Chelan

Speaking if timing....this is perfect. I was pining for the old days when Gunnar made a few of the aftermarket sails for our particular brand of Ultralights! Beautiful, beautiful workmanship. In fact, we still have one that is being used and it is still in great shape. It even has his sailmaker tag on it. No, getting fabric from D-P was never a problem. In fact, they were willing to let me purchase some short rolls from them a year or so ago. As long as I could hit a minimum. If not, I can buy their material through a reseller like Sailrite. Dimension-Polyant is wonderful material to work with for our particular product. BTW: I am getting real close with the timing and hope to start sewing panels together shortly. I've gotten some excellent, helpful hints from this forum!

Yes, that is a replacement sail for an ultralight. All the good sailmakers for these flying machines have either retired or died, and the sailboat sail makers won't touch them due to liability. Thus, I decided to learn to sew and this was my first attempt. And, yes, I have thought about getting the 3 point cam for my 146, but the price is pretty steep...if you can find them. And, knowing Consew, I doubt there is even the briefest of instructions about how to install and tune the new system. For now, I will just run two rows of stitching side by side when I join large panels together. You can barely see an example of that between the orange and yellow panels. With your guidance and picture, I gave it another go at timing my Consew yesterday. I started off by using a zig zag width closer to what I may actually be using in practice and then (kinda) followed the instructions. The ensuing results were satisfactory, if not good. I got the tension right about where I want it and ran several test stitches until I got fairly comfortable with this machine. Since I can't use any sort of edge guide on most of what I do, I pick a spot on the foot and visually reference that as I sew along. I just need to do some more testing to find out where that spot is on this machine.

Nylon Rigging: Yes, I am the one who picked up the Craigslisted 146 about a month ago. It was just a stroke of luck that, on a whim, I looked on Craigslist for the 146 knowing that I couldn't afford a new one (nor could I justify it). When I saw this one on Craigslist and looked at the photos, it almost seemed too good to be true. So, I took a chance, drove down to Seattle from Camano Island--during rush hour--and it was, indeed too good, but it was true. It looked like it had hardly ever been used. Bought it on the spot because they said another person was thinking of coming to look at it that next Monday (maybe you?). I will take your suggestions and see if I can get the balance wheel to turn more easily. I know the feed dogs are centered properly on the needle plate and I don't hear anything rubbing anywhere. Thanks again for the suggestions. Chrisash: Thank you for the comments. I have tried timing the hook/needle using needle sizes 18-20, with the same unsuccessful results (so far). I have had good success using the #18 needles with V92 and, as long as I can easily thread the needle, I prefer the smaller size. Even though it is negligible, my mind tells me that punching smaller holes is better than big holes. I do have some size 19 needles, so maybe I will throw that into the mix as well. When I get to the point of sewing really long seams--10 feet and beyond (see attached photo)--or if I am sewing many layers of material at a time, I will sometimes switch to the larger, size 20 needle as it seems to deflect less when I have less control over what I am pushing through the machine. BTW: I usually try to time the hook depending on what size needle I am using. Maybe what I will do the next time I attempt to time the hook is to start off using a size 18 needle. With that setting, I will test again, but insert the #19, then the #20 just to see if I get better results. If the timing gives me better results with the larger size needles, it may indicate what my next adjustment should be....or, if I should just stick with the larger needle and call it a day!

