then use a flathead inserted into the new channel to turn the screw, and just get a replacement. unfortunately the screw was tighter than the pressure applied, and both sides of the channel sheared off the screw, leaving the screw flush with the housing. I cannot get it out now. There isn’t enough head even if I had a welder to weld something to it. so what are my options from here? Anyone know how difficult it is to remove the shaft that runs horizontally from the hand wheel to the front of the machine? Is it even possible and are they available to purchase? Anyways, glad to be a part of the forums finally, albeit wish it weren’t for this reason. Thanks to anyone who can offer advice.