Hello Nylon Rigging: Thank you so much for the further explanation and the photo! In fact, I just finished printing it out and will put it with my "manual." I have to agree with you: The illustrations in the owner's manual are probably worse than what I could draw and the saddest thing about this all is that this is the same instruction manual you will get (maybe) with any of the Consew 146 RB machines you can buy today! Come on, Consew...get with the program. Unfortunately, I only have one, complete bobbin assembly (the part that the bobbin and bobbin holder sit into and contains the hook), but spare bobbin holders and bobbins (of course). I even bought a few of the M size Hembobs to save me some time. Anytime I take apart something like this, I usually do it inside a baking pan so in case I drop a screw... O.K. I was up at the sail loft yesterday and spent quite a bit of time replacing a couple of things on my table--new drawer and a new treadle peddle. The new drawer is a total pce o'crap and the new pedal is barely acceptable. Waste of time. Then, I got into the timing of the hook. Unfortunately, I started off by using the Instructions I took off Sailrites Professional sewing machine, which is fairly close to Consew 146. Getting to the screws that hold the hook assembly to the shaft was a major pain and things kept shifting. When completed with the timing, things were going fairly well, although it took me 5 or 6 rotations to hook the bobbin thread. About the time I was satisfied with my zig zag stitches and ready to get to work, I started to miss a stitch here and there; always on the right down stroke. Needless to say, I need to give the timing another go. This time, I am going to start with the Consew instructions and, now that you have explained the parts better than the manual. If that doesn't work, I will just go back to doing 'my thing' which seemed to work with my Consew 99 as well as the Pfaff 138. On a bright note, I did discover that the needle bar does have timing marks located on the shaft and those do seem to be accurate, as does the needle bar height itself. I was also able to better 'mesh' the feed dog and the outer presser foot.. One last question (for now): I find that it takes a lot more umph to turn the balance wheel on this Consew 146 than it does on any of my other non-walking foot sewing machines. Is this just a function of it being a walking foot sewing machine, or am I missing something? My 146 is in pristine condition and I have even gone through and oiled every single thing that is supposed to be oiled and I have checked to make sure all the gears are greased as required. This thing has been beautifully maintained. I just can't get the dang hook-needle timing done correctly. ARRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHH! Thanks again for the help. Best regards, Chelan

Thank you, Nylon Rigging!. I have these illustrations in one of the manuals I downloaded, but your explanations help a lot. I will be giving the hook timing another go (along with proper alignment of the inner and outer presser feet) on Saturday or Sunday. I might be able to guess, but what is the Hook Jib? The hand drawing leaves a little bit to be desired... Chelan

Hello TT: That's exactly what I am running into: The old manual (actually the old, new, new-old) manual is hard to decipher on many topics. It sounds like you understood it about as well as I did...and I have experience with other Consew sewing machines! Apparently Consew figures the timing should be so intuitive--no matter the skill level of the owner--that few instructions are needed. I'd like to know: Do you time the hook/needle with the zig-zag set to the widest stitch or the width of stitch most likely to be used; should it be timed with the needle fully to the left or to the right? I am sure I will be able to figure it out through much trial and error, but what a pain. As I mentioned before, I got no help from Consew. Now, on a bright note, I do find that Sailrite has a very good manual for their Professional Sewing Machine which looks very similar to my Consew 146 RB. I am going to make some adjustments based on their manual and see what happens. There is nothing to lose at this point. I do appreciate your response!

Note: I apologize for wasting anyone's time if this topic has already been covered. I did a general search, but did not get any specific results. Background: I recently purchased a Consew 146 RB-A1 from a company that repairs high end outdoor gear. The machine looks brand new, ran like a dream during demo and was at a price I couldn't pass up. It was one of the ones built in Japan. I replaced the clutch motor with the Sailrite Workhorse servo motor, changed out the thread to V92 and the needle to a #18 for the sail work I will be doing. Questions: 1. The balance wheel is small in diameter and I find that it takes quite a bit more 'umph' to rotate it (compared to my non walking foot machines) when I go to raise the needle bar. I don't hear anything binding, nor does it matter if I have the belt to the motor on or off. Is it just a function of this being a walking foot machine and it just takes a bit more to move the lever arms and whatever else? Or, is there something I need to loosen? 2. In setting up the tension, I am real close, but I do sometimes miss a stitch. I also have more luck picking up the bobbin thread when the needle moves to the left position (zig zag) and less at the right position. I wanted to make sure I was adjusting the timing between the hook and needle properly, but there is a woeful lack of instructions (or hard to understand instructions) in the archaic Consew 146 manual. Email messages to Consew go unanswered. Is there anyone out there who can give me good, clear instructions for setting the hook timing on this particular machine? And, has anyone found an actual manual for the 146 RB that might have been updated since it was first printed in the 1960's or 70's? Heck, they still sell this machine. Thank you. Paul Denny

NylonRigging: You were right on the money with what to look for on my 'non-releasing' tension disks. I found that small screw that holds the tensioner assembly just to the right of it. Of course, this was after locating the screw which had been covered up by a tiny pce. of masking tape I used when I was repainting the body of the machine. Anyway, I pulled the assembly to check the tension release pin and guess what? No tension release pin. However, when I purchased the used Consew 99, the previous owner had included a zip lock bag filled with spare bobbins, small screws, another foot or two and other odds 'n ends. When I examined the contents later, there was this short pin, about the size of an 18 gauge brad nail with one end squashed. No idea what it was for, but for certain if I threw it away, it would come back to haunt me. Now, I am not sure if it is/was the tension release pin, but it seems to fit and it works perfectly. Also a big thank you to whomever posted the photos of the knee lift arm and how it should be set up. The main axle of the knee lift assembly was positioned about 1" too far to the right side cut out. I repositioned it and it seems to be working just fine now. I had a happy day of sewing yesterday with the improvements. Thank you all.

Wow! Just one more benefit of signing up for this forum. You'd think there would have to be something up here in the Seattle area that would have some of these things. I have been to the ParaGear website before in my search for harness hardware and they have a ton of great stuff. I am looking forward to this weekend when I can go up to the sail loft (converted hangar) and work with my sewing machine. Be safe and enjoy the holiday weekend! Best regards, Paul

You are a 'bad' (good) influence, Don, hah! Thanks for the tip on locating leather I could get for a decent price and then learn to sew on. I do need to finish my ultralight sails first before I get into a new project, but it does get me thinking. Right now, neither of my sewing machines is giving me what I might call a good straight stitch. Even adjusting the zig zag width to '0', I still see a back and forth movement (vibration) of the needle of about 1mm plus (photos below). I have been meaning to correct this, but my manual is so poorly printed that the illustrations are so dark I can't see what screws or parts the arrows are pointing to. On top of that, I still need to fix the foot lift and get my the tensioner disks to release once the foot is raised. A quick question, though: For the lighter weight leather, do you have a needle size and point style that I should consider? Standard thread size for lighter weight material? I am using both V69 and 92 currently for my sails and Sunbrella projects. Thank you.

All great advice! Thank you so much for the quick replies. The tensioner set up on the Consew 99 is fairly simple and, after looking at the schematic for this machine, it may come down to it just needing a good cleaning and adjustment of the parts. Or, it could be as simple as a bad/broken/out of adjustment tension releasing pin that a couple of you alluded to. I am having the best time learning to work with these machines, but the more I learn, the less I know. And, of course, I keep thinking "If I only had a sewing machine with a larger bobbin...if I had a sewing machine with a walking foot...and on and on. Good idea about grabbing up some thin leather to try out with my machine. A tool roll would be a perfect project.

Problem: The tensioning disks on my Consew 99 do not seem to be 'relaxing' (releasing?) when I lift the presser foot, either by the hand lever or with the knee lift. It doesn't cause a problem with my working thread tension, but it does make it a bit harder to pull my work out from under the needle bar at the end of a stitch row. Could someone give me advice on how to trouble shoot this? By the way, I wanted to thank the forum members for the previous tips on adjusting the knee lift on a Consew 206. I think my problem is simply the location of the knee lifter bar. The measured diagram is going to help. I recently joined this forum because everyone seems so dang knowledgeable and the advice given has really helped me learn more about my current machines (Consew 99 and Pfaff 138). I have not gotten into leather just yet (that sounds a bit strange...), but as a NOOB, my focus has been on sewing a sail for my ultralight. Most of my time over the last year or so has been spent on cleaning up/refurbishing the two machines I have and learning to sew a somewhat straight, consistent zig zag. Enough of the background. Thank you. Chelan